A Stay at Home Day

Stayed on Santa Cruz today, and as announced paid a return visit to the Highlands. Not exactly the Grampians, but high enough to keep an almost constant flow of moisture dropping out of the sky at this time of year. Looking back at my log for 23/02/2003, I noted "the terrain is arid and in the main Thorn Forest", unlike today when everything was beautifully green with mud on the narrow paths.

Los Gemelos (The Twins)

Puerto Ayora is seeming a little like home, with many people recognising me especially the local police. After breakfast I hopped into a collectivo taxi (pick-up truck) which takes you to the bus station for $1. There is only The Canal bus so it's Hobson's and a standing $1.80 regardless of your destination. Being fairly familiar territory I had some idea of where I was going and what I might see. The bus dropped me at Los Gemelos (The Twins) which are two fairly identical volcanic sinkholes, one either side of the main road, and a magnet for most tourists.

The East Sinkhole
Ditto

Large-billed Flycatcher - just stuck this in to relieve the boredom of sinkholes.

When I arrived there were already 2 coach loads, and you could hear the occupants 2 blocks away. Luckily, I only wanted a fleeting glimpse of the depressions, a photo call then into the forest via a very narrow and muddy path by and large unused. Last time we did get good views of the extremely elusive Dark-billed Cuckoo, but that was no to be today not helped by the now dense vegetation. However, I got straight onto a pair of Woodpecker Finches which were more intent on collecting nesting material than displaying their most unusual feeding technique. Having particularly short tongues, they resort to plucking a twig or cactus needle to prise grubs from tree cavities, often using the same tool over again and adjusting length as requires. Also in attendance were a good number of extremely vocal Warbler Finch, along with all 3 Tree Fiches, Large-billed (Galapagos) Flycatcher, Smooth-billed Ani and the endemic Mockingbird. I was by no means finished, but by mid-day the light drizzly rain had become persistent and so returned to the main road to find a lift 'home'.

The West Sinkhole

Pretty similar aren't they?

Yet another self-portrait

Reaching the road, I found a motorcycle policeman on duty doing traffic checks, who asked if I was returning to town. my Spanish (and Pigeon) is just about good enough now to know that he was willing to organise my ride. Taking the opportunity, I asked if he knew anything about the dead man on the beach last week, and told me it had been the highlight of the year thus far. Turns out he was an ex-military man, married with 2 children (who had been looking for him for 5 days) and had just spent 3 years in jail on San Cristobel for drug abuse. As suspected, he had wandered onto the lava fore-shore, stoned, fallen and hit his head, so it seems the 'Big C' gets you one way or another.

A couple of shots from yesterday.

Great Frigatebird (male)

Great Frigatebird (juvenile) note orange/brown on throat, which often extends over the head.

Floreana Forever

We boarded the 15 meter 'speed boat' Luna Azul at 08-30, and by 10-15 we had covered the 60Km south to the Isla de Floreana. Here there was more hope of the 2 desired species, and as we were ferried ashore by a small tender already most cameras were clicking away at Galapagos Sea-Lions and Marine Iguanas (and one woman from the US even finding Sea-Lion droppings photogenic, whatever turns you on!). Close to the jetty there were also a couple of decent size Green Sea Turtles feeding, but they were by no mean as cooperative photograph wise. Now, those of you who have had dealings with scarce diving birds, such as Black Guillemot springs to mind, will empathise with what happened next. There was short wait for the bus to take us part way up the hill, and that was when I spotted 2 Penguins at the outer end of the jetty ,from where we had just come. Making sure I was seeing straight I clocked them with the 'bins', then ran the 200 meters or so to get a better look. Approaching cautiously, as they had now close to just a couple of feet from the sea wall, I again checked them with the glasses. They were feeding and as they dived I stood waiting camara poised, but they were never seen again.

The mighty Luna Azul

Welcome to Floreana

Green Sea Turtle

(Large & Colorful) Marine Iguana

Half way up the hill we started our search for the Floreana Sub-species of Giant Tortoise and for me Medium Tree Finch, one of only 4 of the 'Darwin's' I haven't seen. Neither took long, as within a few minutes we happened across five of the 'giants' which seemed to be attracting the Finches. More caution was required here as it was a mixed flock, and in all I recognised all 3 Ground, Vegetarian and Medium Tree, quite a haul but only the single 'lifer'.

Floreana Giant Tortoise

Ditto (head shot)

Brown Noddy

After the one hour walk we headed back to the boat and took another 20 minutes to get to where the snorkeling was to take place. However, not for me, I had other fish to fry, the first being the Penguin, one of which was waiting as we turned into a sheltered cove. A little distant but close enogh for a photo, before the Swallow-tailed Gulls started to arrive. Three in number flew tantilisingly close, but not close enough for the Canon, but what a bird. This has to be the worlds best looking Gull, if you know of a better one please let me know. Later we bombed off to yet another small island where, as a massive bonus, there was a GREAT Frigatebird 'rookery', fantastic to see males, females and orange/brown headed juveniles. There were also large numbers of Audubon's Shearwater performing the most fantastic fishing technique. Flying in small groups, they would hit the surface in a plunge and if unsuccessful would immerse their heads looking for prey before swimming underwater after any thy had spotted. I hope to publish a series of shots of this when I have edited them. In addition to all of this, on the way out we also saw flesh-footed Shearwater and Galapagos Petrel both 'lifers' for me.

So, after a great day it's a lie in tomorrow, breakfast and then I'll head to what they call 'The Highlands'. Of the 3 Darwin Finches I have left to see, Mangrove is only available on Isla de Isabella, and even then 'rocking horse droppings', while Sharp-beaked Ground and Large Cactus Finches are, I think, possible. We'll see!

Galapagos Penguin

Island with Frigatebird 'Rookery' (name not known)

Swallow-tailed Gull

Ditto

Ditto - I'm hoping for better images if there is another chance.

As a small diversion, this is Frederick (my second Grandson, doing well by the look of it!) with Mummy (Lisa) & Daddy (Bernard) in sunny Australia at Christmas - OK Cobbler.

Additions to Lists since arrival on Galapagos

BROWN NODDY
SMALL GROUND FINCH (E)
GALAPAGOS DOVE (E)
MEDIUM GROUND FINCH (E)
LARGE GROUND FINCH (E)
CACTUS FINCH (E)
LAVA HERON (E)
LAVA GULL (E)
AUDUBON'S SHEARWATER
MASKED BOOBY
LARGE BILLED FLYCATCHER (E)
FLESH-FOOTED SHEARWATER
GALAPAGOS PETREL* (E)
MEDIUM TREE FINCH* (E)
VEGETARIAN FINCH (E)
SWALLOW-TAILED GULL (E)

Trip Total Species - 770
World 'Lifers' - 518
'Endemics' - 56

Galapagos Myths Dispelled

After overdoing it the last few days, and getting a little more than my quota of sun yesterday, despite precautions, today has been designated a 'rest day'. A post card or two for the girls, put my dhobying into the laundry for a change (2 x shirt + 1 x trousers washed and ironed $1 - bloody scandalous), caught up on some notes and typed the Glaucous-winged Gull report.

I now have time to write a few words, mainly for those who may be contemplating a visit to these magic Islands, and to dispel the myths. When Hughsie and I decided to travel this way about 7 years ago, the only information we could gather was by and large negative. Regardless we forged on with no pre-booking, only the knowledge that we could take another track if all else failed. We heard that flights were 'thin on the ground', hotels nonexistent and generally the place was not geared up for tourists. I would say straight off that Ecuador and more particularly Galapagos are among the easiest countries I have traveled, but will stick for now with the Islands.

Up to 5 flights leave daily from both Quito and Guayaquil, and having done both would say it's only a matter of how much time you have which one you choose. This trip, from the latter city, the return flight cost £228.31 (using an exchange rate of $1.6 to the £) and as I have already said through these pages, the best on the Internet was £320. After the Sucre collapsed earlier this century Ecuador took the US$ as its currency which makes life very easy. The best bet is to emphasizes a flight to Baltra (there being nothing wrong with the alternative, San Cristobel) except Santa Cruz, and particularly Peurto Ayora, is far more geared up and close to most of the attractions.

Once you land on Baltra a transfer bus awaits and for less than $1 you are shuttled to The Canal where a 75 cent boat ride follows. It's then 42Km to the capital, cost $1.50, and the choice of hotel is yours. Starting at the 'bottom end' there are hostels at less than $10, but I have no idea of the quality, while only because I have stayed here before, I opted for the Hotel Castro. This is a clean, fairly quiet (for probably the noisiest nation on earth), well run, safe, secure and most friendly place, for a paltry £18.75 per night including breakfast.

On the street, no taxi fare should cost you more than $10 even if you late for your flight, but why bother when the bus is a 'tenth' of the price. Restaurants and cafes are plentiful, in my experience clean and friendly and good value for money. Last evening I had charcoal grilled octopus, with a decent salad, chips and 2 soft drinks - total $11. Tours may seem a little pricey but I think not bad value. Visits to the nearer islands work out at about $70, bearing in mind this usually includes pick-up and transfers, breakfast, a good 'fish' lunch plus, in some cases, snorkeling. Mid-distance destinations are about$100 to $130 but if your going the whole hog, a cruise is for you. On arrival I was offered an 8 day 'island hop' for $650 which, with nothing else to pay seems lake a steel, and for those who would try for ALL the 'endemics' (a tall order to say the least, think Mangrove Finch) this would be a must.

That's probably more that enough information for one day, but the point being this is an easy country to travel, and why pay the 'fat cat', stay at home and collect the cash tour operators when you can be spending your money with the indigenous people and supporting their economy. Finally, I have an exceptional 21 day 'birding itinerary' should any of you want a squint, and if further to that you are a group and wish to be led my mate Byron is your man!

You Can Do It On Your Own

A Snapshot (or two) of Puerto Ayora

The Main Pleasure Pier

Puerto Ayora Haven

The Busy Inner Harbour

The Promenade, about the closest I'm going to get to a Black-footed Albatross.

The Catholic Church right next to my hotel, I have to admit the songs they sing here each morning and evening are a joy to behold.

Part of the Town Square, each evening this place teams with people either playing or watching Volleyball.

The Harbour Master's Office

Council Offices

Where the Main Roads Meet

One of the three Main Streets

The Quality

This high quality Jewelry Shop replaced a tarpaulin covered stalled that Mike Hughes and I sheltered under during a proposed visit to the Darwin Center last time here. The rain, and ensuing flood, was so severe we had to abandon the visit as the water was in places waist high. I bet you remember that Shaver My Boy! Now it is owned by a Swiss craftsman of great repute, who designs and fashions each of his creations 'on site', and uses materials such as Platinum, 24 carat Gold and Tahitian Pearls. Not at all a shopper, I did venture in just to look at the fantastic works of art.

While a little less up-beat, there were some lovely pieces here too.

and the Kitch
Not meant to be derogatory, it's a case of 'horses for courses', but there was nothing in this store with a 4 figure price tag!

and what most of the tourists love.

Finally, the Fish Market

I could lose an hour or two here every day and never get bored.

The watchful eye of the Duty Scavenger.

More 'customers' wait their turn.

The Fish Monger's little helper.

Seawatching? O.K. if your out there with the little Blighters

Well, my attempt to score two 'ticks', failed on both counts. Seems I got the wrong Island, but if 'defence' is required trying to get a sensible, knowledgeable and accurate answer to a simple avian question around here is impossible. First question was, "am I likely to see Galapagos Penguin on, or in the region of Bartolome", answers ranging from 'guaranteed' to 'no chance'. Second question, exactly the same with just a slight adjustment - 'Swallow-tailed Gull', again dependent on who you asked same answers. So, I now have to take matters into my own hands, and as for the Penguin Isabella or Floreana seem most likely. I have already booked the latter for Thursday and already another 'guide' has told me there are more on the former. North Seymour definitely has the Gull because I've seen it there before, so just to check I popped into a Tour Office and asked their opinion. They concurred, so I'm off to pay for that directly.

Just back and $100 lighter, But they have confirmed that Penguins were seen on Floreana on Saturday and it's the right island for the Gull. So just need Mother Nature to play her part and we should have one photo and one 'life' tick.

Today wasn't a total wash-out but as for Bartolome it was just a pile of lava, but I'm sure the geologists would love it. I walked half way up the hill with guide and the other 10 in the party, but was so worried a stray Penguin may show up I made my apologies and scampered back down to sea level. Outside of Boobies I saw just 4 species in this god forsaken place, Medium Ground Finch, American Oystercatcher plus Lava & Great Blue Herons. However, the 3 hours passage out, at a speed at which you could see the birds, was fruitful and despite no 'lifer' of most interest were hundreds of Audubon’s Shearwater, ditto what I still believe were Elliot's Storm Petrel, literally thousands of Wilson's Phalarope, plenty of Brown Noddy and a single Red-billed Tropicbird. In addition we saw 8 Golden Ray, a pod of Bottle-nosed Dolphin, several sandy coloured Shark, each about 6 feet long, and masses of Flying Fish. So all in all not a bad day.

Have just 'lost' (through gross incompetence) the best part of today's photographs, so you'll have to do with, the best, what I have left. Perhaps on these cold, miserable nights one of you might like to get Harrison out and check these for me!

Two small islands we past on the way out.

Major Daphne

Minor Daphne

Unidentified Shearwater

Ditto

Ditto

Ditto

Thought to be Elliott's Petrel

Ditto

Ditto

Thought to be Audubon's Shearwater

Ditto

Ditto

Nazca Booby, new for the trip

The field guide points out that juvenile/immature 'GREAT' Frigatebirds have this 'orange' head colour.