Men About Town

So far today, we have enjoyed a Continental breakfast followed by a walk from Pimlico to the South Bank via Lambeth Bridge. At the London Eye I was describing to Andy how much Ille and I had enjoyed the video which accompanies the flight, and decided to pop in to see if we could just do the film and not the Wheel. We were met by Danny, the Manager, and I described our plight as a strange request which he said he had never been asked before. A most convivial man, he instructed one of the attendants to take us to the front of the queue and let us watch for free! I enjoyed it as much a second time, while Andy was also impressed then we continued along the Thames side to Tate Modern. Andy's daughter Sarah, who teaches 'art' had described it as a lot of dross with some excellent gems to be found. We found the building, the redundant Southwark Power Station, most interesting with its intricate brickwork and an interior light, bright, fresh and airy. The exhibits were on the whole interesting particularly the 'room size' work by Cornelia Parker entitled 30 Pieces of Silver. Constructed from steamrollered silver tableware, the flattened items were formed into the said 30 pieces shaped like coins and suspended from the ceiling.

We then moved, via the notorious Millennium footbridge, to the other side of the river and met up with one of Andy's old ship mates Jeb Kitchen, now Managing Director of Bibby Lines, and enjoyed a pleasant lunch together at the Foreign Exchange. The afternoon had been laid aside for a visit to the Satchi Gallery, but in the event we happened across the unveiling of a statue in Trafalgar Square to deceased Chief Air Vice Marshal Kieth Park, architect of the Battle of Britain. Needless to say there was enough gold braid to go round, and in addition to military types Boris Johnson, Michael Howard and others were in attendance. The unveiling, of a most striking representation of the man donning his flying gloves, was carried out by the Park family, which for now stands on the Forth Plinth but will, in 6 weeks time, find its way to Pall Mall. As the white silk cloth fell to the ground a Typhoon fighter and a Spitfire roared overhead making for quite a spectacle.

There was only time for a brief visit to the Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery before we returned to the hotel to prepare for this evening. Tonight we dine with our mutual friend Stephen Williams MD of the Antiques Wine Company who, to describe as a colourful character would be under selling the description. There should be more of this in tomorrows post. Unfortunately I have misplaced my camera lead so no photos to accompany this post, but again I'll endeavour to rectify this before long.

Trujillo Revisit

I'm starting today's post from the cockpit of the 09-00 National Express service from Weymouth to London Victoria, and believe it or not I'm navigating.Seems our driver was thrown in at the deep end this morning, having just got a 'draft chit' from London to the south, and instead of doing a familiarisation day he was luffed in for this run due to a sick colleague. Anyway we are getting there. Meeting up with Andy Lindsay about 14-00 there should be more developments later, but for the time being I can report that the arrangements for the impending trip are gathering pace. It is hoped that during my 3 months on the Sub-Continent of South America at least 9 of the countries will be visited but, with the exception of the first 4 weeks plans are still in the melting pot. Having said that, there are a number of objectives such as a re-visit to Galapagos and also to the city of Trujillo, which I would like to fulfil. Arguably the second largest city in Peru, Mike Hughes, my ex-boss, and I spent a most unusual couple of days there in the Spring of 2003. Only a few miles from the border with Ecuador we arrived late in the evening and just took a chance on a nearby hotel. The following morning was sunny, warm and bright so we decided to skip breakfast and head off for an early walk, where at the archetypal colonial City Square, bedecked with palm trees, dotted with statues and surrounded by beautiful buildings, we noticed a brass band practicing at the far side. Worth an investigation,we were intercepted part way by the Tourist Police who were most interested to know where we were from and what we were doing. With nothing sinister afoot we were asked to meet the Chief Inspector, who in turn invited us to be 'Guests of Honour' and take the salute at their Annual Parade. We were obviously curious as to what this would entail but being ex-military types decided this would be a great honour. Indeed it was, as firstly we were introduced to a number of the dignitaries, including the Admiral of the Fleet, 2 Army Generals and a Wing Commander. It was explained that each year the parade is dedicated to a section of the local community, and this was the turn of the cities Women. We were to stand center stage and as the various divisions marched past (starting with the Navy Band and finishing with the Nursery School) we would be expected to salute them from the dias stood next to none other than the President of the Country and his wife. This, we agreed, had to go down as one of the most amazing moments of our lives, and after the parade had passed (about 40 minutes) and formed in the square, El Presedenti and wife were escorted towards 3 massive flag poles where they would hoist the Nations ensign, followed by the Mayor and his lady who did similarly with the County flag. That just left Mike and me to receive a 'sword salute' from the escort guard, follow in the footsteps of our predecessor's and hoist the City banner.It should be explained that each of these ensigns were the size of an articulated lorry and almost needed one to carry them, so we decided that with the aid of our escort we would each put in half the effort to get the flag to the 'truck' (top). From there we were taken to the finery of the City Hall were beneath gigantic chandeliers and overlooked by fine painting, we shook the hands of the afore mentioned dignitaries, and met many of the Cities elder statesmen and women. All of this took place while enjoying some fine wine and cake, after which we were taken to Huaca de Sol, the object of our visit in the first place and given a guided tour.

My plan is to take the photographs below and simply bowl into the Tourist Police Station to see if there is any reaction! Apologies for the poor quality of these images.

Crossing the Ecuador / Peru border

The Guard prepare for march past

'Guests of Honour' marching to the flag pole (note:- the gentleman in the grey suit is the President of Peru with his wife to his right)

Arriving at the flag pole under escort

Mike hoists his half of the city flag

Flag hoisted and secured (note:- while on diplomatic duties, it's always best to wear a 'Stoned Again' T shirt)

The Huaca del Sol (Temple of the Sun) is an adobe brick temple built by the Moche civilization on the coast of what is now Peru. The temple is one of several ruins found near the peak of Cerro Blanco, in the coastal desert near Trujillo, Peru. The other major ruin at the site is the nearby Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon), a better-preserved but smaller temple.

By 450 BC, eight different stages of construction had been completed on the Huaca del Sol. The construction of the temple was additive; new layers of brick were laid directly on top of the old, hence large quantities of bricks were required for its construction. It has been estimated by archaeologists that the Temple was composed of over 130 million adobe bricks and was the largest pre-Colombian adobe structure built in the Americas. The number of different makers' marks on the bricks suggests that over a hundred different communities contributed bricks to the construction of the Huacas.

The whole complex was composed of four main levels and the structure was expanded and rebuilt by different rulers over the course of time. Located at the center of the Moche capital city, archaeological evidence suggests that this temple was used for ritual activity and as a royal residence and burial chambers.

During the Spanish occupation of Peru in the early 17th century, the waters of the Moche River were redirected to run past the Temple base in order to facilitate the recovery of gold artifacts. The creation of this hydraulic mine greatly damaged the Huaca del Sol, and it is estimated that approximately two-thirds of the structure has been lost to erosion and looting. The remaining structure stands at a height of 41 meters (135 feet). It is believed to have originally been about 50 meters in height. Looting and erosion due to El Niño continue to be major concerns to this day.

The miracle here must be the way these simple 'mud' designs have survived the savages of more than 2,000 years

Looks like a couple of the original builders

Thoughts of This Time Tomorrow

What a welcome change in the weather today? As I walked from Radipole to Lodmoor, via Greenhill, I mused that temperatures were positively warm. At the former there was evidence of visible migration with Wood Pigeon predominant backed by good numbers of Skylark and Meadow Pipit. Along with these were single Stonechat, 4 Pochard and a number of Common Snipe, while on the way to the latter I observed 5 Turnstone east of the Pier Bandstand. The Moor immediately offered up a Greenshank, albeit briefly, as Little Egret a few Lapwing, single Kingfisher, a few Reed Bunting plus 10 Black-tailed Godwit also found space in the log. November was the only month I had never recorded Marsh Harrier in the county, so one of the 2 regular juveniles was a welcome sighting as were a few tardy Painted Lady Butterflies. In Weymouth Bay a couple of 'tankers' still swing to their anchors, probably indicating the continuing economic situation (no cargo's), but among them were 3 Great Northern Divers, while a Sparrowhawk flew in from seaward.

One of 5 Turnstones at Greenhill

with a number of Reed Buntings evident on Lodmoor

while 'dabbling ducks', including this pair of Gadwall and good numbers of Teal were on Lodmoor

With a lunch date at noon (no one said retirement was going to be easy) I was surprised how quickly the morning had passed, when in the company of Darragh Croxson and Dick & Debbie Morris I noted via my mobile the time was 11-10. Reassured by my company that it was an hour earlier, I realised I had not altered the clock since my return from Estonia so still had time to finish some business in town. Shelagh over the road had invited fellow neighbour Noreen and Joy's friend Roy for a midday repast. Very nice it was too, and after putting the world to rights we went our separate ways, m to get ready for tomorrow! Tomorrow, oh I hadn't mentioned that. Andy Lindsey phoned me yesterday afternoon suggesting we had a mid-week week-end in London which it took me a micro second to agree to. It has been a while since we last embarked on what had previously been a regular Big Lads day out, so is long outstanding. Uriah Heep, in their much altered form, are playing Holloway on Wednesday evening but we have decided to give that a miss. If Messrs Byron, Kerslake and Thain were still in operation it would have been a forgone conclusion, but it was agreed, best let sleeping dogs lie. However, we have a few interesting plans afoot which I'll divulge via these pages over the next couple of days, so watch this space. Over and Out!

That's Ma Boy!

Thank heavens for some inclement weather today. After my excellent trip to Estonia, I was champing at the bit to get back to some home birding, which would have gained priority, but there is also the matter of preparing for the next trip and clearing up from the last. Lots of things caught up with today and looking at the forecast there maybe a 'window' or two tomorrow to get out?

A little 'eye candy' by way of a squadron of Australian Pelicans - Flinder's Bay, Western Australia

and the seriously endangered Carnaby's Black Cockatoo - Stirling Range, Western Australia

One point I should clear up from the Tuesday 27th post, White-backed Woodpecker wasn't in fact a 'world lifer', the 2 Skinny Kids and I saw them in Mongolia but was an addition to the Estonia list. On the wider bird front, reports from Buchan Alpha really haven't panned out the way Dave Penney had hoped, and in addition I have erased his only photograph of a female Merlin. There have been 'thousands' of Thrushes, which is the norm, but otherwise single Blackcap, Greylag Goose, Brambling and a 2 day staying Lapwing is depressingly poor to say the least.

and finally a Freddie update

a good looking lad if ever I saw one!

Yes, this kid's going to be a Diver just like his Granddad was

Give us a cuddle Mum

No more tickling with that rabbit Dad

The Pitfalls of Travel

The journey home today proved to be one of fits and starts, but in the end I made it. We were up at the prescribed hour, 04-00, and not surprisingly Ille had the breakfast and coffee ready in super quick time. The taxi also arrive on the dot of 5a.m. and by 05-30 we had said our good-byes and I was clear of security. The small turbo prop job taking us the 20minute hope to Helsinki was also prompt, but that was when we hit the first snag. The Pilot reported he had an indication of failure on his equipment, and had to head back to the stand but before arrival things got back to normal. An uneventful flight, transfer and loading into the Airbus 320 that was to bring us back to Heathrow and Herkko had done particularly well as I was in the front row of toe-rag class (row 6) and in an aisle seat, almost poll position you might say! Perfect you may think, but we were put on hold for 15 minutes, circling above Staines, then when we got to the 'stand' the damned 'air bridge' failed. So, we now had to disembark from the aft steps meaning those who might have got off first, myself included, now got off last. It was rapidly approaching 10.00 the time of my National Express and it seemed like 10,000 people at passport control, but in the end I made it with 5 minutes to spare. The driver was quick away, and after his safety announcement, let it be known that there had been a bad accident on the M3 and he would be taking an alternative route via Farnborough. This also didn't come to pass as the matrix had been cleared so we continued down the Motorway, only to find there had been another more recent crash which we got a grandstand view of and was not a pretty picture. However, we got to Poole on time, where I decided to hasten the last part of the journey by getting the train. ELEVEN QUID! Yes £11 Poole to Weymouth, makes you wonder why people aren't using the trains. Anyway, I was back on familiar soil, and after a lamb shoulder in JD's it was home. An early night for this lad, in the hope that predicted rain keeps at bay and I get some birding in tomorrow. So, till then, here are a few more photies from yesterday.

Ille with the roast nut girls

Looks like I've got to take 2 of them to dinner

Josephine's Chocolate Cafe

Look at that lump of 'Porter' chocolate cake!!

A drop more water with I think

Here are some of the outstanding photographs from Thursday when, in quite cold conditions, we walked along the sea wall overlooking the Gulf of Finland. Later we warmed up with soup in a Mexican restaurant.

Tallinn Old City

Male Goldeneye
Male Wigeon
Male Wigeon probably juvenile moulting

2 of the ferries that ply between Tallinn and Helsinki


Male Mallard

Good-bye Estonia (For Now)

It has been a fantastic 10 days, but tomorrow I'm up at 04-00 for a 5 'o' clock taxi ride to the airport. I've suggested a large coffee and no breakfast so I may just get away with the 'half dozen' with soldiers and get a bit of snap on the kite. 06-15 from Tallinn gets me to Helsinki at 06-50, the 08-00 should arrive Heathrow 09-10 and all being well I should get the 10-00 National Express and arrive Weymouth 14-50. This will be just in time for a lamb shoulder at JD Weatherspoon's before returning to the hacienda.  

We have spent our last, sunny, day wandering the streets and alleyways of the olde town and spent more than a little time in Josephine's, the sister cafe to Chocolate de Pierre. Under duel ownership the fare is similar, but we stuck to hot chocolate, which i have waxed lyrical about before, but could not resist the temptation of a shared 'Porter' cube of rich chocolate cake - yum, yum. Then I remembered Andy Lindsay's bizarre idea of complimenting such delicacies with a drop of decent whiskey, and pain me as it does, i have to agree with him. Two large Tullamore Dews did the trick, and if this isn't the way to spend a Friday afternoon, prey enlighten me! After, we had to rendezvous with Herkko who had both checked me in and printed my boarding cards. Whoever came up with this idea deserves a kiss, as I used to benefit tremendously in my rig days, but now travelling is so much more important, it's an absolute boon.

So, looks like an early night, OK dear I'm on my way! Talk again Manana!

From your 'egg-bound' correspondent in Eastern Europe - Head Ööd  

Another 'First' and Maybe Another One to Come!

Any day I discover something 'new' is in my book a great day. Preferably a bird, but mammal, food, wine, music, everything is in the frame! A slow wake up to a possibly cold day, but by the look of it little prospect of rain. Reduced to just 4 eggs was a bonus to start with, and after we headed for the Tallinn harbour and sea wall. Before even catching a glimpse of the sea Greenfinch entered the log as an Estonian tick, as did Raven immediately we hit the foreshore. We were now out of the lee, and despite the wind speed being less than 20 knots, it was from the north east making for a cold day via wind chill. The beach was strewn with Hooded Crow, Black-headed Gull and L argentatus, but up ahead looked promising with good numbers of Duck not too far out to sea. These proved to be a few Mallard, a single Gadwall, dozens of Wigeon and hundreds of Goldeneye mostly males. However, that was as good as it got, and in some quarters the temperature was taking its toll so we decanted to a nearby Mexican restaurant where we met up with Herkko and had a bowl of soup. 

After this short repast the 3 of us headed back to Ille's apartment where I had been promised a surprise. On arrival they both set about laying the table, and I have to admit to thinking "oh no not more food", It was, but only a small amount as they gave me a small taste of one of their Christmas treats, Lamprey! Caught in the river which forms the border between Russia, these elongated fish with that strange mouth sucker, is considered a delicacy and commands a price up there with caviar. Marinaded and immersed in a jar of aspic, Ille informed me that she keeps one jar strictly for herself on Christmas Day, which hereabouts is December 24th, and eats them in traditional style, with a tot or 2 of Ukraine vodka. This was the way we ate them this afternoon and I have to say, most enjoyable in addition to being a 'first'. During this treat I was also told about Vodka Socks. Yes, I was equally intrigued! Well, it seems if you get anything from diphtheria to an ingrowing toe nail, you immediately eliminate the local GP and stick ya woolies in a jar of Vodka. When they are completely soaked you slip them on and when you wake up in the morning, Hey Presto you attain the same status as Lazarus!

Well, that's it for today, unfortunately no photographs as I'm using Ille's laptop and have no idea how to downloat todays 'takings'  -  Manana.