Wednesday, 18 November 2009

Yukon Have Elk & Moose!

Last nights get together was a little boisterous, to say the least, while in the melee of yarns, tales and ditties many went unfinished. When the moose photograph was posted the other day I said I'd relate the tale of eating the meat, which falls in nicely with a few topics from last night.

The main thrust of my North American trip in the spring of 2008, was to travel the full length of the Alaska Highway by road. Starting at El Segundo Beach, Los Angeles most of the journey was undertaken on the efficient Greyhound coaches, and after a few diversions to view Las Vegas, Flagstaff, Phoenix plus Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks the trip began in earnest. Probably 'the' highlight, for a multitude of reasons, had to be an unscheduled stop at Toad River, Yukon Territory between Dawson Creek and Whitehorse. Here the coach stopped and I joined the driver for a coffee in the small roadside bar, where he suggested I might stay for a few days. It was indeed the 'wilderness', which was what I had come to see, so with his assurance another bus would be along some days later I booked into one of half a dozen sparse but comfortable wooden huts on the edge of the lake.

Yukon Territory, Canada

Toad River Camp - the huts are just out of picture, to the left.

Hospitality was the bye word here between the small population and it seemed in very short time I was a member of the community. Weather was the main concern, as the rain had been persistent and was now turning to snow, but from my room I could view the full length of the lake from where I saw 21 species of wildfowl during the stay. In addition there were Elk, Moose, White-tailed Deer, Red Squirrel, Marmot, Chipmunk plus an active Beaver lodge right next door. Much of the time was spent observing from the cabin, where Dark-eyed Junco, Boreal and Black-capped Chickadee, Say's Phoebe, Swainson's Thrush and White-winged Crossbill were daily visitors. In addition a bird subject of discussion last evening, the Whiskey Jack (yes with an 'e'), was ever present, prompting us to wonder why or how the Grey Jay had come by this nickname?

White-tailed Deer

Beaver Lodge

Dark-eyed Junco

Black-capped Chickadee

Whiskey Jack

Grey Jay

Priority, every morning, as daylight crept across the distant mountains was a large mug of strong coffee, as once I've had my caffeine 'hit' I'm up for anything. That was when a stranger (they were all strangers to me) came in made his first question "where are you from partner". Only Mars would have sparked a more jubilant reaction as I told him "England", to which he countered, " finish your coffee, I have 10 minutes business then I'll take you on a tour". Not believing my luck, I did just that and was soon making the acquaintance of Colin Leake, Maintenance Manager for the Alaska Highway. He suggested collecting my bags and checking out, after which we retraced the route I had taken on the bus. By now the snow was getting heavy, and Colin was taking me to the highest point on the highway, some 40 miles south. What before had been open road, was now all but impassable but his 4x4 got us through and we headed back from whence we came. In both directions there had been a fair amount of mammal activity, but at one stop we encountered a small herd of Bison. Probably naturally, Colin is a hunter, his nickname being 'Trailsniffer', but told me these magnificent looking beasts were left alone as protected. I was to find out more about his hunting prowess later.

American Bison

Returning to the vehicle having capture the image above, he informed me that he had phoned his wife Heather who was now expecting us for lunch. All she needed to know was would I prefer Elk or Moose, as Colin would have to call in at the Maintenance Base to collect the meat. It transpired that the generators at home were sufficient for low domestic supply but could not cope with 'freezer' power, so his company provided the necessary. My request was if both were on the menu, it would be a double 'first'.

Turning off the main highway, we drove down a narrow metaled lane for what seemed like miles until by a pile of recently sawn trees we turned into the Leake homestead. As we passed the logs Colin explained how his father in law had fashioned each and every plank, on a bench saw, and between them had built the fine house that now stood before us. Heather met us at the door, a warm, friendly woman anyone would take to immediately. The introductions soon over we entered the house feeling a drastic change in temperature, accompanied by the smells of cooking, burning wood and pine logs. I had to pinch myself!

some other birds of Toad River

American Wigeon - numerous and confiding.

Barrow's Goldeneye - this astounding duck was approachable with a little patience.

Canvasback - always distant, but afforded this shot.

Slavonian (Horned) Grebe - good numbers of breeding pairs.

Ring-necked Duck - common.

Bonaparte's Gull - only half a dozen seen in this area.

Cinnamon Teal - the only ones seen on this trip.

Mew Gull - subject of another part of the conversation last night, thought distinctive as an adult, but would you pick one out at Ferrybridge? Only a few around Toad River, but some large breeding colonies further north.

Bufflehead - what a little 'cracker'! A few on the lake and common throughout the YT.

Snow Goose - Unlike the 'thousands' seen on another trip over the eastern side of the sub-continent, this was the only one seen.

Trumpeter Swan - The only one at the lake, receiving adverse attention from the Canada Geese, with others elsewhere.

to be continued.

Tuesday, 17 November 2009

Close to Leaving

Is there ever a good time to get toothache? The short answer is NO, but 4 days before setting off on a 3 month adventure makes the situation even worse. Anyway, I've been to see 'the man' who has prescribed a few anti-biotics, and I'm good. Not so last evening when I had to resort to going next door for help where, I'm sure Joy won't mind the analogy, The Witch wove her spell. Dispensing some green, Vietnamese jollop (quite honestly I'd have administered cow dung if convinced it would relieve the pain), this potion, rubbed externally on my lower cheek bone did the bizz within 10 minutes. Good as new, I was able to embark on yet another farewell dinner this evening, as a few like minded 'birders' met in JD's (north) for a pre-Christmas good-bye.

Paul Harris, John Down. Darragh Croxson, Peter Coe and the good looking one

Despite some spells of 'fair' weather I haven't ventured very far in the last couple of days, 'sea watching' being the least favourite of my bird watching activities, but apart from that I don't think I've missed much as I continue to make at least some provisional plans for the upcoming trip. Byron's notes have kept me very busy and I have now got much of the Ecuador leg in place, despite needing much more time there. My mates from Norway arrive tomorrow, as they have decided a few weeks in Weymouth will be preferable to another winter in Tromso, so for the sake of a 'couple of bob' in the meter they will look after my trappings while I'm away. If you're passing and see any lights it's only them!

For a little padding here are a couple of images from the archives.

Australian Magpie - Australia

Tufted Puffin (not the Kent bird) - Alaska

Shaheen - Sri Lanka

Stork-billed Kingfisher - Sri Lanka

Monday, 16 November 2009

Three Wee Gems and an Oilbird

A dull day as far as Blogging is concerned, but a chance to get a lot of things together for the trip and spend a few hours with my nose into 'Birds of Northern South America'. I rarely write up a 'wants list' as it's very much a case of you see what you see. However 3 species have tickled my fancy, the first, a Hummer, since I watched Attenborough's 'Life' last week. There he had a male Marvellous Spatuletail in full display, and berserk doesn't really touch on its actions. Chances of seeing one are negligible only occurring in a dot of high cloud forest in Peru. A detour could be made to Choctamal, Northern Peru but doubt it would be worth the effort. As a consolation prize Racket-tailed Puffleg is very much on the cards, being slightly less colourful and shorter tailed.

Justify FullMarvellous Spatuletail

Racket-tailed Puffleg

The second, another Hummer, is Shining Sunbeam, a little beauty with 'rainbow rump' (difficult to see in the field) that caught my attention the first time I flicked through the field guide. This is highly likely during the first 3 weeks in Columbia, and as Byron has fixed me up with a site in Ecuador, there's a second chance.

Shining Sunbeam

While at 3, the enigmatic Oilbird must be in contention for anyone visiting this part of the world?

Oilbird - hoping to bring you some originals in the weeks to come!

and the last of the Alaska mammals

Killer Whales
Otter
Porcupine
Steller's Sealions

Sunday, 15 November 2009

We Wish You A Merry Christmas etc

Julie, Yous Truely and Nigel

I note that some people in Weymouth already have their Christmas decorations up, which seems a bit early to me but each to their own. I have at least had a mini Xmas party at the Gurkha Restaurant last night, with Julie (my eldest daughter) and my son outlaw Nigel. They came bearing gifts, and I received a most novel Jimi Henchix T'-shirt, the official Hendrix 2010 calendar, a card and a 'How to Speak Estonian for Beginners' CD. I would hardly consider myself a 'beginner' as I already know how to say Ya, have a rest and twelve months, but I'll give it a go. Had initially thought of taking it along on the trip, but feel I'll either be too busy or too tired! They in return got a card and a piece of paper, which may prove profitable if they take it to the right bank. Nigel, Julie and Lee are also planning a Christmas Dinner when I get home, also coinciding with Ille's next visit in March.

Me and my Girl.
Me and my Girl under the mistletoe!

At home complete with T shirt, calendar and Estonian disc.

These were by no means the only presents I have received. Here you'll notice the perfectly fitting (when I loose 5Kgs) cheesecloth shirt plus leather bound and personally monogrammed English to Estonian dictionary. These are from the lovely Ille back in Tallinn.

I also received an e-mail today from Byron Palacios a young Ecuadorian birder I met some months ago at Radipole. Unfortunately, I foolishly omitted to take his details, at the time, or for that matter invite him to come on a birding acquaint of some local areas. Only a few weeks later I decided to embark on my next trip, with the thought of how helpful he may have been to me. Luckily, I bumped into him again, more or less at the same spot, and this time asked for advice over a pint. We met in Dorchester a couple of weeks ago and did just that, with the resulting e-mail making me think I should spend the whole 3 months in his homeland. The prospective bird list is enormous, while the diverse habitat and seemingly easy access around the country could result in a quite exceptional few days there. I should note that as things stand, excluding Galapagos, I must hold the world record for the shortest bird list in that country, a magnificent 14 species.

a few mammals from Alaska 2008

Dall's Sheep - a large percentage of lambs are said to loose their footing on the scree and perish

Fin Whale - the second largest mammal on earth

Moose - hopefully I'll get around to telling the story about eating both Elk and this species, Yum Yum.

Harbour Seals - plenty of these to see up there.

Saturday, 14 November 2009

Don't Cry For Me Argentina

Cementerio de la Recoleta - Buenos Aires, Argentina

The 'final' resting place

I was out partying again last night, this time at Joy's next door for a bit of cheese and wine. Also dining out this evening, I think I'll do more of this going away as so many people are hoping to say their farewells and Merry Christmas before I leave. The high wind as much as anything else put me off venturing out today, but once again gave me time to continue 'swatting up' for the next trip. Given I spent my whole working life at sea and at sometime or another sailed on all of the worlds oceans, it is surprising where I experienced the most dramatic force of the wind. Not in the Arctic Ocean, where on my first sea going ship HMS Keppel, we had relived our stricken sister ship HMS Russell after sustaining serious structural damage caused by a freak wave well inside the Arctic Circle.

H.M.S. Keppel

That was a year long commission serving on the Fisheries Protection Squadron, on occasion crossing swords with Icelander's. Neither was it during a 4 weeks spell in the Southern Oceans, including Cape Horn and the Beagle Channel, both notorious to mariners as some of the wildest waters in the world. No, it was in fact in the center of beautiful Buenos Aires in 2001. My former boss, Mike Hughes, and I had already cut through Brazil and Paraguay later ending up in the Argentinian capital. Of priority here was the resting place of Eva Peron, who's remains had undergone a turbulent 20 year being moved by the government from secret location to secret location. Amid much controversy she had finally been placed in the Cementerio de la Recoleta, much to the disgust of many (all rich) as no amount of money can secure a resting place in this the most revered site in the land. As we approached the small white church outside of the graveyard, a mighty gale struck and while Mike sought shelter under a parked lorry, I forced myself against the cemetery wall. There was no escape from this mighty blast as it ripped mature bushes from the ground, snapped boughs from trees and even lifted cars off of the road. An experience I will happily forgo in the future.

Two Beefeater's in BA

If you need a bit of 'red meat' after a hard day, this is the place

The greatest missed opportunity this month has to be forgetting my camera on the evening out with Andy Lindsay and Stephen Williams. However, while searching out the photographs above, I came across a few of our previous exploits. Andy and I had visited Steve on a number of occasion when he lived, and operated the Antiques Wine Company from Thorpe Constantine in Staffordshire. On one such visit he had just completed a world wide search for the collation and sale of the world’s largest collection of Chateau d’Yquem at $1.5 million, comprising 135 consecutive vintages between 1860 and 2003. It was indeed a privilege to gaze (and even touch) upon such a collection. Another of Steve's coups, was to supply the 70-year-old vintage wines for the 70th birthday celebrations of former U.S. President George Bush. However, in my opinion his final hour coincided with our last visit before he moved to the South of France.

A jeroboam of Chateau Lascombes

Andy with an Imperial of Laurent Perrier and me with a magnum of Chateau Haut Brion

What became known as the Jönköping Treasure was a far more interesting story, which only unfolded when one day he phoned and asked me for a favour. He had a bottle of wine in the custody of the Caviar House on Piccadilly which he was desperate to get to his home before he took a flight to New York t5he next day. By coincidence I was to visit Andy and assured Stephen that I would pick up this single bottle. Here, it would be best to let the divers take over to give a precis of the story.

Jönköping – "The Champagne Wreck"

By: Peter Lindberg

In 1993 we found the first documents concerning the fate of the Jönköping. Captain Eriksson's protest had been archived in Gävle's courthouse for the past 77 years, just waiting for someone to find it. The cargo of Jönköping was treasure indeed, as the ship had been loaded with 50 cases of champagne (7.5 tons), 17 barrels of wine (5 tons) and 67 barrels of cognac (48 tons), almost all addressed to the tsar of Russia. We did not know then if any of this would still be drinkable or not, or even if the barrels / bottles were intact after all those years at the bottom of the Baltic Sea. Experts told us that chances of finding anything still drinkable of that age would be close to zero. However, we decided it would be better to find a pile of wood than make no attempt at all, so we continued our investigation into the fate of Jönköping.

Captain Eriksson's protest told us that Jönköping had been sunk by the German submarine U-22, 4.5 nautical miles off some shallows known as Relanders Grund. The protest also told us about the Swedish steamer Ägir, which had been sunk an hour after Jönköping. In a newspaper from 1916 one of the crew members stated that U-22 left Jönköping sinking, turned south and headed straight towards Ägir. After 15 minutes they caught up with Ägir and stopped her. The protest lodged by Ägir's captain stated their position as 6 nautical miles off an islet named Santakari Båk, which is north-east of Jönköping's stated position.

To cut to the chase, the cargo was salvaged with much of it being drinkable. The full story can be found via this 'link'. Deep Sea Productions

Come home my little treasure

The Champagne particularly had been sampled by a number of Masters of Wine (MW) and being declared drinkable, Stephen was quick to seize the opportunity of being the sole vendor. It was now my job to get this single bottle to him, to be sampled by a potential buy in 'The Apple' during that weekend. As can be seen from both photographs, Steve was delighted by the outcome and went on to sell the find at $5,000 per bottle. For my efforts he kindly donated a 1990 Leoville Barton, which some months later Andy and I enjoyed over a home cooked dinner.

Stephen, Jönköping Champagne and Me

to close today's post, 2 snippets that came my way this morning:- the first, a quote from one of the broadsheets, reporting on the lack of progress generally in reducing carbon emissions one Minister was quoted as saying "we all now live in a Global Village, so by definition there has to be some Global Village Idiots".

and the second comes from the book Wall and Piece by Banksy entitled Love Poem:-

Beyond watching eyes, with sweet and tender kisses
Our souls reach out to each other, in breathless wonder
And when I awoke, from a vast and smiling peace
I found you bathed in morning light, quietly studying
All the messages on my mobile phone