Eureka - Or Have I?

There's a lot of German influence about Pinamar, for instance I am staying at the Berlin Hotel, but for what it is, a seaside resort, its quite nice! I don't know where the cartographers get the 'A' at the end of the name, but there is no reference to it here. There are lots of little bars, restaurants and clubs, some made to look Alpine, while just across the road there is the best Deli I've ever been in. The landlady, who's mother (in attendance) was born in Buenos Aires which must have been close to the outbreak of WWII, has been helpfulness itself and today suggested I go to Carilo where, she said, there is less human activity and more wild beaches. Just 12Km south, the local bus got me there for 9 'o' clock and while there was plenty of Grockle paraphernalia to be seen, so far there were few people about. From the bus to La Playa (The Sea - look almost fluent) was a walk of about one kilometer, between some of the nicest houses I have ever seen. Like yesterday built in the heart of a Pine/Eucalyptus forest, the predominant feature were the Monk Parakeets. Not 'hundreds, but 'thousands' with their huge, communal nests built in at least 50% of the trees. Again my landlady had a comment about this, saying they used to be content with the Pines but in recent years have favoured the Eucalyptus. She chuckled when she told me that many of the nests become too heavy for the trees, and also in high winds they come crashing to the ground. The mirth was raised by tales of a number of human near misses.

Already the deckchairs were being laid out and beach huts opening, but as I hit the waterline I was just in time to see a Pomarine Skua relieve a Gull-billed Tern of its breakfast, so considered this a good omen for the rest of the day. Not a lot of activity to seaward, but the unexpected appearance of a Fork-tailed Flycatcher, also at the waterline, gave a little entertainment. A little further on Gulls were starting to appear, but only Grey-hooded, and so were the humans. A real bonus came with a small party of Snowy-crowned Tern preening close to the sand dunes, but that was short lived with the arrival of 63 quad-bikes. Of course I counted them, there was nothing else to do! After walking about 6 clicks, the first Black-backed Gull turned up. OK it was flying and it was high but it was an adult and definitely had a 'banded tail', all that was needed now was for it to settle. It didn't, and nor did the c4 that followed it, but even futher ahead there were large Gulls on the beach. This is when the frustration set in. Every time I close almost to camera distance there was a disturbance, I'd been constantly looking for humans and dogs and there seemed to be none about. First it was a woman jogger, then another woman decided to let her pets loose at the crucial moment, and then a wayward quad. Was I ever going to get my shot. Each time of course it sent the birds further along the beach, and at what turned out to be the final effort I politely asked a gentleman walker if he could divert his track and give me a chance. Despite the language barrier he knew just what I was up to and allowed me to produce the 'limited' photographs below.

For those of you who are interested (pay attention Julie & Lisa this means you) an update on my little quirk of wanting to see all the Gull species in the world. None have been added this trip, with just 3 outstanding being Relict Gull (China, Mongolia, Korea), Yellow-footed Gull (Baja California) and Red-legged Kittiwake (Pribilof Islands, Bearing Sea), little job for when I have a week-end to spare. However, having recouped Swallow-tailed, Lava, Grey and Grey-hooded Gulls, to the lens, since having my back-pack (including films) nicked in Bolivia, I now believe there is a real chance of photographing them all as well. Apart from the 3 already mentioned, 3 of the remaining 4, Sabine's, Ivory and Ross's Gulls could be photographed in the UK. That just leaves Heerman's.

Should be moving on tomorrow, but not sure where as yet. The Lake Lands sound attractive but seem a bit awkward to get to. So, will seek some more advice in the morning and let you know.

POMARINE SKUA
SNOWY-CAPPED TERN
OLROG'S GULL

Trip Ticks - 872
World Lifers - 563
Endemics - 57

PS - Welcome aboard as 'Followers' Ginge and Val, my shipmate from HMS Undaunted days (1967) and his lovely lady. There is certainly going to be a visitor to Northmoor Park before the years out, so lock up your daughters. Great to hear from you both. Yours aye etc.

Just a small one of many Monk Parakeet nest.

One bird I didn't expect to find on the beach,

this Fork-tailed Flycatcher was having a Hay Day with these Beetles. What you might call Rain

or Bloody-nose Beetles were everywhere below the high-water mark, don't know what they do when the tide comes in?

and this I feel sure is

Olrog's Gull. Compared, at the time and with photographs of juvenile Kelp Gulls it looks just right

A good deal smaller, it has that petite look Lesser Black-backed has against Great Black-back and lacks the 'brutish' look of Kelp.

It also has the long, narrow bill with full sub-terminal band, but with lack of literature I remain open to correction.

A nifty group of Snowy-crowned Terns had the odd

Yellow-billed Tern among them, (and Gull-billed which I didn't get at)

but all were regularly being put to flight

by these! Is there any hope or the Planet?

And maybe someone would like to try identifying this, taken a few days ago a little further down the coast.

I only have a few line drawings in this book which soon merge into a solid haze.

"Ticking Away the Moments That Make Up a Dull Day, You Fritter and Waste the Hours in an Off-Hand Way"

Opting to miss the 08-00 breakfast in preference to an early departure, proved to be a lucky decision. Arriving at the Bus Station at 07-00 found there was a bus to Pinamara in 30 minutes time, the next being at 16-00. About 150Km I'd chosen the smaller, and nearer, of 2 coastal towns as looking at Google Maps appeared to be closer to the lakes. Again luckily I found my seat to be 'pole position', upstairs at the from with full panoramic windows. Soon clear of what must be described as 'the City' of Mar del Plata, we followed the coast road, rarely loosing sight of the Atlantic Seaboard, soon meeting the coastal plains. here the terrain is divided between grazing pasture and crop production, with Sunflowers being predominant. There were also lots of birds, including Gulls, but I could only make any of these Kelp, Franklin's and Grey-hooded. The only avian highlight came by way of a Southern Screamer, stood in a waterlogged field, and later a second flying fairly close to the coach. By size alone, small Turkey, this species is not difficult to recognise, the only confusion species being Red-legged Seriema, which is a lot leaner and taller.

We arrived at Pinamara at 09-30 and very quickly I was whisked off to the Hotel Berlin which stands just 450 meters from the beach. Unfortunately, I'm in the same situation here as I was back in mar del Plata, the first 2 photos giving some idea of the 'birding' prospects. However, it is a little unfair to include the words 'Dull Day' in the title, but I seem to be having a bit of a Pink Floyd moment today, I just don't want to miss any of it. I think it's a bit of the 'spoilt child' syndrome, too much, too often. Having watched 3 Terns, with yellow bills, fishing a good way off-shore I decided to turn inland and try my luck in the distant pine forest. At least that's what it looked like, but on closer inspection it was a complex of very expensive looking houses where they had cut out the heart of the forest.

All along the way the same Terns, that could also be seen to have yellow legs, occasionally flew overhead, seemingly backwards and forwards to an inland site. This according to the book, is typical of Yellow-billed Tern, so a further addition to the Trip List. Brown-chested Martin were also seen in good numbers, with some utilising the redundant nest of a Rufous Hornero. The only other species on offer were Monk Parakeet, aplenty, Chimango Caracara and Guira Cuckoo, one of which was seen to catch a small snake but quickly headed off to a thick bush, more out of the way of the Caracara than me. It seemed a movement of Monarch Butterflies was underway, plus a number of others, but none obliging enough to stop for a photo, unlike the very attractive Dragonfly. By noon I was ready to return, for what was close to another 2 hours walking, and stopping again at the beach (glutton for punishment) saw 2 Gull-billed Terns drop in to feed and a Peregrine heading fast and high to the north.

The first views of Pinamara Beach, north, then south.

"I remember thinking to myself this could be Heaven,

or this could be Hell!" Yes, that must be an Olrog's Gull in the sky above the blue umbrella!

Brown-chested Martin, at 17cm quite a big Hirundine, with an extremely sweet song.

In flight take on the appearance of a tailless Bee-eater.

Another one for you Sheila (and Bowie of course)

Unidentified Dragonfly

A bit better image of Southern Lapwing.

Perhaps another new species not yet described to science. If accepted intend calling this one Southern LapLEG. Becoming increasingly rare, it can be seen that nature has blessed this creature with a missing starboard leg. Only allowing for feeding in one direction and in ever decreasing circles, usually ending with the total disappearance of the bird!

I first saw this video with David Ascanio when in Venezuela, and meant to upload it at the time. By lucky coincidence my newly re-found childhood friend John Wood also came across it and sent it to me. I would certainly like to have been there at the time!

List Updates

SOUTHERN SCREAMER
YELLOW-BILLED TERN
GULL-BILLED TERN

Trip Species - 869
World Lifers - 563

Start with Floyd, end with Floyd.

Tired of lying in the sunshine, stay at home and watch the rain.
You are young and life is long, and there is time to kill today.
And then one day you'll find, 10 years have got behind you.
No-one told you when to run, you missed the 'Starting Gun'.

With A Little Help From My (New Found) Friends

One simple rule of thumb as far as being a traveler and making plans are concerned, DON'T! No sooner had I pocketed tonight's rent, I was setting about handing it back to the hotel. Remember the 'freebie' on Galapagos and the 4 young Argentinians I met up with? Well, got a Comment on the Blog yesterday from Frenzo one of the 2 lads, suggesting, as I'm so near, going to Sierra de los Padres. Without a clue what to expect I returned to the hotel where ex-pat New Yorker Carlos has been help itself. He agreed that there should be birds there, and that it is a beautiful wild place. Only 20 miles up the coast, and the bus stop just around the corner there was no point in rushing off further north.

Another thing I've noticed, the first Mate (the E of Mate should have an 'accent' but I do preliminary notes on Notepad, and am simply not clever enough to do this) bowls, cups, mugs, whatever you like to call them have started to appear. All through the highlands, the illegal beverage Coca is preferred, but there seems to be no special vessel for drinking it from. Here, things are very much different with this 'tea like' drink only being drunk from a favored cup. These can be extremely ornate, and I think like Japanese 'Netsukes' are collectible and can be valuable? The concoction is drunk through an equally ornate metal 'straw', one of which I have at
home somewhere, with a built in filter at the wet end. I'm expecting to see more the further north I go, and in Uruguay it is rare to see a man (it doesn't seem to be a female thing) walking down the street without his 'little comforter'.

An excellent call Frenzo, Sierra de los Padres was just as you described, a beautiful, tranquil village that gave me the impression of a lot of Swiss influence? In the main large, individually designed house with equally big gardens with masses of vegetarian. The fare for a ride of 20 miles was 40 pence, but concern was setting in as the first 15 miles was through a 'concrete jungle'. Just as despair was about to take over we made a right turn off the motorway, and started winding our way along narrow country roads. On the way I was thinking if I only got a photograph of Chimango Caracara (of which there were plenty) and maybe a Pigeon or two I would be well contented. The driver kindly advised me of the stop, and as I alighted the said Caracara landed on a telegraph pole right next to the bus, no problem getting images of that. The only problem was, getting to the next subject as a fine Picazuro Pigeon landed in the very next tree, making for a hard to believe start to the day. The photograph belies the real size of these monsters, which in flight show extremely broad winged, and tend to glide a lot.This gives the impression of a 'bird of prey', I was caught out on more than one occasion. Across the road is a rocky escarpment, surrounded by bushes and holding a good deal of rain water, this had to be investigated. First wildlife of note was a tailless Marmot which almost posed for the camera, after which I found an excellent example of a Rufous Hornero nest, and there was also a Black-tailed Hare but all too fast for me. In the wild grass around the rock were good numbers of Double-collared Seedfinch, the odd Grassland Yellowfinch, all of which were nice to see again, but also a pair of Grassland Sparrows that were new to me!

By mid-day the heat become oppressive for me and feel it's time to seek shelter. A couple on a walk put me right about the bus stop for the journey back found 3 pairs of Green-barred Woodpecker, and by their raucous behaviour a whole squadron of Bay-winged Cowbirds. These often associate with Screaming Cowbird and act as nest hosts, but there were none today, however the last one I saw in 2003 was being swallowed alive by a Monitor Lizard. Waiting for the bus, I encountered a pair of Finch like birds building a nest, but so far have been unable to identify them.

An omission from yesterdays report was of a pair of Barn Owls as darkness fell and we left the town of Azul to join the road to Mar del Plata. Although already on the Trip List, these are the first to be seen as the other, as far back as Venezuela, was only heard.

Chimango Caracara

Grassland Yellowfinch, front

and back.

Green-barred Woodpecker front,

and back.

Double-collared Seedfinch (adult male)

Double-collared Seedfinch (juvenile)

Picazuro Pigeon

Don't know what all this is about, but something religious I guess. It is believed to be a cave full of 'Dusters', please note Mrs Edwards! PS have to admit thought it was ladies underware from a distance.

We're having to do requests now!

One for ShIela, unidentified butterfly.

and one for Nick, unidentified Marmot?

An example of the stylish housing in the area.

Bay-winged Cowbird

Guira Cuckoo, thought we might have to wait until Buenos Aires for this one!

Rufous Hornero

Rufous Hornero's Nest

Rufous-bellied Thrush

Thought to be Glittering-bellied Emerald

NO! - I Don't Like to be Beside THIS Seaside.

If there's one thing you gain from these 'long haul' coach journeys, it's the sense of just how vast these counties are. Even what I described as the town of San Rafael took a full 20 minutes to clear, before once again finding ourselves in the vast fruit growing region of Mendoza. In the main grapes for wine, it was interesting to note the different techniques of growing just these plants. What may be described as the traditional French, Italian etc way of training the vines up 45 degree supports, attracting the optimum amount of sunlight, but here there were other options I had not seen before. Many were grown vertically up the supports, while others formed a canopy above the forest of props, beneath which a child could easily walk. Mile after mile of this fertile pasture eventually gave way to 'bush country' which along its full length was fenced in by 5 strand barbed wire. How many miles this followed heaven knows, but it continued into rough grassland and then cattle country. How many head of stock we passed would only be an estimate, but it had to be 'hundreds of thousands? Later, and as the sun set behind us there were other crops, again in enormous proportions, with one single sunflower field stretching over more than 5Km, according to the roadside markers. There were many birds also, mostly small 'passerines', with various Pigeons featuring strongly as did good numbers of Chimango Caracara, and we had now reached Southern Crested Caracara country. Like Carolina and Northern Chickadee in the US, who knows where the line is drawn and for that matter, who can tell the difference? Apart from these, the only others that were identifiable were Long-tailed Flycatcher, Southern Lapwing and at 2 most fortuitous stops a re-encounter with Ash-coloured Cuckoo and Pampas Meadow (a 'lifer') both showing well.

I was still in doubt about our ETA, as chiefy at the bus station had simply written 8hr on my slip of paper, which I read to mean the number of hours the journey would take. It was rapidly approaching 22-00 as we stopped at a retaurant for passengers to eat, but despite yet another inquiry I was still no wiser as we took off again. At mid-night, and another stop, the driver finally indicated that I should sleep and raised 8 fingers to indicate we would arrive at 08-00. It was nearer 09-00, but who's counting as we arrived at yet another huge town and with a good deal of language difficulty finally found myself a seedy hotel. I decided on 2 night, asked about the birds and the Internet, to be told both were absent. Undeterred, I set off down the sea front, much like Bournemouth only lots bigger, and was already feeling decidedly uncomfortable about the place. Beginning to think the ladies at the hotel were right, I did see an immature, large Gull with a 'banded' tail so began to think my luck was in. Long-tailed Flycatcher and Southern Lapwing were both seen again and in the distance there were a good number of Gulls but all inside the Naval Base. With no chance of access, I had already walked about 6 miles so wasn't going to give up now. The closer, the more I considered they could be Olrog's, and finding a way to a part of the Dockyard under repair I just kept walking and wasn't challenged. I had loosed off about half a dozen shots before it dawned on me that these were in fact Kelp Gulls, in addition to which there were Franklin's, Grey and Grey-hooded but no sign at all of the much sort after Olrog's Gull. It was most definitely a bus back as it was now around the late 80'sC and that's when I made the decision to move on tomorrow. Concrete and glass do it for some people but not me, and while as far as holiday resorts go this is all very nice, I'm out of here.

As a footnote:- I found the Naval Base very interesting, especially the Submarines and the small Corvette with 'all hands mustered for Divisions', in best whites (No 6's as they were known in the RN). I have something of a complex about the Argentinian's, and especially the Navy after the debacled of Los Malvinas which, as I have rambled on enough for one day, will enter into at a later date!

LONG-TAILED FLYCATCHER
SOUTHERN CRESTED CARACARA
ASH-COLOURED CUCKOO
PICAZURO PIGEON
PAMPAS MEADOWLARK*
GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD
RED-LEGGED SERIEMA* c2 stood in a field, with bus at almost stop. We had encountered these, in captivity, in the largest aviary I have ever seen. This was at Iguassu Falls in 2003, when there had been yet another border dispute and one side wasn't going to open the road until the other did. We eventually access the Falls, but if it had not been for the above dispute, would have missed this sight. Although close to the Waders, this large, red-legged, crested monster looks far more like a Secretarybird to me than anything else. No photos I'm afraid.

The Tale to Date

Trip Species - 861
World Lifers - 562
Endemics - 57

Long-tailed Flycatcher

Chilean Mockingbird

Southern Lapwing

Ringed 'First Winter' Kelp Gull (unless you can make it something beginning with 'O'?

I could only make any of them Kelp Gulls

As far as we under-water mob are concerned, there are only 2 types of Ship!

'Submarines' and 'Targets'!

A small Corvette holding 'Divisions' of some kind.

What I think is an Antarctic Survey Vessel ahead of 2 small Frigates.

Floating Dock - don't you just love 'em? Last one I saw was in Simonstown, South Africa, last one I was in was aboard HM S/M Porpoise, Portsmouth Dockyard 170.