Isla de la Ballestas

Muster time for the boat to Isla de la Ballestas was 07-45, for an 08-00 departure. In typical South American style we left at 09-00 after so much faffing about, queue at the pier, buy a S/.1 (20pence) 'tax ticket, wait at the root of the pier to have your ticket ripped in half, wait for a life jacket, set sail, return to berth as someone hadn't put their passport number on the manifest, finally get underway! First stop was about 200 meters off-shore, as part of the 75 strong pod of Bottle-nose Dolphins put in an appearance, quite a show even if you have seen them a thousand times before. Then, 20 minutes at seriously high speed to view the Candelabra etched, no-one when, in a high sand dune. It is generally termed the Candelabra but there are a number of theories as to what it really is. If you follow this concept, it's Masonic, while others say a shrouded sign post left by pirates. Or, and the one I like best, a cactus left by indigenous Indians, as their Chief's were given to drinking vast quantities of the juice having a hallucinatory effect which gave them inspiration as to how the community should be run - Ken Kesey eat your heart out!

Finally, we hit top gear again for the 40 minutes to the islands. No landing is allowed for the tourist, the only human activity being by the 'Guano Gatherers', as they still 'crop' the islands for bird dropping as they have for centuries. Nowadays, none of this precious fertiliser is used locally, as the price is prohibitive. Instead the govenment, well aware this is arguably the best manure in the world, only sell to the highest bidder.Along with salt and fish products this (as well as tourism) is the areas highest revenue.

Now I'm sure our regular reader (sic) is sick to death of hearing how it was the last time I was here, but againit has to be said that the bird populations appear to have dwindled dramatically. I remember observing to the Captain on that last visit how black the lava looked from a distance, and he pointing out that it was in fact Cormorants. In the region of 4 million it was estimated, but a decade earlier the number had been nearer 40 million. This time, gone was that black slick, in fact the only adult Guanay Cormorants seen were a few in flight, while juveniles, still reliant on parent birds, were also thin on the ground. It seemed the same for all of the species except Humboldt's Penguin, which were everywhere and breeding seemed to be going well. As well as this being an addition to the Trip List, a single Sooty Shearwater was also seen but with no chance of a photograph.By 11-00 we were back alongside, after what was, despite the moans {observations}, an excellent trip. When we left the sky was completely covered and a cooling breeze was coming in off the sea. Now, it is like an inferno, hence me sitting here doing this, with the temperature somewhere close to 90F. Unfortunately, I have been unable to 'log on' in the hostel even though they have the Internet, so once again this is done on Note Pad to be transferred when I get down to the Cafe later. Tomorrow, I plan to move on and get withing crossing distance of the Chilean border, so that means either Arequipa or Tacna, if I stay in Peru, or maybe even get as far as Arica, we'll see!

As soon as I saw the sign I knew it would be 'home from home' - fits like a glove!

The hacienda until manana.

Candelabra, Masonic Sign, Cactus, Pirate's GPS - the choice is yours.

Ballestas Islands from a distance

Tourist boats in the sea arch.

Guanay Cormorant (adult)

Guanay Cormorant (juvenile with adult)

Guanay Cormorant (adult)

Ballestas Islands

Ditto

Guano loading ramp
Ditto on the next island.

From another angle.

Peruvian Booby (adult)

Ditto

Peruvian Booby (flying juvenile)

Humboldt's Penguin (adult)

Humboldt's Penguin (adult completing moult) I'm told they moult every year, the process taking up to 17 days during which time they stay ashore, so by definition don't feed.

Humboldt's Penguin (juvenile)

Paradise Lost??

The bus strike was indeed over, so a 50p Tuk Tuk ride got me to the Terminal Terrestrial and soon on my way to Lima. Not the most beautiful city in the world, and may probably qualify as the worst, but luck again was on my side. The manager at the bus depot spoke fluent English, and recommended I take the 1st Class service to Paracas. The plan had been to center myself on Pisco, but Paracas is where any wildlife action is so was glad to be advised. The seats may have been comfortable, but that was about all. First there was a safety brief, in both Spanish and English, that lasted a full half hour. This was followed by another 30 minutes of trailers for up-coming films, and finally a movie featuring homosexual American firemen, all at the loudest volume available. I asked the steward to turn it down, which he said would make it inaudible to those upstairs, but did a bit, and despite my ear-plugs it was a nightmare throughout. It's back to the 'chicken buses' for this kid!

Regardless, I got to Paracas at 18-00 (the 4 hours programmed) and within 15 minutes had check-in to a hostel, arranged a desert tour for today, and the boat trip to the Balastas Islands tomorrow. In addition I very nearly updated yesterdays post, but the god's just weren't with me on that one. Unable to get 'on-line' with the lap top, I resorted to using the hostels link and equipment, but that meant getting a means to transfer the photographs from my LT to their computer. With no memory stick, a disc was all that was available, but after the effort of up-loading their drive wouldn't read my disc.

On to today. At 06-00 I was once again on the fore-shore, where much had changed since my last visit. There was always a Km of sand to which the holiday makers stuck, and then for the rest of the bay it was a craggy rock coast-line. Now I find a huge hotel has been built at the end of the sand, with officially no access to the likes of me, then there are 'holiday homes' for about a mile. Unfortunately, these have been built almost to the 'high water mark' and much of the rubble has been piled on top of the existing natural rocks. This seems to have reduced the number of birds to 'a tenth' of what we experienced here before, so who knows where the Aves have gone. I guess another part of Paradise lost?

After a decent breakfast, all in with the £10's per night, I went on a 'Grockle' Tour to the Paracas National Nature Reserve, which is almost completely desert. Having said that, much of it is very interesting and given we had a good guide the day and the money were well spent. The peninsular that makes up the reserve is surrounded by sea on 3 sides, and once you reach the ocean, you also reach the birds. There were many 'thousands' at various points including Elegant, Royal and Sandwich Terns, 4 species of Gull, lots of Peruvian Pelicans and Booby plus a large colony of Inca Terns. The only addition to the Trip List only was Guanay Cormorant, which was photographed from a distance, but also caught up with photographing a 'whole' Black Oystercatcher. By far the best sight, was watching a car full of hooligans taking a 'short cut' across what looked like pristine desert, but fortunately for the onlookers it was quicksand. 'Quick' was the by-word as in what seemed like seconds the car was immersed to half way up the door panels, so all in all a very good day.

Re-acquainted with the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow, which, despite its ubiqitousness has been absent for several days.

I just couldn't help adding this fine

adult Grey Gull

Prawn to Spotted Sand - Check Mate (for one of them) I think?

It'll be many a day before an Oystercatcher chisels a limpet off one of these building bricks!

Peruvian Pelicans on the Pier

Royal Tern

Just a small proportion of the birds that used to be here!

Yes, it was those 'fishermen' that flushed the flock.

Paracas seen from the hill.

The Independence Tower, supposedly depicting the colours of the national flag. I'm sure the flag's maroon each side and white down the center?

The so called Cathedral Rock, which was the epicenter of the recent earthquake at 8.3 on the Richter Scale.

The coast looking north

Peruvian Booby Colony

Inca Tern Colony

Black Oystercatcher

Peruvian Pelican

Peruvian Booby (detail head shot)

Hey Honeychild, get you beak outa ma Pot Mess!

Off Again - Heading South

It would seem the bus strike is over, at least from the number of coaches now back on the road there is a good chance of getting away later today. The aim is to get to Pisco, which includes Paracas just down the road, and maybe a few more sea-birds. Paracas is the port where the boats run to the Isla de la Ballastas, and know from past experience how good they can be. Also I remember the Pisco Sours, that seem inoquous enough, but just 3 or 4 and your away, aren't you Mike?

So, enough of this rambling and let's get on the road. Hope I'm writing next time from where I've said.

Side by Side - Ornithology & Archaeology

Charles el Taxi was absolutely right when he described Alburfera de Media Mundo as being 'alive with birds'. However, his suggested boat ride to the end of the Laguna and back wasn't all it might have been on a good day. Probably I have got so used to seeing so many birds, and wildlife in general, that when it's a bit quiet I start getting one on? We followed a similar plan as yesterday and drove the full length of the lake and more or less the first species we clapped eyes on was an addition to the trip list, but unlikely to be seen at Radipole, Ruddy Duck. Despite my vast and often travels in all of the America's, this is the first time I have recorded this beautiful little duck outside of the UK. The second was even more welcome as a pair of Red Shoveler past by but too far away for a decent photo. According to the book these would be well to the north of their usual range, and as I've said before it's not the best guide in the world, and I doubt even I could cock-up that bill. This was the only 'lifer' of the day, but there were other additions to the 'trip list' such as Great Grebe, White-tufted Grebe and Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant. Of the latter, so many birders seem to rave over this one, but while it would be wrong to call it dowdy, there are far more spectacular birds in the world deserving of the name.

The 14 years old Oarsman who pulled his little heart out.

Neotropic or Olivacious Cormorant in 'breeding plumage'.

Three shots of

Great Grebe

showing signs of mating.

Most of the birds mentioned above were seen from the rowing boat which took me over a good proportion of the lake, and initially pulled by a wiry, strong looking adult man. However, he only rowed across the lake, which I have to say reminded me so much of rowing across the Fleet, and then handed the oars to a 14 year old lad. This in turn led me to think of my older grandson Lee, who will be 14 this very year. With no disrespect meant I couldn't see him pulling a boat across the Fleet let alone what this child did. For 3 and a half hour, without a stop, he just kept going and didn't even get short of breath, and while I rarely tip anyone, this was an occasion to waive the rule! On the way back, it started to get hard going especially with the wind, on the bow, freshening so I took the opportunity to climb ashore at a convenient slipway. The moment I reach the rough road a Short-eared Owl flew past quartering the reeds in search of prey. Looking beyond that and to the sea, there were literally 1,000's of Pelicans (both Brown and Peruvian) with a whole mix of sea-birds which were next to be investigated.

These were just some of the scenes down at the sea shore, in this picture there are to my knowledge, Semipalmated Sandpiper (you'll have to take my word for that), Hudsonian Whimbrel, American Oystercatcher, Franklin's, Grey and Belcher's Gulls, Royal, Sandwich & Elegant Terns, Black Skimmer and Neotropic Cormorant.

Somebody, no names no pack-drill, stepped a little too close, 'putting up' mainly Franklin's and the Skimmers.

Black Skimmer with damaged wing, it could fly (see below) but only just.

See!

Lists Update

RUDDY DUCK

RED SHOVELER*

GREAT GREBE

WHITE-TUFTED GREBE

SHORT-EARED OWL

MANY-COLOURED RUSH-TYRANT

Trip Species Total - 792 Lifers - 523

Bandurria

When was the last time you had a thoroughly interesting afternoon for £4.17p, including an ancient monument older than the Egyptian Pyramids, Chichan Itza and the Great Wall of China? I have just returned from Bandurria, which was in fact £4.20 but you've got to get a bit of discount haven't you? To start with there was a 10Km taxi ride to the site (plus of course the return), no entry fee and a compulsory guide. For years, in fact 4,500, Caral just a few miles north of Huacho was thought to be the oldest settlement not only in Peru, but on the whole Sub-Continent. That is until recently when archeologists started investigating this site, finding clothing, fishing gear and household items thought to well out-date the neighboring village.

By no means on the scale of other ancient sites, this tiny village gave me quite a buzz, as the oldest in the land.

The 'Lagoon', main water supply for the settlement, looking to the north.

Like the Fleet, a watercourse where fresh and salt waters meet, looking south.

Central Colonnade

Plaza Circular. These people who pre-dated the Inca by about 3,000 years were Sol and Lunar worshipers.

Haveing said that, evidence of 'human sacrifice' has been found at this site.

Afternoon at The Plaza

The plinth where once stood one of eight pyramids.