No Tango in the Night & Little of Costanera Sur

It may sound strange to report 9 new species added to the Trip List, 2 of them being World Lifers and then in the next breath say the day was something of an anti-climax! Well, more of that later, but for now back to last night.

and first of all I have to admit the 'dry period' is well and truly over. With a beer each before we left the hotel, 2 bottles of excellent Argentine Malbec between us, a large Black Russian (that's still a drink) and a small 'farewell' tot of banana liqueur my alcohol free trip has ended with a bang.

The restaurant was recommended by the hotel staff, and it turned out to be one that I have frequented a couple of times before. The usual warm Argentinian welcome at the door, a look at what was being prepared and a quick peep at the wine rack started what was to be a splendid meal. In traditional style, we started with a tab-nab of a small Cornish pasty for the want of a better description, then went on to enjoy a shared platter of this countries answer to Palma ham, which we all agreed was better. Liz chose the smallest of the fillet beef steaks, which turned out the size of a building brick (well almost) while Jim and I shared a combo of 6 meats beef, lamb, pork, chicken, spicy sausage and home made black pudding. If that isn't enough to start you salivating, then a shared ice cream comprising of toffee, cinnamon, kirsch liqueur, grated chocolate and the size of 2 building bricks (seriously) should! All served in the most professional but nonchalant manner, all we needed after was a good Tango bar.

Unfortunately, that's when disaster struck. Always careful which taxi to choose, you can never predict the drivers grasp of 'The Knowledge'. This young lad didn't even know which day it was as we asked if he knew of where we could dance. He assured us he had it all weighed off, but after 15 minutes of driving I gestured to the meter, drew an imaginary line across the from of it and said "Nada". On the strength of him not having a clue and after reseting the meter we told him to take us back to the hotel. Somewhere near, we were sure, he just kept driving up and down one street after another getting us nowhere. At the next red light we bailed out, and of course left without paying. Soon in another cab it was still a fair old trek home but we had been extremely please with the meal.

Preparing the feast.

Always make friends with the Chef, you don't want him spitting in the soup.

Baa Lambs roasting by an open fire!

A table fo 2 Sir? They couldn't see me behind Jim.

El Skinny Kid tucks into the 6 types of meat.

Beef or Malbec first?

The sommelier brings the gratis good night drinks.

The prominent feature in Buenos Aries for the past fortnight has been the torrential rail. Apparently downpours to equal the Tempest with many areas under serious flooding, infrastructure breakdowns and before leaving La Plata there was a good chance I wasn't going to make it that day. I doubt that had much to do with the lack of birds at the Costanera Sur today, but in the past I have visited this reserve 8 separate times and have always recorded close to, or more than 3 figure totals. As I walked along what might be described as the 'sea wall' it quickly became apparent that it was going to be a slow day as on the first scan I saw only 3 birds. Obviously I was going to give it a bit of time, but by the time I walk the mile to the main gate I hadn't seen a Heron, Egret or Ibis of any description - unheard of! The path that leads from the gate to the circular walk has always been alive with birds, albeit common species such as Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous Hornero and 3 species of Dove, but today there were barely a handful, while waterfowl, with the exception of Fulvous and White-faced Tree (Whistling) Duck, seemed nonexistent. However, persistence paid off as Chestnut-capped & Yellow-winged Blackbirds both entered the log, while shortly after a none too obliging Dark-throated Seedeater joined the World List. Just c3 Coscoroba and a single Black-necked Swan were photographed distantly, and as for Coots, which have been extremely numerous previously, amounted to c5White-winged, c3Red-fronted and a single Red-gartered miles away. All of this time the wind had been blowing a full gale, making small passerines very difficult, while the ever present threat of rain occasionally manifested itself with a light shower, but interest was maintained as a full adult Brown-hooded Gull flew overhead.

As if the small disaster of last evening were not enough, there was more to come. Having walked the 1.7 miles of the north path, I had opted not to cut across the reserve but complete the full perimeter first, the do the cross paths. At what is a secondary entrance a park official approached me indicating what I though to be the path ahead was closed, maybe flood water, maintenance or some such thing? Turning to retrace my steps, he stopped me again and pointed me to the gate, the park, for whatever reason was being closed. It is likely this was due to the impending weather that had looked none too promising all morning, but enquiring when it would be reopened found it's close tomorrow as well. This in itself was only a minor snag, as on my first visit here I had experienced a similar circumstance. So anxious to get birding, I had arrived at the same time as the official unlocking the gate at 06-00. That was timely I though but was soon told the reserve doesn't open until 08-00. Thinking it was twiddling thumbs time, I found the margins next to the main road full of birds, and was still busily recording new stuff when opening time arrived. I got lucky this time as well adding (Trans-Atlantic) Starling (yeah alright), Fulvous Whistling-Duck, Rosy-billed Pochard and Ringed Teal to the Trip List, while the latter was also a World Lifer.

A word on the Reserve, akin to Radipole Nature Reserve the Costanera Sur is bordered on 3 sides by urbanisation and on its south east edge by the River Plate. The perimeter walk is 4.7 miles, plus there are a series of cross paths. In the main a watercourse with what appear to be common reed and greater reed mace, plus marram grasses, many trees and bushes plus the occasional observation platform. It is also designated a special site for the preservation of birds.

A notice board

Costanera Sur from the main road, looking East.

and looking West

Black-necked Swan

Coscoroba

This was tough to identify, but an addition to the Trip List nonetheless the humble Starling.

as promised, a better picture of Red-crested Cardinal

Chestnut-capped Blackbird

Red-fronted Coot

White-winged Coot

Poor but spur of the moment shot of a male Rosy-billed Pochard

A male Ringed Teal

A pair of Ringed Teal

Picazuro Pigeon

One of the Cowbirds, a juvenile I sispect but as yet unidentified.

My latest pad.

A little luxury never hurt anyone.

and finally, going back to the 2 mystery birds at Punta Lara on Thursday 18th February, my mate Daragh Croxson has come up with the goods on one of them. A female/juvenile Masked Yellowthroat. In my guide there is just a thumbnail of a females head, the main picture showning an adult male, no excusses I totally overlooked it! This is an addition to the Trip List.

Two of the three pictures of 3 days ago repeated here.

Masked Yellowthroat, and I'll opt for the adult female on this one?

Lists Update

MASKED YELLOWTHROAT

CHESTNUT-CAPPED BLACKBIRD

YELLOW-WINGED BLACKBIRD

DARK-THROATED SEEDEATER*

STARLING

ROSY-BILLED POCHARD

RINGED TEAL*

RED-GARTERED COOT

RED-FRONTED COOT

WHITE-WINGED COOT

Trip Total - 900
World Lifers - 573
Endemics - 57

Tango in the Night

It's rare I visit a place more than once, but today Buenos Aries has the pleasure of my company for the 'fourth' time. My opinion of one of the finest cities in the world is formed by the fantastic culture, a chequered but interesting history, the splendid architecture and lashings of excellent beef & wine. Another chilled start as I knew the buses were regular and often, and by 08-00 I was underway (again) but to my final destination. Along the way, despite only 50Km, there was lots to see in the lush fields, plentiful woodlands and flooded, redundant gravel pits. There were many dozens of Crested Caracara, Southern Lapwing and Snowy Egret and even a Black-necked Swan which is an addition to the Trip List.

Arriving at Centro 09-30 gave me plenty of daylight to explore even more of the city, and as I had, in the past, paid scant attention to the Airport, given the time available considered I could do both 'departures' and 'arrivals'. At this early hour the hordes of tourist coaches had not yet arrived, but just as got to one of the most interesting parts, the 'self check-in machines', I heard a familiar voice behind me. I turned to find Jim the (Flippin') Medic and Liz, his long suffering Lady Friend, him shouting "Bagsy, I've missed you on the rig, and couldn't get down to Weymouth, so decided to track you down in South America". Now, that's all I need at this stage of the game, and just know he'll insist on paying for everything, demand the finest food & wines and taxi everywhere. You can just do without friends like that. It looks like my last 4 days are going to be marred by me having to try and dodge them, as I know they'll want me to go to the Costanera Sur all the time! Anyway, he said he had taken the libity of booking me a suit at the Hotel Raco de Buenos Aries, so under sufferance I've had to accept, and if you believe any of that old Blarney, then more fool you!

In reality, one of the finest human beings I have had the pleasure to meet, I'm sure the 3 of us WILL have a whale of a time as we have so often. One of my fondest memories of Jim was in a dirty run down town in the Himalaya foothills where, we had just enjoyed a very good Indian meal (considering the locale) and at at 01-00 were taking a Tuk Tuk back to the hovel. Jim noticed a small light blinking down a narrow dark street, and the driver told us it was the local Shebeen, the chance of a nightcap being just too much for him. In his usual brave manner he luffed me in to go and suss it, and returned to report that it was probably the most inhospitable, dark, dingy, dump I had ever seen. "Ideal", suggested my compardre, "but they're eating hand grenades and picking their teeth with bayonets" said I. So, obviously in we went. Already more than a couple of pints brave, Jim deftly produced a coin from behind the ear of the barman, much to his amazement, and that really was 'game on'. A couple more magic tricks, that he just happened to bring along, and a couple of Beatle's songs from yours truly and it was as if we were locals.

There, what did I tell you, straight to the cash dispenser! Jim has drawn a 'full' £2.50 and announced we're going ashore tonight and not going 'back onboard' until we've spent the lot. I don't know if I'm ready for this.

Great to shake this man's hand again, hope I feel the same in the morning. Liz is a Tango addict so it's obvious where we'll be heading, after a juicy lump of beef and maybe I'll weaken and have my first alcohol of the trip? Jim isn't fully looking forward to the dancing, but Liz put up with a week of building Elephant walls in Namibia last year to please him, so now it's his turn to suffer.

PS

As I was writing this in the hotel lobby, an English couple arrived and we had a short chat. It turned out that Peter Mannering was a Sub Lieutenant in the Submarine Service during the same period as myself. While we have no recollection of each other, there were many names that were well known to us both. One of those was the distinguished submarine Commander, Captain Sam Salt, who, I was surprised to learn, only passed away last week. Despite his prowess in 'boats' (as we referred to them) his career ended on a sad note when he lost HMS Sheffield in San Carlos Water, during the Falkland's conflict. RiP Sir!

Send in the Clowns? - It's OK They're Here!

Today was the day of the Clowns, and what a bunch of fun, but first of all I had to get to the Theatre. Now, to say the road system in La Plata is complicated would be a massive understatement! 49% of the roads run North / South, 49% lead East / West and there are a couple of diagonals right through the center of the city. Each road is numbered consecutively and no two roads have the same number, see what I mean? So, with all this to contend with, where did I end up - yes LOST! It certainly helps if you have a street map, which I have and having been a professional navigator for the best part of my working life is also an asset - so how do I do it Stanley?

Eventually I found it and now I know how Tom Cruise feels at a 'premier'. I formed a queue of one, collected my ticket, which the Clowns has pre-booked for me, clearly marked 'Invitacion Especial' and sat there waiting for the Bolly corks to start popping, but it wasn't that sort of gig. Anyroad, at 10-00 on the dot the doors were opened, and to be fair the place was packed. There were even ome people I recognised from the same hotel, so I joined them for a bit of banter only to find their tickets were marked similarly and had paid the same price - NADA!

Without being patronising the show was excellent and even though there was a fair bit of dialogue, things were so funny you didn't have to be Spanish.The company performing 'Trio Tiri Tiri' employed simple tactics with little in the way of costume, props etc and no make-up at all except a prosthetic nose each Working with taped music and sounds, their timing was immaculate, and each had the natural abilities of any Clown. They are part of a wider group from all parts of the country competing for what we might call 'The Troupe of the Year' award, and I believe the others will have to be exceptional to come anywhere near these 4 very talented lads.

At the end of the show, every one, Clowns, Audience and other Troupes, gathered in the foyer and the atmosphere was amassing, there were a few photos before we spilled onto the pavement and went our seperate ways. How many there are in total involved in the competition I don't know, but I must have met at least 20 and can say there is one thing they allhave in common, even in 'mufty' they look like Clowns.

THANK YOU GIRLS & BOYS FOR THE INVITATION AND A REMARKABLE MORNING VIVA ARGENTINA!

I knew where it was all the time!

As soon as I saw the word 'infantil' I knew it was the right place.

Trio Tiri Tiri make their entrance

and immediately take a rest.

Javier makes a break for a solo career.

I can tell you Zeppelin are getting nervous.

Taking a 'Standing Ovation'.

The 'birds' impresion was done in my honour - thanks lads.

Some of the Clowns in the audience today. Is that James Stockley left and Sooty in the middle?

Now, that's all the Clowns.

and strange to relate, the last time I had anyone touch my 'golden locks' was during my last trip to Argentina, which also included an Antarctic Voyage. I had announced before departure that I was embarking on this trip to see a Penguin not to look like one, so there was no chance of me wearing a formal suit. With respect for those who did, on Christmas Eve I took to my full length Indian kaftan and had my barnet done. Today, the time seemed right with the company of the right people so I got it done again, I just hope it lasts.

Couldn't get any photies of the childhood Shirley Temple,

so hope these will suffice?

As I finish this post, the Clowns are all leaving the hotel to attend the announcement of the winners and the prize giving. The winners stand to win £2,000 and automatically go forward to the 'Nationals'. I am, of course, rooting for TTT. but lets hope they have more luck than everyone is having with the weather here right now, torrential rain, with serious flooding in some parts of the country.

Dirty Old River Must You Keep Rolling, Rolling on Through the Night

I had no idea what to expect at Punta Lara, except the guy at the hotel had put me right for the bus, told me the price and that it was on the river. The buses here, I soon found out, run on a 'fixed rate' coin system where you board, tender the exact fare, which you put in the ticket machine, and the ticket is issued. I was fairly quick to pick that up, but with the coins available I was 10 cents shy of the right amount. With that, no fewer than 3 fellow travelers jumped to my aid, offering to make up the difference. In the end a young fellow not only produced the outstanding, but also enough to get a return ticket. I'm a great believer in this kind of action, as it spreads good will with those you help going on to help others and so on and so forth! The 45 minute journey was uneventful except on the outskirts of La Plata City there were about a dozen horses either being led or rode through the streets. Now, I'm no equestrian but these fine animals looked to be thoroughbreds, each with a numbered saddle, a real treat to see.

Here I can introduce you to el Rio de la Plata or The River Plate, not really a 'dirty old river', old certainly but the dirt is the constant sea washed sand from the shallows of which most of the river consists, and in most respects it is considered clean. Probably most famous for the WWII scuttling of the German Pocket Battleship Admiral Graf Spee, I can reveal another secret this vast seaway holds. There is somewhere out there a huge furrow that make the Marianas Trench look about as deep as a swimming pool. My old ship/rig mate Captain Derek Watson-Palmer MN (fondly known as Del-Boy), aboard his first Charge, was shipping beef from Montevideo to Europe when an unforeseen incident forced the ship to anchor in la Plata. The prospect of some extra shore leave brought joy to the entire crew as they ran a regular liberty boat to the nearest port. Del-Boy recalls, each time the boat returned to the ship it seemed strange that being at a single anchor she was heading in the same direction. No matter, the regular position plotting showed everything was in order, and after a full 14 days of revelry things were put to rights and the sailing order was sent. When main engines were started and Del-Boy tried to put on some headway to take the tension from the anchor cable, nothing happened. It turned out that they had been 'aground' for the full fortnight, and it is said the mark on the seabed still exists??

Here's a REAL Captain for you Del-Boy, not aground but you could say 'on a Plate' - get it?

What I hadn't expected to find out there, was a Nature Reserve, but only a few hundred meters from the bus stop there it was. As I approached the lady in charge was clearing little from the drive, and appeared a little skeptical about my reasons for being there. Showing her the camera and Field Guide she mellowed a little, removing 4 padlocks from the gates and allowed me in. Now without sounding ungrateful, this woman could talk, and despite my "no comprehendo" she kept on and on, but as I said before I was in.

Senora Consuela - In Charge of the Nature Reserve

By South American reserve standards, this was little more than a postage stamp, but observing the vegetation looked to have lots of promise. In the main mature trees with many bushes plus scrub and an understory of aquatic plants, who knows what could turn up. On one of the very few signs there was the image of a Grey-necked Wood-Rail and a Terrapin Sp, neither of which were seen but by the 'calls & song' there were birds here. Consuela directed me to the boardwalk, which continued for the whole walk, and then seeming a little reluctant left me to my own devices. Within minutes 2 old favorites both Rufous & Creamy-bellied Thrushes made an appearance and next I spent ages trying to coax a small passerine from cover. Finally it fell to the camera and although very distinctive with bright yellow breast and prominent eye-ring I have been unable to identify it. The photographs of it and another bird are submitted at the end of this epistle.

White-browed Warbler

Next to show was an extremely shy Red-eyed Vireo, which also fell to the camera but with limited success, to be followed by a showy White-browed Warbler a World Lifer for me. The 2 shots above show just how obliging, with the lower one showing traces of the difficult to see blackish double head stripes.

Part of the boardwalk which, by the looks of the debris, become awash on occasion.

Red-eyed Vireo

Dragonfly Sp

There were also plenty of Butter & Dragonflies, but by and large flighty. While trying to photograph one of the former my attention was drawn to movement in a bush where there were a pair of Masked Gnatcatcher feeding young. Another bird to be expected at the Costanera Sur next week, but while the going was good it was added to the Trip List today! In fact this spot turned out to be a bit of a 'purple patch' as the other unidentified bird arrived in company with what at first was thought to be a Cowbird of sorts. With eyes darting backwards and forwards. I had to concentrate on the other 2 as I had seen the Gnatcatcher before, and it was soon apparent the 'all black' bird was far to small for a Cowbird. It stayed in the area for quite a while, allowing a description, but the photos came to naught. It was in fact a Blue-billed Black Tyrant, another welcome addition to the World List

Masked Gnatcatcher (male)

Masked Gnatcatcher (female, lacking the 'mask')

The female again. I just liked the pose so stuck it in.

The Rope Bridge that swung dangerously no matter how slowly you walked.

The nearest I've come so far with this little fella is Brown-capped Redstart

regardless of the fact it isn't showing a Rufous Cap,

it may be a juvenile??

and this, having all the attributes od a Flycatcher,

I want to call it a White-winged Becard - any ideas Daragh (or others)?

Leaving the Reserve, a walk along the broken road for about 3Km brought nothing new, but both Southern Crested and Chimango Caracara, Kelp Gull, Rufous Hornero, the usual Doves/Pigeons, Great Kiskadee and Guira Cuckoo put in appearances. The anglers on the sea-wall were having little luck, but stopping to watch this group fishing a small inlet, they seemed to be pulling small fish in (which they were keeping) hand over fist. I could see little point in the bamboo canes they were using as rods as the baited hook and small feathery float were dropped almost at their feet. Anyway, it was fantastic standing there in the beautiful sunshine, eating my ham and cheese roll without a care in the world.

As I am about to press the button to publish this post, I note on the laptop clock it is 20-30, leaving me exactly 168 hours (one week) before I should be walking through my own front door. That is if I don't get hijacked by Bowie and Sheila on the way - keep your eye out guys!!

Lists Update

CHALK-BROWED MOCKINGBIRD
MASKED GNATCATCHER
WHITE-BROWED WARBLER*
BLUE-BILLED BLACK TYRANT*

Trip Total - 890
World Lifers - 571
Endemics - 57

La Plata, a Fine City

Given it has a Cathedral, and a very fine one at that, it would be fair to say that La Plata is a city rather than a town. One thing is for sure, I'm glad I took the time out to discover some of its charms as this is the most interesting city, or town, visited so far. From the hotel it was just a few paces to the very elegant looking City Hall designed, like many of the buildings close by, in the French style. In fact several times during the walk I had the impression of being on the Left Bank of the Seine.

City Hall

My hotel in the middle

Directly opposite stands one of the most awe inspiring 'modern' Cathedrals I have ever seen. I had to look back to my architectural mentor, former Brother in Law and great inspiration, Doctor David Warlmsley to remember much of what I was viewing. Of the Perpendicular Gothic style, for a Roman Catholic Church it differs from most I have seen, as being light, bright and airy. Take the Brompton Oritory or Westminster Cathedral for instance, austre, dark and dreary, like somewhere that faith tell you naughty boys might end up! The exterior of red brick and natural stone fair shines in the sunlight, with solid flying buttresses and spires that fair reach
the clouds, as they should. The interior is simarlarly placed with no dark recesses and very few gordy monuments, enough to scare little children to death. Almost completely lime or sand stone, which looks like it comes from the Sceptered Isle (Portland) itself, it is not of the harder Whitbed or Cap Stone but what a Portland mason would refer to as Roach Stone. The layer above the harder stone, Roach was once considered an inferior product, but nowadays is used extensively, with many London buildings being faced with it. This is the stone that contains many shells and small fossils, and once polished also makes for most pleasing hotel desk tops, window ledges etc. While not expecting anything like the magnificent Scissor Arches of Wells Cathedral, the vaulting too hold great charm and above the naive, in natural light defused by stained glass is a beautiful octagonal gallery of some of the saints. The only disappointment came at mid-day, when I returned especially, as the noon bells were a wishy-wash, mish-mash of nothingness, and if the hour was struck it was not discernible. While I'm not looking for everything to be Westminster Chimes, there was nothing resembling "turn back Whittington, Lord Mayor of London".

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, east aspect

South Transept showing Flying Buttresses

Grand Entrance and Rose Window

Arches and Vaulting of the Naive

Saint's Octagon above the Naive

Some of the finer stonework.

Heading towards the Central Park, between avenues of mature London Plain trees growing in wide graveled margins, (on which in France boules would be played) I noticed also that the pavements were all 'tiled'. A brilliant effect but whoever s brain child, never gave any consideration to the existing trees. Over the years the rootstock has undermined every one, the walkways now being not only a serious hazard but a real eye-sore. There were also a number of fine monuments two of which particularly caught my eye, the first to Simon Bolivar, revolutionary and probably singularly the most famous person on the sub-continent. In every country his name resounds in street names, districts and in Ecuador even the currency used to bear his name.The second, a column to an Admiral unknown to me, was just a pleasing tribute with an anchor and cable at the foot, a gathering of people decorating the plinth and the man himself, Almirante Don Guillermo Brown, atop in best blue suit.

Simon Bolivar 1783 - 1830

Almirante Don Guillermo Brown

and Band Stands, don't you just love em? Despite this one being a little neglected, at least it is still standing. A thing of the past I fear, once every town and even village had one, now the only example I know locally is the fine Victorian one in the park in Dorchester. I wonder if many, or any of the Weymouth & Portland readers remember those at the Alexandra Gardens, Weymouth and Easton Square Gardens, Portland? Unfortunately long gone, so see you all at 'Swing in the Park' Dorchester later this year and we can all share the fine sight of one in use!

Arriving at the park, I was surprised to see such a vast tract of woodland and thought of the half dozen or so 'lifers' within. Noticing a man paying particular interest to the Monk Parakeet nests, went and made contact with what I hoped might be a birder. He had a passing interest, but like me was being eaten alive by mosquitoes. They were only in the woodland, but in unbearable numbers so just taking a few shots of Chalk-browed Mockingbird we both beat a hasty retreat.

Chalk-browed Mockingbird, should see plenty of these at the Costanera Sur next week.

Seems to be one of the traits of this species, 'umbrellaing' much like some of the Ibis to see their prey in the shade?

A Pavement Butterfly, in no hurry to move.