Up to the Alto Plano - Alpaca Country

I now believe you can judge the inhospitable nature of terrain from Google Earth images, it looked bad from the satellite, and in real life a darn sight worse, but what a place for a days 'birding'. Haven't even started sorting my own images out today so guess there will be some delay with this post, but OK for those in UK.

Unusual for this part of the world, the driver was 15 minutes early this morning and complete with his entire family. My first thought was that he intended taking them all along, so got myself fired up for 'their' bad news as we all greeted one another. Not so, it was simply that they all loved Dad so much that they wanted to wish him a good day. The daughter, who was probably only 3, burst into tears as we reved up to go, but that may have had something to do with the son (about 12) being allowed to come with us. I had no problem at all with that as, if I can, It's great to encourage the young into birding. However, the early start had a sting as firstly we stopped for bottled water, then it was petrol, then a newspaper and finally a few sticky buns.

The distance to Reserva National Salinas Aguada Blancas was said to be 22Km, but my guess was nearer 60. OK, after the first 10 'clicks' we hit the desperately bumpy dirt track, which slowed us no end, but still it took us 3 hours to get there. We were in Toyota's version of a Land Rover, whatever it may be called, and it was soon apparent both the height/bulk of the vehicle and the 4 wheel drive, would be the absolute minimum requirement to travel this road. Long before we got anywhere near the Reserve the birds started falling to us, and even though there are still quite a number to confirm identification, Mourning & Black-hooded Sierra-Finch, Golden-billed Saltator, Bare-eyed Dove and what must have been Planalto Hermit entered the log. There is still a little doubt about the latter, being a good way out of the range given in the book, so I'll have to give that another look. The foothills of the Andes really are an exceptional place to be as, while the vegetation is sparse there are many interesting plants, a few mammals and beautiful views of snow capped volcanoes.

Both driver and his son are named Fernando, and long before we reached the sign for the Reserve I was realising what a bonus Junior was. You cannot beat 'young eyes' and this lad, like most of his age, was already picking them off easily and seemed to be enjoying the new venture. Dad also had a keen eye and was first to pick up a pair of Andean Geese and a few Ducks , which appear to be well grown juveniles, I still have to get a grip of. Next he picked up a pair of Vicuna, which I seem to remember are the smallest of the Llama family, as we neared the Salt Lake. There we found just a few Flamingos, all distant but recognisable with half black bills, darker legs and pink knee joints as Chilean, no James' (Puna) unfortunately but at least they are on the World List. By now Junior was following me on my forays and while I did pick up both Pied & Andean Lapwing, it was he who spotted the first Andean Gull. I can tell you my heart was in my mouth as we watched it fly in the direction we had just come, towards the village. We made an effort to catch up with it, but 'effort' is the operative word in that sentence. Walking at sea level I can hold my own with most (perhaps Bomber is the exception there) but this is altitude and my lungs were fighting for the O2. We made it to withing 200 meters of the road when the darn thing took off and headed back from whence we had just arrived. I loosed off a few shots in manual focus, but there not the sort of images I want. Trouble is, with the Gulls in particular, I've been so lucky I think they are all going to be equally obliging. However, I have a plan B up my sleeve.

I had intended taking a shot of the road we had covered, from altitude, but as we started for home the cloud lowered and soon the valleys were filled with mist. Winding isn't the word, and it looked like common practice to cut the journey short by diverting down what are, or were, melt water channels. Can't say as I liked the idea of driving over these loose boulders and sand, and I'm sure some remember how it was put in The Hobbit - Shortcuts make for long delays Gandalf. Yes Mr Baggins, and Inn's make for longer ones. Anyway we negotiated 4 or 5 of these and were none the worse for the experience and in addition going this way I was able to see the terraced cultivation and the ingenious irrigation system. Not to mention the birds. There were hundreds of them, mostly flighty, but a key one that didn't escape us was Mountain Parakeet, a species I thought I had earlier in the trip, but properly identified for me by The Psittacine Kid himself, Dave Penney. You'll have to take my word for this one matey, too far south for Pacific, but unfortunately no photie. At the outskirts of Arequipa we picked Mum and Sister up and the youngster was full of it, despite me not having a clue what was said. Hiring 4x4 with drive isn't cheap but I have had such a fantastic day, seen so much stuff and in fine company, I've decided to go to a place Fernando Senior has suggested, where he has said there are Andean Gulls, so let's hope for an improvement in the photos tomorrow.

PS
The Alpaca was delicious!

Mourning Sierra-Finch

Band-tailed Sierra-Finch

Golden-billed Saltator

Bar-winged Cinclodes

Probably the best capture of the day. A reaction shot as I saw this Greater Yellowfinch take off, another 'lifer' and didn't see another.

A couple of Andean Geese

and another, but honestly I didn't flush it!

Two views of

the Salt Laguna

A part of the village

and some of the Locals

We only saw 3 Andean Gulls all day,

and all were as flighty, and distant as each other.

Me, and the 2 Fernando's above the Salt Lake.

White-throated Sierra-Finch

Vicuna a truely wild animal out here.

and just to show there are no hard feelings, here's a bit of one of his cousins, the Alpaca, that I had for dinner this evening!

800 Without a Brush with Billy Grosso

Well, I made it but only by the skin of my teeth and no way down to careful planing. The overnight journey was nowhere as bad as I thought it might be with the hour and a half, as it turned out, to Ica passing very quickly, and the 2 hour wait filled with a trip to a most well appointed Supermarket. The second leg kicked off at 21-30, with the (mandatory) TV volume down to a tolerable level, no screaming kids and little mobile phone activity - Paradise. Unaware a meal was served, I'd already eaten some roast pork and a couple of apples , while the stewardess was having some difficulty with the menu as far as language is concerned. I have one simple rule when eating in foreign parts, "order what you like, and eat what you get". So, when she offered me Pollo (chicken) the same as the man before I simply said "Si, anything will do". My little adage hasn't accounted for what I got, NADA, I didn't see her again until breakfast! Arriving Arequipa at 09-30, the last part of the trip in daylight gave an opportunity to see the terrain, which in the main was 'moon-scape' punctuated with crop production in fertile valleys, plus I had managed half a dozen hour sleep.

There are several Tourist Information desks at the terminal, and not wanting the bother of going from hotel to hotel, I let the lady in charge do the work. A nice little billet on the edge of the city square, she also fixed me up with a 4 wheel drive and driver for my intended trip to the Parque Nacianal Salinas tomorrow and buses to get me into Chile in 3 days time. I have checked with a couple of tour operators that Andean Gull does occur there, so I have high hopes but will leave it at that. Also, while sussing this part of the trip, via Field Guides and the Internet, it's come to light that 3 species of Flamingo (Chilean, Andean and what I have only ever known as Puna) can be found there. Some web sites are even making comparisons with Africa where only 2 can be seen. Anyway, to the point, it seems some authorities are now calling the latter Jamse's Flamingo, a new one on me but not surprising as the latin name is Phoenicoparrus jamesi.

Soon checked in and business above sorted I was off to the Parque Ecological, just on the edge of town and a 10 minute walk from the hotel. Unfortunately, it was closed. Seems it's only open 3 days a week the rest of the time, today included, they lay aside for irrigation and strimming, and to be fair there is a lot of water flying around, so we wouldn't want anyone getting wet would we? However, it was perfectly fine walking around the perimeters of what is effectively one park cut in half, and not long before finding a pair of Spot-winged Pigeons. Already on my World List I was content knowing just 2 more would bring the Trip Total to 800. That was soon accomplished as 2 'lifers' quickly fell to the log, and both initially overlooked. The first, in flight, was thought to be a Great Thrush and the second 2 Croaking Ground Doves perched in a tree, neither of which according to the book, occur in this part of South America. Closer inspection revealed the true identity as per the updated list. In addition to these, a Sparrow size passerine and a Hummingbird remain unidentified, the latter could have been Andean Hillstar but a bit of a ragged female/juvenile type - lost! That's when the Police turned up. Concerned I was in this area alone, they advised Billigrosso (muggers) were about and I'd do well to head back to the city center. As ALWAYS enquiries were made with both tourist lady and hotel staff on the likelyhood of encountering the afore mentioned Senor Grosso, and they had assured me all would be well. Needless to say I think, I headed for the concrete jungle happy that I had reached this total unscathed.

Trip Numbers Update

SPOT-WINGED PIGEON
CHIGUANCO THRUSH*
GOLDEN -BILLED GROUND DOVE*

Trip Total Species - 800
World 'Lifers' - 526
While 'Endemics remain at - 57

Spot-winged Pigeon, either roosting or preening didn't make for a very good subject.

Chiguanco Thrush (adult female)

Chiguanco Thrush (juvenile)

Chiguanco Thrush (adult female feeding juvenile)

To Arequipa - 800 'Ticks' or Bust

Late afternoon yesterday was spent sorting my onward journey. For about 20 quid I get an overnight coach to Arequipa, but that is via the ancient Nazca city of Ica which is just one hour from here. The connecting bus leaves at 21-30 and should get me to Peru's second or third (depending which view you take) at about noon on Wednesday. I must say, if nothing else, I am looking forward to a large, juicy Alpaca steak once I get there and by then I expect I'll be needing it! All irons remain in the fire, but the Reserva National Salinas, Aguada Blancas looks promising for Andean Gull, but if a place can look forboading on 'Google Earth' then this place does. I know no more about it than, there appears to be a huge lake surrounded by snow capped volcanoes and looks like a fair distance from Arequipa, but then, that's what we're here for isn't it?

As you can see Red-legged Cormorant has joined the list since the last post, a bird that was so common here, has been seen as no more than a 'fly-by', so let's hope for better views in the future. On the way back from the bus terminal (where, on my last day I met Henry Beach the only 'birder' in Paracas) I paid another visit to the saltings and small inlet where yesterdays photographs show the Gulls and Terns to congregate. I haven't given up on Sabine's Gull, but by way of bonus did find some rather handsome, adult Kelp Gulls. In addition there was also a Greater Yellowlegs plodding around, which most obligingly was 'calling' mosy of the time. So, a prediction, I shouldn't have any problem finding one at Lodmoor (whoops, sorry Daragh I meant Radipole) when I get home. To end the day I sat on the sea-front, among the plastic of all descriptions blowing about, watching the sun set below the Pacific Ocean - bet that warms you up a bit, doesn't it?

Lists Update

MANY-COLOURED RUSH-TYRANT
GUANAY CORMORANT
SOOTY SHEARWATER
HUMBOLDT'S PENGUIN
RED-LEGGED CORMORANT

Trip Ticks - 797 (rapidly approaching the 800)

World Lifers - 524

Endemics - 57

Kelp Gull (adult)

Ditto, with some surprising size variation even in the small flock here.

Ditto

Kelp Gull none breeding adult?

Greater Yellowlegs

Isla de la Ballestas

Muster time for the boat to Isla de la Ballestas was 07-45, for an 08-00 departure. In typical South American style we left at 09-00 after so much faffing about, queue at the pier, buy a S/.1 (20pence) 'tax ticket, wait at the root of the pier to have your ticket ripped in half, wait for a life jacket, set sail, return to berth as someone hadn't put their passport number on the manifest, finally get underway! First stop was about 200 meters off-shore, as part of the 75 strong pod of Bottle-nose Dolphins put in an appearance, quite a show even if you have seen them a thousand times before. Then, 20 minutes at seriously high speed to view the Candelabra etched, no-one when, in a high sand dune. It is generally termed the Candelabra but there are a number of theories as to what it really is. If you follow this concept, it's Masonic, while others say a shrouded sign post left by pirates. Or, and the one I like best, a cactus left by indigenous Indians, as their Chief's were given to drinking vast quantities of the juice having a hallucinatory effect which gave them inspiration as to how the community should be run - Ken Kesey eat your heart out!

Finally, we hit top gear again for the 40 minutes to the islands. No landing is allowed for the tourist, the only human activity being by the 'Guano Gatherers', as they still 'crop' the islands for bird dropping as they have for centuries. Nowadays, none of this precious fertiliser is used locally, as the price is prohibitive. Instead the govenment, well aware this is arguably the best manure in the world, only sell to the highest bidder.Along with salt and fish products this (as well as tourism) is the areas highest revenue.

Now I'm sure our regular reader (sic) is sick to death of hearing how it was the last time I was here, but againit has to be said that the bird populations appear to have dwindled dramatically. I remember observing to the Captain on that last visit how black the lava looked from a distance, and he pointing out that it was in fact Cormorants. In the region of 4 million it was estimated, but a decade earlier the number had been nearer 40 million. This time, gone was that black slick, in fact the only adult Guanay Cormorants seen were a few in flight, while juveniles, still reliant on parent birds, were also thin on the ground. It seemed the same for all of the species except Humboldt's Penguin, which were everywhere and breeding seemed to be going well. As well as this being an addition to the Trip List, a single Sooty Shearwater was also seen but with no chance of a photograph.By 11-00 we were back alongside, after what was, despite the moans {observations}, an excellent trip. When we left the sky was completely covered and a cooling breeze was coming in off the sea. Now, it is like an inferno, hence me sitting here doing this, with the temperature somewhere close to 90F. Unfortunately, I have been unable to 'log on' in the hostel even though they have the Internet, so once again this is done on Note Pad to be transferred when I get down to the Cafe later. Tomorrow, I plan to move on and get withing crossing distance of the Chilean border, so that means either Arequipa or Tacna, if I stay in Peru, or maybe even get as far as Arica, we'll see!

As soon as I saw the sign I knew it would be 'home from home' - fits like a glove!

The hacienda until manana.

Candelabra, Masonic Sign, Cactus, Pirate's GPS - the choice is yours.

Ballestas Islands from a distance

Tourist boats in the sea arch.

Guanay Cormorant (adult)

Guanay Cormorant (juvenile with adult)

Guanay Cormorant (adult)

Ballestas Islands

Ditto

Guano loading ramp
Ditto on the next island.

From another angle.

Peruvian Booby (adult)

Ditto

Peruvian Booby (flying juvenile)

Humboldt's Penguin (adult)

Humboldt's Penguin (adult completing moult) I'm told they moult every year, the process taking up to 17 days during which time they stay ashore, so by definition don't feed.

Humboldt's Penguin (juvenile)

Paradise Lost??

The bus strike was indeed over, so a 50p Tuk Tuk ride got me to the Terminal Terrestrial and soon on my way to Lima. Not the most beautiful city in the world, and may probably qualify as the worst, but luck again was on my side. The manager at the bus depot spoke fluent English, and recommended I take the 1st Class service to Paracas. The plan had been to center myself on Pisco, but Paracas is where any wildlife action is so was glad to be advised. The seats may have been comfortable, but that was about all. First there was a safety brief, in both Spanish and English, that lasted a full half hour. This was followed by another 30 minutes of trailers for up-coming films, and finally a movie featuring homosexual American firemen, all at the loudest volume available. I asked the steward to turn it down, which he said would make it inaudible to those upstairs, but did a bit, and despite my ear-plugs it was a nightmare throughout. It's back to the 'chicken buses' for this kid!

Regardless, I got to Paracas at 18-00 (the 4 hours programmed) and within 15 minutes had check-in to a hostel, arranged a desert tour for today, and the boat trip to the Balastas Islands tomorrow. In addition I very nearly updated yesterdays post, but the god's just weren't with me on that one. Unable to get 'on-line' with the lap top, I resorted to using the hostels link and equipment, but that meant getting a means to transfer the photographs from my LT to their computer. With no memory stick, a disc was all that was available, but after the effort of up-loading their drive wouldn't read my disc.

On to today. At 06-00 I was once again on the fore-shore, where much had changed since my last visit. There was always a Km of sand to which the holiday makers stuck, and then for the rest of the bay it was a craggy rock coast-line. Now I find a huge hotel has been built at the end of the sand, with officially no access to the likes of me, then there are 'holiday homes' for about a mile. Unfortunately, these have been built almost to the 'high water mark' and much of the rubble has been piled on top of the existing natural rocks. This seems to have reduced the number of birds to 'a tenth' of what we experienced here before, so who knows where the Aves have gone. I guess another part of Paradise lost?

After a decent breakfast, all in with the £10's per night, I went on a 'Grockle' Tour to the Paracas National Nature Reserve, which is almost completely desert. Having said that, much of it is very interesting and given we had a good guide the day and the money were well spent. The peninsular that makes up the reserve is surrounded by sea on 3 sides, and once you reach the ocean, you also reach the birds. There were many 'thousands' at various points including Elegant, Royal and Sandwich Terns, 4 species of Gull, lots of Peruvian Pelicans and Booby plus a large colony of Inca Terns. The only addition to the Trip List only was Guanay Cormorant, which was photographed from a distance, but also caught up with photographing a 'whole' Black Oystercatcher. By far the best sight, was watching a car full of hooligans taking a 'short cut' across what looked like pristine desert, but fortunately for the onlookers it was quicksand. 'Quick' was the by-word as in what seemed like seconds the car was immersed to half way up the door panels, so all in all a very good day.

Re-acquainted with the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow, which, despite its ubiqitousness has been absent for several days.

I just couldn't help adding this fine

adult Grey Gull

Prawn to Spotted Sand - Check Mate (for one of them) I think?

It'll be many a day before an Oystercatcher chisels a limpet off one of these building bricks!

Peruvian Pelicans on the Pier

Royal Tern

Just a small proportion of the birds that used to be here!

Yes, it was those 'fishermen' that flushed the flock.

Paracas seen from the hill.

The Independence Tower, supposedly depicting the colours of the national flag. I'm sure the flag's maroon each side and white down the center?

The so called Cathedral Rock, which was the epicenter of the recent earthquake at 8.3 on the Richter Scale.

The coast looking north

Peruvian Booby Colony

Inca Tern Colony

Black Oystercatcher

Peruvian Pelican

Peruvian Booby (detail head shot)

Hey Honeychild, get you beak outa ma Pot Mess!