BFB Revisited

It's easy to tell when you have to leave, just look out of the window and the rain has stopped, the sky is blue and there's a 'pager' message to say a Great Bustard has just landed down the road. Anyway, it is time to go and as I said yesterday we have had a most comfortable stay in what I would suggest will suit particularly all the 'birders' I know. I have learned that this is not classified a hotel, but more a retreat for quite, gentle people. Originally built as a 'quiet sanctuary' for a religious group the hospitality was extended to those pursuing such interests as yoga etc and now open to all comers. Strictly a none profit making concern, the reigns are still held by the 'fathers' but run under management. A few more photos follow to further emphasise the accommodation. Those wishing to make contact, it is Altmoisa, Kulalistemaja (www.altmoisa.ee).

A last minute update:- Ille has just paid the bill, and the total cost for the 2 of us, breakfast, dinner, endless coffee and bike hire E201 for 3 days. Add to this a complimentary bottle of wine, and I think we have done very well.

One of 2 large suites, spacious while well appointed

The same room, different angle

8 other rooms comprise twin bed facilities

While there are 2 other rtooms with double beds

All walls were hand painted by the students at the Tartu Art College

Hoist by your own Petard
I have another 'follower' joined the readership. Previously described through these pages as Big Fat Billy, I had no idea he would join the ranks so had no fear of doing so. Last time similar utterance were made in Belize, there were threats of someone ending up in the lake. Jim the Medic must have passed on the 'link', so I now have to point out that I didn't know at the time how to spell Skinny, Good Looking, Effervescent Billy. These days he is more widely known as Billy Crumble, so dubbed after an outburst of song in Waldo's Night Club, El Salvador, when to the tune of Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer he warbled "Rhubarb and Custard Crumble". It was funny at the time. If your 'logging on' old mate, all the very best to you and it would be fantastic to hook-up at some time - talk to the real Fat Kid!

So, here's a few memory jerkers for you son! Remember when your old dad used to take you on holiday with that little bucket and spade??

The Skinny Nipper - Chichen Itza, Mexico

Relaxing (again) in Belize

Belize / Guatemala border, first sighting of Oscillated Turkey

Mi Laddo - Twin Pyramids, Tikal - Guatemala

Chichicastenango - Guatemala, where Pagan meets Christianity

Two-toed Sloth - Nicaragua

Vulcan Arenal - Costa Rica

A bit of a cruise - Honduras

Three-wattled Bellbird - Costa Rica

Billy @ Panama Canal

Probably the most incredible engineering fete in the World?

Three-toed Sloth - Pipeline Road, Panama

Bet you never forget this day in Panama City with Charlie Anderson (bass player with the Ska band Selector) and family?

Estonian Language Unit One

The exceptional news this morning is that our suspicions of yesterday were confirmed as we placed a 'tick' against Great Snipe on the World List. Yesterdays sighting was brief, but there was just something about this bird in flight which wasn't Common. Fortunately, the hotel manager had introduced us to Kari, a birder from Finland, who agreed he had seen one or two in the marsh opposite the hotel and on our escorted visit early this morning, clinched it! Then came the bad news. We returned for a hearty breakfast, and the rain started At the time of writing (11-30 Estonian) it's still pissipertating (sic) down and looks nothing like clearing, but our plans are set, should we get lucky, the bikes, maps and directions are ready so we're ready to go.

So far the Estonian List has increased by 8 species* and this trip list is as follows:- (in Tallinn) Feral Pigeon, Wood Pigeon, Jackdaw, Hooded Crow, House Sparrow, Herring Gull, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Blackbird (en-Route to Altmoisa) Mute Swan, Jay (Haapsalu) Chaffinch, Barnacle Goose*, Goosander*, Gadwall*, Cormorant, Grey Heron, Wigeon*, Mallard, Black-headed Gull, Goldeneye*, Tree Sparrow, Coot, Coal Tit, Waxwing* (Altmoisa) Fieldfare*, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Goldfinch, Magpie and Great Snipe*.

Hooded Crow - Tallinn
Herring Gull (Larus argentatus argentatus) - Tallinn

While there is absolutely NO intention of bringing smut or profanities to these pages, here is one that we believe to be unmissable, in the surety that our readers will take it in good heart. In my endless endeavor to learn the Estonian language, I consulted my learned friend Dr 'Bomber' Harris of the Broadwey School of Foreign and Ancient Languages with a tongue twister I just couldn't manage. Trying to explain to Ille that I had spent 12 months in the Persian Gulf, she simply didn't understand this time span and so I was very kindly sent this link. I must point out this is not a spoof, as I have since proved it out here on the ground!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SH5LFFakKfc

The rain abated just after noon so, with a little reluctance on my part, we took to the bikes. Visibility was less than a mile, but we were riding on a well made, flat road, hoping to make the village of Puise 8Km away, and occasionally walking to the foreshore. Almost immediately 3 Common Gulls flew over, and we located a small party of Siskin in a stand of Alders. The adjacent fields were alive with Common Snipe in company with a few Lapwings, while further up the road, Siskin were replaced by Mealy Redpoll but in greater numbers. A small group of Greylag Geese joined a few Teal on the sea as single Linnet, audible only, and a Golden Plover was seen flew above us. Later, a huge party of Corvids put to the air and it was soon apparent why. The massive shape of a young White-tailed Eagle hoved into view, and passed us at about half a mile. That was when the rain restarted and with about a 5Km peddle back, we made for home. Sharp ears picked up a less than familiar call, which was soon seen to be an adult male Black Redstart, and as we neared the hotel a flock of Starlings flew in for a final feed. So, now to dinner and finish our bottle of wine, hoping for a dry day tomorrow.

Golden Plover - near Puise

And finally my own contributions to the Double Entendres

Cricket Commontator at an England v West Indies test match 'This is the start of the second over, and the batsman's (Michael) Holding the bowler's (David) Willie'.

In the early days of colour televised snooker, the commentator enlightened some by announcing, 'for those of you watching in 'black & white' the blue is tight behind the green'.

From Badminton 'For those of you just joining us, we can tell you that Captain Mark Phillips, recently married to the Princess Anne, had a refusal at the first jump'.

A Great Time Being Had By All

Please Note, a few Photographs have been added to yesterdays Post - Enjoy!

A drop of Grape Juice before the Gig


The violins take a bow

Then the Cellos
After a little Dvorak and Beethoven the 'conductor' takes his bow

Just to catch up on a few more photos, these are from the excellent musical evening at the Tallinn Concert Hall

There wasn't a hope in hell of getting a post on Saturday, it was a day filled to the brim and a great time we all had to boot. After a late and lazy start and an Ille cooked breakfast, described by her as what her father ate every morning of his life, we met Herkko and visited a local flea market where we picked up yet more hats - see them when I'm next in the 'field'. Both he and Helis, his lady, live close by so it was off to their place for and Italian main course, followed by chocolate pudding (like the old chocolate these Estonians) and a drop of Jameson's Irish Whiskey.

and the breakfast I hear you ask? 6 fried eggs, 10 rashers of bacon, marinaded mushrooms, enough fried spuds (Ille grown) to sink a Battle Wagon, 3 slices of toast, 2 glasses of her own Red Current cordial and 2 cups of coffee. No wonder her dear old dad was cut down in his prime at 97, how could anyone expect to live long eating like that??

Helis & Herkko at home

After we decided on a taxi home, but on the way side stepped for a nightcap at the recently opened Clazz Jazz Cafe. Superseding the recently defunct Guitar Safari it does have the same atmosphere without any of the Rock & Roll memorabilia. Despite the good intent it became apparent there was a 7 piece Cuban combo (Baila la Habana) playing at 22-30 so we decided to stay for just one number. Cinderella had departed long before we hit the night air, and without a single 'pumpkin', or a team of white mice in sight we had to walk home.

2 pints of Saku and a packet of crisps

Baila la Habana
DittoDittoSome people just like blowing their own trumpet

"and for the 2 ladies over in the corner, this ones just for you"

Despite the light drizzle it was a most pleasant walk back to Ille's place, and we decided on a few photies on the way.

A neat present for the biggest 'stirrer' in town

"Bagsy the soups ready"

As for today, most of it has been spent traveling to the coast on the Gulf of Riga. Tallinn to Haapsalu is 100 Km and took just under 2 hours on the coach. There we had a 2 hour 30 minute wait, so we set off on our first 'birding' sortie to the seashore. Most of what was seen could be put down to 'usual fair', but from the waters edge we saw a decent size skein of White-fronted Geese, and also in good numbers Gooseander, Goldeneye, Wigeon, Mute Swan, Gadwall, Cormorant, Coot, Tree Sparrow, Goldfinch and a single Great Spotted Woodpecker. The highlight came as we walked back through the town where the calling of a dozen Waxwing alerted us to their presence. There was time to visit the Railway Museum before the bus arrived, and while Ille is making giant steps with her English tuition, I couldn't help laughing at the Spoonerism as she described it as the 'Stail Ration, he he. Just 35 minutes onward to Altmoisa and a 5 minute stroll to the hotel. Major restoration work was underway, but not surprisingly as the season was over several weeks ago. Mine hosts checked us in, showed us our room and suggested a walk along the planked area on marsh adjacent and on to the bird viewing platform. We clocked a Snipe and a few Fieldfare on the way, but apart from a lone Mute Swan and another group of Geese flying in it was all but barren. Back at the hotel dinner consisted of salmon for main course and very tasty home made ice cream for pudding. We were given a complimentary bottle of white and then made for some rest. That is where I'm going now. GOOD NIGHT!

Waxwings @ Haapsalu
At the Loco Shed
Ditto

Double Entendres Continued

Mike Hallett discussing missed snooker shots on 'Sky Sports': 'Stephen Hendry jumps on Steve Davis's misses every chance he gets.'

Michael Buerk on watching Philippa Forrester cuddle up to a male astronomer for warmth during BBC1's UK eclipse coverage remarked: 'They seem cold out there.They're rubbing each other and he's only come in his shorts.'

Ken Brown commentating on golfer Nick Faldo and his caddie Fanny Sunneson lining-up shots at the Scottish Open: 'Some weeks Nick likes to use Fanny; other weeks he prefers to do it by himself.'

Photo Phailure (Corrected)

What a Welcome

Arrived safely in Estonia at 00.20 this morning with little more than a minor hitch to report en-route. We were 30 minutes on the tarmac at Heathrow before the Air Traffic Controllers returned from their extended coffee break, so there was some doubt that I would make my connection in Helsinki. In the event I had about 30 minutes to get off the plane, get through passport control and walk to the other side of the airport. This would have been fairly straight forward had I not got half way before realising I had left Ille's present in the luggage rack. I made it by the skin of my teeth and left Finland the same as I arrived Tallinn, in a downpour of rain. All thoughts of that disappeared as I saw Tallinn Lady at the end of the concourse, and within 15 minutes in a taxi we were at her appartment. A glass of wine and supper and I had had enough or this part of the day, and there followed a very lazy awakening. This afternoon we met up with Herkko and Helis, Ille's son and his lady, and ate at a very good restaurant, Vertigo, aptly named being 10 stories above the city centre. After this I was indulged in one of my favourites at the Chocolateria where the drinking chocolate is the best I have had anywhere in the world. During the afternoon, Ille had contacted her friend, Chief Administrator at the Tallinn Concert Hall, who not only gave us 2 tickets for the cities Symphony Orchestra, but also involved us in a wine reception and arranged drinks for us at the interval. I hope to bring you photographs of all these events when I can hook my computer up to the internet, but for now I'm having to use Ille's which is presenting a little difficulty with a different format. So for now we will both wish you farewell, with a message from Ille to thank those who sent presents and good wishes to her, THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH!!

Anyone got Vertigo yet? Ille with Helis

A flower?
Hot Chocolate all round

Towards Tallinn

Preparing some of this Blog posting last evening, I had just 'checked in' on line for my FinnAir flight to Tallinn, Estonia via Helsinki. Yes, 10 days with the lovely Ille the first 2 in the capital, before we travel east to the Gulf of Riga coast, then back for my final 2 days. When booking our hotel in Altmoisa, Ille asked about the bird watching but the news wasn't particularly good. There had already been snow, a stiff breeze was blowing in off the Baltic and with the onset of much colder weather it was said the birds had mostly passed through. However, as we 'birders' know there is usually something to see so we'll get out there and give it a go. In the event of a 'blank' we'll have to think of something to do! So, it's the 10-40 National Express followed by an 18-05 flight, I should arrive 20 minutes into Friday.

Here are a few photographs from my first visit to Estonia during the spring of 2006.

Overlooking the city, towards the Gulf of Finland

City Square & Town Hall, Tallinn

Alexander Nevski Cathedral, Tallinn

Medieval towers and city walls Tallinn

'Guitar Safari' Blues Speakeasy

Unfortunately this excellent venue is now defunct

a few more Double Entendres

Harry Carpenter at the Oxford-Cambridge boat race in 1977, 'Ah, isn't that nice, the wife of the Cambridge President is kissing the Cox of the Oxford crew.'

US PGA Commentator 'One of the reasons Arnie (Arnold Palmer) is playing so well is that, before each tee shot, his wife takes out his balls and kisses them. Oh my god!! what have I just said??'

Carenza Lewis about finding food in the Middle Ages on 'Time Team Live' said: 'You'd eat beaver if you could get it.

Whale Meat Again, Don't Know Where Don't Know When

You see the problem is, once I get onto a subject it can be a while before I get off it! Cases in point are Joe Bonamassa and Feasts. Last evening I dined with the Edwards, who earlier in the week described my attitude to Mr Bonamassa as 'anal', so I decided to give them a taster. Sheila is most discerning, possibly even catholic, regards her choices of music, while Bowie (Lorne) borders on unpleasable. Craving their indulgence, I suggested we play the opening sequence including the track Django, followed by the 'self penned' Ballard of John Henry, before eating. As the last riff of BofJH faded I turned to look at my hosts who appeared to be in a state of bewilderment. Briefly, Bowie said he had never seen or heard anything so musically exciting, while Sheila claimed to be high and exhausted by the experience. The delivered Chinese 'take-away' from Yummy on Abbotsbury Road (advert) was excellent as usual, but all those 2 Herberts wanted to do was get back to the (double) DVD, which we played in its entirety - good evening or what!

Frozen Feast in the High Arctic

My 10 week trek from El Segundo Beach, Los Angeles, California to (arguably) the most northerly town in the world Barrow, Alaska, taking in the full length of the Alaska Highway, was both diverse and unparalleled as far as experiences were concerned. The full distance of 2,700 miles was undertaken by public, road transportation, with the exception of the final 500 miles Fairbanks to Barrow. There was a simple reason for this, roads are dangerous and inadequate, and similar to the sea, frozen solid to the North Pole despite the time of year, early summer. Having witnessed and experienced enough to fill a book, the best, by accident, occurred last.

The moment our pilot announced we were crossing the Arctic Circle - having crossed above it, in the past, by air, over it by ship and under it on a submarine, I now have a desire to transit it on foot to complete the 'set'.

Firstly, meeting the Iñupiaq (who we might call Eskimos) people was a wonder in itself, with a family inviting me to their home before even disembarking the aircraft. Next, as previously mentioned the ground was still frozen, the surroundings were austere and immediately obvious life here is tough. On the up side, dawn to dusk birding meant 24 hours, there was no lack of company with locals and contractors seemingly willing to help where they could. Of the latter, off-shift activities only included thumb twiddling, sleeping, searching for nonexistent alcohol and looking for company, so it was very easy to find someone to take you further afield.

I wouldn't want to go Mackerel fishing in that, let alone Whaling with a hand harpoon

One afternoon, returning towards the hotel I watched a group of men bringing this small boat off the ice and into town. Here a large group of people had formed for what was their traditional Whale Festival. Immediately invited to join the throng, I was told that these diminutive boats are used, almost exclusively, for hunting the 28 Bowhead Whales that the Indians are permitted to kill annually.

Bowhead whale hunting was, and continues to be, important to the Iñupiaq culture, not just for the food they provide, but for the sense of community and cooperation it creates. The whales can weigh as much as 60 tons, which means they have to be hunted by groups of people working together with a whaling captain. When they kill a whale, the Iñupiaq thank it for giving its life to them, and the whole community shares in its bounty. Much of the equipment traditionally used by their ancestors, including the umiaq, or sealskin canoe, is still used today. During the prolonged winter the boats stand propped up on the ice, with those flying a flag at the masthead indicating success in the hunt.

Bowls, mainly filled with White-fronted Goose stew, ready to be served

Once the boat is secured in the car park, today doubling as the village square, the festivities can begin. Firstly, everyone is served a soft drink followed by a hearty portion of Wild Goose stew amid much adulation for the boat crew, who not surprisingly are 'local heroes'. Much effort goes into this celebration of the Whale, but more than meets the eye.

Serving Muktak - don't worry Bags there will be plenty left for 'seconds'

When each of the revered beasts are landed, the town elders select and remove the most sought after cuts, slice into strips and store the raw flesh in large barrels. There it is marinaded in its own blood for 6 months, during which time it is stirred ritually every morning and evening.

The 'Muktak' Muncher, looking very confident

On the fateful day, this is served to the whole assembly, most of whom take it home in plastic bags to 'enjoy' with their families in the evening. I have never been squeamish about eating strange foods around the world, but on this occasion I think it would have been preferable to learn about what was to be eaten, after the event.

Ditto - but the smile has gone as the first drop of blood hits the back of the throat!
Delicious - the locals look amused, but I'll take a rain check on 'seconds' thank you!

Trivia

Contact with Europeans came in 1826, when two British men arrived and renamed the area Barrow (the Iñupiaq named it Ukpiagvik, meaning “the place for hunting snowy owls”).

In 1969 'Cream' lyricist and songwriter Pete Brown formed a band which he called Piblokto. Having seen them on a number of occasions, the name intrigued me at the time, but it wasn't until this trip that the true meaning was reveled.

Piblokto, or Arctic Hysteria is a condition exclusively appearing in Eskimo societies living within the Arctic Circle. Appearing most prevalently in winter, it is considered to be a form of a culture-bound syndrome.

(Unintended) Double Entendres - should my memory allow, it is intended to post what are considered a dozen of the best, submitted by one of our regular readers.

Ted Walsh, Horse Racing Commentator - 'This is really a lovely horse. I once rode her mother.'

New Zealand Rugby Commentator - 'Andrew Mehrtens loves it when Daryl Gibson comes inside of him.'

Pat Glenn, Weightlifting Commentator - 'And this is Gregoriava from Bulgaria . I saw her snatch this morning and it was amazing!'