NO! - I Don't Like to be Beside THIS Seaside.

If there's one thing you gain from these 'long haul' coach journeys, it's the sense of just how vast these counties are. Even what I described as the town of San Rafael took a full 20 minutes to clear, before once again finding ourselves in the vast fruit growing region of Mendoza. In the main grapes for wine, it was interesting to note the different techniques of growing just these plants. What may be described as the traditional French, Italian etc way of training the vines up 45 degree supports, attracting the optimum amount of sunlight, but here there were other options I had not seen before. Many were grown vertically up the supports, while others formed a canopy above the forest of props, beneath which a child could easily walk. Mile after mile of this fertile pasture eventually gave way to 'bush country' which along its full length was fenced in by 5 strand barbed wire. How many miles this followed heaven knows, but it continued into rough grassland and then cattle country. How many head of stock we passed would only be an estimate, but it had to be 'hundreds of thousands? Later, and as the sun set behind us there were other crops, again in enormous proportions, with one single sunflower field stretching over more than 5Km, according to the roadside markers. There were many birds also, mostly small 'passerines', with various Pigeons featuring strongly as did good numbers of Chimango Caracara, and we had now reached Southern Crested Caracara country. Like Carolina and Northern Chickadee in the US, who knows where the line is drawn and for that matter, who can tell the difference? Apart from these, the only others that were identifiable were Long-tailed Flycatcher, Southern Lapwing and at 2 most fortuitous stops a re-encounter with Ash-coloured Cuckoo and Pampas Meadow (a 'lifer') both showing well.

I was still in doubt about our ETA, as chiefy at the bus station had simply written 8hr on my slip of paper, which I read to mean the number of hours the journey would take. It was rapidly approaching 22-00 as we stopped at a retaurant for passengers to eat, but despite yet another inquiry I was still no wiser as we took off again. At mid-night, and another stop, the driver finally indicated that I should sleep and raised 8 fingers to indicate we would arrive at 08-00. It was nearer 09-00, but who's counting as we arrived at yet another huge town and with a good deal of language difficulty finally found myself a seedy hotel. I decided on 2 night, asked about the birds and the Internet, to be told both were absent. Undeterred, I set off down the sea front, much like Bournemouth only lots bigger, and was already feeling decidedly uncomfortable about the place. Beginning to think the ladies at the hotel were right, I did see an immature, large Gull with a 'banded' tail so began to think my luck was in. Long-tailed Flycatcher and Southern Lapwing were both seen again and in the distance there were a good number of Gulls but all inside the Naval Base. With no chance of access, I had already walked about 6 miles so wasn't going to give up now. The closer, the more I considered they could be Olrog's, and finding a way to a part of the Dockyard under repair I just kept walking and wasn't challenged. I had loosed off about half a dozen shots before it dawned on me that these were in fact Kelp Gulls, in addition to which there were Franklin's, Grey and Grey-hooded but no sign at all of the much sort after Olrog's Gull. It was most definitely a bus back as it was now around the late 80'sC and that's when I made the decision to move on tomorrow. Concrete and glass do it for some people but not me, and while as far as holiday resorts go this is all very nice, I'm out of here.

As a footnote:- I found the Naval Base very interesting, especially the Submarines and the small Corvette with 'all hands mustered for Divisions', in best whites (No 6's as they were known in the RN). I have something of a complex about the Argentinian's, and especially the Navy after the debacled of Los Malvinas which, as I have rambled on enough for one day, will enter into at a later date!

LONG-TAILED FLYCATCHER
SOUTHERN CRESTED CARACARA
ASH-COLOURED CUCKOO
PICAZURO PIGEON
PAMPAS MEADOWLARK*
GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD
RED-LEGGED SERIEMA* c2 stood in a field, with bus at almost stop. We had encountered these, in captivity, in the largest aviary I have ever seen. This was at Iguassu Falls in 2003, when there had been yet another border dispute and one side wasn't going to open the road until the other did. We eventually access the Falls, but if it had not been for the above dispute, would have missed this sight. Although close to the Waders, this large, red-legged, crested monster looks far more like a Secretarybird to me than anything else. No photos I'm afraid.

The Tale to Date

Trip Species - 861
World Lifers - 562
Endemics - 57

Long-tailed Flycatcher

Chilean Mockingbird

Southern Lapwing

Ringed 'First Winter' Kelp Gull (unless you can make it something beginning with 'O'?

I could only make any of them Kelp Gulls

As far as we under-water mob are concerned, there are only 2 types of Ship!

'Submarines' and 'Targets'!

A small Corvette holding 'Divisions' of some kind.

What I think is an Antarctic Survey Vessel ahead of 2 small Frigates.

Floating Dock - don't you just love 'em? Last one I saw was in Simonstown, South Africa, last one I was in was aboard HM S/M Porpoise, Portsmouth Dockyard 170.

Oh I Do Like to be Beside the Seaside

In Ecuador, £30 would buy you a house, here in Argentina that's what I paid for B&B last night. What I was really in need of was a peaceful, quiet and relaxed nights sleep (after the continuous din of Santiago) and for the money, well spent, I got it. However, that done it only took a glance at the map to realise just how long the stay here would be - very short! The map showed no green areas at all within the bounds of the town, and after a chat with the receptionist it was clear that the nearest nature reserve was 35Km away, about £35 in a cab as there are no buses.

After a reasonable breakfast and a call at the ATM a ticket was booked for the onward journey. Not really fond of 'sea watching', I am always best suited to the coast so at 16-00 on a 'luxury' coach it's Mar del Plata for this kid. For those following progress via Google Maps or the atlas, it's east along the coast from Bahia Blanca and I think 700Km or so south on the coast road from Buenos Aires.

I don't know why, but being high in the Andes I though San Rafael was going to be full of Inca, sat round little fires selling Llama products to the tourists. First of all, there are no tourists but me, and this is a town bigger than Weymouth. Wall to wall shops, I was soon out of it and taking one or two side streets soon came upon a small park. Small was the word, almost postage stamp, but already I could hear a few birds. House and Rufous-collared Sparrows were first on the scene, then a trip addition, Rufous Hornero, that I have become well acquainted with on other trips. One of the Ovenbirds it builds a domed nest of clay, often perched on a bare branch or telegraph pole, and as is usual very evident around here. Others previously encountered this trip included, Great Kiskadee, Cattle Tyrant, Spot-winged Pigeon, Monk Parakeet, Great Hummingbird and Eared Dove, while other additions for the trip were Creamy-bellied Thrush, Picui Ground-Dove and the stunning Blue-and-Yellow Tanager. There was also a 'World Lifers', of a 'family group' I don't recall, a Brown Cacholote which means this cannot be a bad place.

So, I'm just sitting out the last couple of hours before the coach here in the hotel, and hoping tomorrow to bring you photographs of Olrog's Gull. Who Knows?

List Update

CHESTNUT (STEINBACH'S) CANASTERO*

WHITE-THROATED HAWK*

RUFOUS-NAPPED GROUND-TYRANT*

YELLOW-BRINDLED FINCH*

RUFOUS HORNERO

CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH

BROWN CACHOLOTE*

PICUI GROUND-DOVE

BLUE-AND-YELLOW TANAGER

Trip List - 855
Life List - 560
Endemics - 57

Blue-and-Yellow Tanager

Not the best shots of a difficult to photograph bird, but hey what a beauty?

Creamy-bellied Thrush

Rufous Hornero

Great Kiskadee

Picui Ground-Dove (male)

Picui Ground-Dove (female)

Not a Lot to Write Home About

Today's title probably doesn't do my day justice, because as far as seeing the countryside is concerned you could be in much worse places. The day started at about 04-00 when I was woken by a disturbance outside. Looking down from the third floor window, overlooking the park, there was a crowd of about 100 people, all well behaved, chatting away and overseen by 2 police officers in a patrol car. Sleeping for another 2 hours and waking on the alarm, the same crowd were in attendance but the police presence had grown 7 fold. Mine host kindly got me a taxi and explained this was just a normal 'end of the party' gathering before calling it a day. I had to ask why so many police and it seems it's a 'zero tolerance' sort of place but the coppers were just doing simerlaly to the public and having a get together before going off shift. Fortunately, nothing sinister and I got to the Bus Station at 07-15 (with ticket) as planned. Leaving Santiago at 07-30 it was only a short half hour before we started to head into the foothills of the Andes, from there it was pure paradise. Shear cliffs, high hills and fast flowing streams for the best part, with a few recognisable birds including several Chimango Caracara, dozens of Black-winged Dove while most abundant were their larger cousins true Rock Doves. Gaining altitude, the poor old bus was feeling the strain but with no hurry to get anywhere this proved to great advantage as 2 or 3 Rufous-napped Ground Tyrant were easily identified, followed later by small flocks of Yellow-brindled Finch. Both of these are 'world lifers', and mores the pity I didn't have the camera to hand as the males of the latter were decidedly stunning.

It was 14-00 by the time we reached Mendoza, a little longer than I had estimated, but the 90 minute stop over gave me a chance to get a coffee and change some money. El Cambio was the same office as the bus line I was using, and having slightly over egged the custard with the Chilean pesos I had about 40 quids worth to chance. I was expecting a bit of a fall, but it seemed the rate was up as instead of the calculated 320 Argentinian pesos I received 350. The next leg, onward to San Raphael, started with confusion as each ticket holder was alocated a seat. Unfortunately, most of the numbers on the bus were missing so for once I was not the only one dazed. There were plenty of seats anyway and right on time we started out on a journey that should have reached destination at 19-00. We hadn't even left town before we broke down, but it may have been that they were carrying a mechanic or that one showed up in lightning time, but the repair was soon underway and fixed. This part of the run was totally different from the first which was dominated by high hills and mountains, we were now on the 'high plains'. Here, almost no vegetation gave way to mile after mile of rough scrub, a few fertile areas plus dozens of vineyards. We arrived a little late, but what's an hour between friends, at San Raphael which is a small and prosperous looking town, obviously much dependant on wine. Along the way there such names as Chandon and Mumm and I feel sure neither Champagne house would lend their name lightly to another vintner? In part I had a bit of a heavy heart, because I have only ever had one bottle of what might be called 'fine' Argentinian wine, when Tony Laithewaite sent me a bottle of Alma Viva as a gift. Not wishing to spout, but to fashion the story, I had no idea about this wine but soon discovered the Bordega was a collaberation between Baron Phillipe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi and this gift was worth about £50. When it arrive, I thought I'd been lucky to receive a 'magnum', but due to the thickness of the glass the bottle only appeared oversize and was in fact a bog standard 75cl. Laying it down for maybe a special occasion, the moment arrived when I was invited, via a friend, to dine with strangers and thought 'the bottle' would fit the bill. Meeting the people for the first time on the day before the dinner, the wine was handed over with the suggestion that it may be best opened the next day some hours before dinner. When you give, you give but I have to admit to getting mildly (to say the least) excited at the prospect of trying this wine, and by the time we sat down I was shaking. I didn't expect it to appear at the 'starter' but when it didn't appear half way through the beef, I gentley enquired as to its whereabouts. "Oh", answered mine host " we thought it was rather a good bottle, so decided to save it for whatever her f**ging name was"! So, stand advised by an Aging Fool, only ever take the Lemonade to strangers!

To end todays epistle, I have decided to leave out the town of General Pico (sounds totally uninspiring) and the next move will be the 8 hours to the coast. First intent was to try Bahia Blanca but that too sounds a little industrial and large so will make for Mar del Plata some miles north of the latter. This will either be tomorrow or the next day but either way there is only one bus per day and that's the 16-00 meaning a mid-night arrival.

Talk soon!

PS

The 2 raptors from a couple of days ago, that remained unidentified, are thought to be one and the same species. After some investigation I can only get them down to White-throated Hawk, firstly, an adult seemingly in some stage of moult, and second, a juvenile. With the benefit of hindsight they did seem to be associating with one another so that at least fits.

adult White-throated Hawk

White-throated Hawk (juvenile)

Complete Change, a Post Without the 'B' Word!

If you choose to travel independently, make no concrete plans and have nothing more in your back pocket than a return flight and a few quid, then at some stage you are going to hit a snag! That has been the case today, and with the idea of wakening without the aid of the alarm I took a £4 taxi ride to the Terminal de Buses at 07-00. Destination San Rafael (in the high Andes) via Mendoza, not one of the 3 carriers had a vacant seat. Lesson, always have a plan 'B'. Quickly returning to the same hotel, before they stripped the bed, I had a breakfast outstanding so got the coffee, plus eggs and toast, then decided to re-visit the city. Last time I doubt I gave it due cover, but with the whole day to spare I could now do it justice. The only target would be to buy a 'postage stamp' to Europe, otherwise just relax and enjoy the sights. Poi Nono, the Street and area in which I am staying, could be described as the Soho of Santiago but only in the looses sense. At night, the pavement cafes are overflowing, there is a Disco each and the drums and other music continues (LOUDLY) until daylight. During the day it's quite another story as owners clear up the debris, wash endless numbers of glasses and hose down the beer-bar medals spewed onto the sidewalks.

It was through this street scene I made my way to the river, which is more a funnel for the endless Andean 'melt waters' which at the moment are only at about a quarter spate but nevertheless constitutes a 'torrent'. Here too, are a succession of bridges, something I have always had a silent passion for, but not to be confused with the Ponts de Paris. In the main, pre-cast concrete and twisted wrought iron and the occasional iron girder, none of which will be memorable, but have to admit to a short session of playing Pooh Sticks! Along the way were a few average monuments and statues but again underwhelming, with the same being true of the buildings. Believing that nothing is all bad, the avenues of trees, mostly a species of Maple, were outstanding as was the arboreal diversity in the few small parks en-route.

Eventually, after a few inquiries, I got the stamp then sat in one of the parks drinking fresh pineapple juice and singing Nothing Else Matters - Metallica (those at my 60th party will know I need the practice), Tweeter and the Monkeyman, God Gave Rock 'n' Roll to You and excerpts from Dark Matter the fabulous album by Southampton band IQ. Because of the vast numbers of stray dogs across the whole of this Sub-Continent, I took to counting them on the way back. The walk took about 90 minutes, and in all I counted 53 and that was without entering the Parque de Central where there are dozens more. I also noted that on the up side to this city they have Metallica playing here on 20th of this month (OK so long as they don't play anything from the Saint Anger album), Tom Jones on 27th and The Cranberries the following night. And to close today's epistle. again on the subject of music, the other evening I was waxing lyrical about my latest discovery, guitarist Joe Bonamassa, to a young lady from the US and her father. Unfortunately for them, the lap-top was at hand so logged on to his web-site and gave them a snatch of 'The Ballard of John Henry', sensational stuff! In so doing, I discovered that he is embarking on a World Tour in the very near future and one of the gigs is at the Bournemouth International Center (BIC) in May.

BE THERE, OR BE THE OTHER THING!

It is suggested that if you are already 'totally bored' or are suffering from Hypertension, best not venture beyond this point.

A bridge and a river, plus if you look really closely you can see me!

A monument to 'Liberty' complete with fire-arms.

Some of the newer buildings in Santiago.

Monument to someone who must be famous, somewhere.

The City Square

Another view of the City Square

Ille Kallaste (2010)

Ille's latest creation which I just have the need to show. I think there is something of the Odilon Redon (a great favourite eh Tess?) about this piece?

Odilon Redon (1840 - 1916)

The 'High Andes' Await

Unfortunately, my diversionary project is rapidly loosing momentum and as I use this extra day, in part, to assess the situation I feel it's best you know when to give in. The idea was to shoot off to Easter Island for 3 days, so made some investigations on the net for today's flights. With only 'Business Class' available the price was a prohibitive $3,690. It was always going to be pricey, and I had made a mental threshold of 'a grand' sterling but even tomorrow the best I could drum up was $1,700. What may be the final straw was meeting a similar aged couple, from of all places Tallinn, Estonia, who coincidentally were flying to the island tomorrow. Toomas and Eha Vetevool went on to tell me how they had booked both flight ($650) and accommodation 6 months ago when, even then, all hotels were close to full. So, I'll have to leave it at that and start my journey to cross the Andes tomorrow instead! That in itself could produce a degree of discomfort as I know at these much higher altitudes not only are the lungs going to take a pounding, but the temperature, especially at night, is also going to fall dramatically. Good job then that I have the old faithful Antarctic jacket, which as a 'freebie' from that cruise, has turned out to be the best coat of that type I have ever owned. With large 'poacher' style pockets it is handy for reducing baggage weight (only cabin baggage for this kid) by stuffing them with the heavy stuff such as Field Guides and toiletries. It also doubles as a great pillow, blanket, groundsheet and on one occasion a tent. Since starting my solo travels, only once has a bag gone into the hold. Mostly inspired by one of my mentors, Captain Tony MacKinder, who always said "take twice the money, half the luggage", there was also another pointer I remember from many years ago. Walking through London in the days of B.O.A.C. Airline, I noted a huge hording with a shiny Comet flying through a blue sky. In bold letters it said 'Fly B.O.A.C. breakfast in London, dinner in New York', while some wag had written below it 'Baggage in Barbados'!

With an extra night booked here and no rush to get going, I was once again in the Parque National at 07-00. More of the same seemed the order of the day but the California Quails and Austral Blackbirds were a little more sympathetic to the Canon, resulting in some better images. I walked the 2 miles to the far control point, adding nothing to the list, then starting back found a flock of feeding Black-throated Siskins which are an addition to the Trip List. Later, there was a Spinetail / Canastero which still remains unidentified but with a pretty good description on the dictaphone I hope to clinch that before the day is out. Almost reaching the steps that lead down to the main gate, the air was suddenly filled with the alarm calls of small birds. Unfortunately, a fence was blocking the view, but considerately someone had erected a crash barrier next to it. Climbing onto this I was immediately greeted by the sight of a small Owl perch, some distance away, in a large tree. Observing it for a full 10 minutes, as it was continuously hassled by passerines, and getting some distant shots before it flew off, I could only think it would be either Rufous or Ferruginous Pygmy Owl both of which I have seen before. Via the Field Guide I discover that neither of these occur in Chile, so really as much a process of geographical elimination, it was singled out to be an Austral Pygmy Owl. In my book an Owl of any description, on any trip is a massive bonus, but a 'lifer' to boot - nice one. So, I headed back to the hotel, more for brunch than breakfast, insodoing bumping into the Estonian visitors on the way. It just made such a difference to meet someone from Ille's home town, and talk to them about places she and I have visited together.

Finally, another question for Senor Parrot. I note from the definitive Chile Bird List that Monk Parakeet doesn't even appear, while other 'introduced species' do. While I feel confident of the identification and know how quickly this Psit can colonise, it would be good to get confirmation.

Male California Quail, showing very well this morning.

Part of a family party of c9, with a further, seemingly detached, group of c5 skulking in the undergrowth.

It seemed most unusual to see a pair of Southern Lapwing perched on a factory roof.

Black-chinned Siskin, an addition to the 'Trip List'.

All other Siskins of the region, except for Black which is as the name suggests, have full black 'cowls'

Tufted Tit-Tyrant, in a poor photograph not showing 'tufts' as they do in real life.

If I'd had the privilege of naming this bird, I think it would be Lucifer's Tit-Tyrant. Although only a tiny thing, all seem to keep 'tufts' erect at all times and are, extremely mobile, little Devil's to see.

Austral Pygmy-Owl

A great addition to the 'World List' but according to some authorities, still a sub-species of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl?

Eha & Toomas Vetevool from Tallinn, Estonia.

'Birding' Santiago

Santiago is, by comparison with most South America capital cities, ver small. That also goes for the 'tourist center' which appears less than a square mile. That may not be a bad thing this year, as like other places along the way numbers of visitors have been much reduced. However, my main objective this morning was making an early start at the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago, a wooded area I knew nothing about. Again at 06-30 I was listening for new sounds and calls, the most distinctive and numerous coming from flocks of Austral Blackbird, a species I hadn't seen previously.The same can be said for a lone Tufted Tit-Tyrant that put in a brief appearance, but not long enough to capture the image. It was good to start the day with a brace of 'lifers', but next came a conundrum, while out of range according to this book, I feel the Thrushes I was recording were Slaty, with very few being the resident Chiguanco, so until otherwise convinced I'll stick with the first option (good opportunity to get the 'Thrushes book out Dave!). Breakfast starts at 09-00 and while that wasn't the most important consideration of the day, I did restrict myself to the lower level of the Parque albeit a good number of steps above street level. There I found 2 raptors that for now remain unidentified, along with 3 California Quail and a pair of Chamango Caracara, while somewhere in the distance there was the raucous chatter of Parrots. The day had started very well!

After 2 slices of toast and a cup of coffee, advertised as breakfast, I was back again this time to take the funicular to even higher ground. Up in 'the gods' there was precious little sign of any life let alone birds, and as the day got hotter and I followed the long and winding road it seemed like I had returned to a different place. In my customary 'navigator' way I took a wrong turning and when reaching the bottom of the hill found I was 2Km from where I wanted to be. Front and center a Fast Black. Seemingly more expensive here, especially when you get seen off, the fare was £2, but worth it as one, the day was now roasting and twp, the Parrots were calling close by. A gang of about 30 Monk Parakeets awaited me. and if my memory serves this is the only Psittacine that builds a nest and does so communally? After a lunch of fine Chilean beef steak, mashed potato and coffee I spent the rest of the day lazing. Where I am staying is in the heart of Boogieville and despite the ear plugs the 'war drums' could still be heard at 04-30.

Never mind, a new day tomorrow and one in which I mean to branch out and try a real adventure. If it comes off it should be a great moment in my travelling life, if it doesn't, nothing ventured nothing gained!

WATCH THIS SPACE!

'Lists Update'

GOLDEN-SPOTTED GROUND-DOVE*

WHITE-WINGED CINCLODES*

ANDEAN HILLSTAR*

PUNA MINER*

LESSER (PUNA) RHEA*

GIANT COOT

AMERICAN GOLDEN PLOVER

BURROWING OWL

PERUVIAN THICK-KNEE*

AUSTRAL BLACKBIRD*

TUFTED TIT-TYRANT*

CHIMANGO CARACARA

CINERIOUS HARRIER

MONK PARAKEET

SLATY THRUSH*

CHILEAN MOCKINGBIRD*

PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND-DOVE

CHILEAN SWALLOW*

CALIFORNIA QUAIL

WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA*

CINERIOUS HARRIER

Trip Total - 845
World Lifers - 554
Endemics - 57


Andean Hillstar nest, unfortunately the parent birds were not seen to return.

Overlooking Santiago, Chile

Parque Metropolatano de Santiago

White-crested Elaenia

showing a little more of its usually hidden treasures.

Being claimed, until further checks are made

as Slaty Thrush

The streaking on the throat points to Slaty Thrush

California Quail (male)

California Quail (female)

You said I'd have another Dave and here it is (also species as predicted). Just as a matter of interest, this is also on my Derbyshire List, as Andy Lindsay and I 'clocked' one when Barbel fishing on the Derwent some years ago!

Monk Parakeet - back

front

and center

Chilean Mockingbird

Austral Blackbird

Plain-breasted Ground-Dove

Unidentified Raptors

if anyone can help,

it would be very useful.

Thank You!