This Means Nothing to Me, Oh Vienna - Ultravox

Immersed in the Blog, I almost missed the 13-00 train from Zagreb to Ljubljana capital of Slovenia, where the countryside continued pristine throughout. This time almost all of the journey was through a shallow tree lined gorge with a fairly major river running alongside. Small Hamlets were dotted along each bank and with farming seeming the most prominent way of life, things looked idyllic.

The train now standing at platform 1 is the 13-00 to Ljubljana.

Slightly late, the train duly arrived at the small city where I had time to take a quick look around. That was all that was needed, as Ljubljana is tiny to say the least, so with little to see it was easily covered withing the hour. Returning to the railway station, I was lucky to find a train heading for Vienna in just15 minutes time. Not wishing to delay matters any further I hopped aboard and that is where I am now. The only new birds added to the trip list were Pheasant, Magpie, Stock Dove, Mallard, Grey Wagtail and Common Kestrel.

A couple of shots from the train window on the way to Vienna yesterday.

Not ideal but tells the story.

A final shot from yesterday as we reached the Austrian lowlands.

Vienna, Austria

After a 6 hour rail journey, I finally arrived in Vienna, Austria, or to be more accurate on the outskirts. It was an interesting trip once again, through lush montain habitat, including the Kara Wanken Mountains along the Austrian border, while at every station stop it was good to note the 'Wheel Tapper' is still alive and well. Unfortunately, nearly all the way here the rain didn't stop, nor did that change at our destination making hotel finding a little more difficult. The 'cheap' one that was recommended by a fellow traveller turned out to be 120 Euros which I hoped was just this establishment and not an indicator of price generally.

Across the road I sought temporary refuge in a garage coffee bar where I met Tony & Christine from Russia, Andy from Austria and the most helpful of the 4 of them, who's name I don't remember, from Turkmenistan. They seemed alright, and while I'm not given to taking too many risks, I decided things would be OK and accepted the lift they offered to a cheap hotel. It was in fact a Hostel, and not particularly salubrious at that, but as luck would have it there was 'no room at the inn'. However, the people did help by saying there was a Pension within walking distance, which on the face of it looked a bit grotty. Checking, what was an apartment, I was pleasantly surprised especially with the price tag of E35. Bidding farewell and thanking my new found friends, it was always too late to be thinking about Blogs and with no Internet on site I left
yesterday's post until this morning.

Breakfast was a sparse affair with just 2 bread rolls butter and jam plus a cup of coffee, but all I needed at that time of the morning. The local Internet Cafe couldn't facilitate (I need to use my lap-top to down load photos) but the hotel next door did the trick.

Immediately after that I got the Metro into the city and started my sightseeing tour with a 'day ticket' on the usual 'City Tour Bus'. That got off to a smashing start as the coach in front backed up, but despite directions, crashed into our bus! The city of Vienna is probably the most cultural place I have ever been with a choice of just about anything from music to architecture, theater, opera, art,history before you even get on to the good stuff. Pressing time didn't allow for one of the many Mozart (or the Strauss', Beethoven, Wagner et al) concerts advertised or a look at The Spanish Riding School of Vienna with their fabulous Lipizzaner Horses. In addition a look around the National Art Gallery would have been an eye opener, said to be crammed full of early Klimt, Egon Schiele (although sometimes a little too pornographic for me) and even an Andy Warhol exhibition beingstaged at the moment. It was also interesting to note that Jethro Tull, Supertramp and Faith No More are also playing in the city this week, but there was no mention of the world famous Bot's Choir which I once saw at the Albert Hall, London.

In addition to all of this there was also the parks and gardens, which are said to cover over half of the city area, plus restaurants and cafes which the city boasts having more per capita than any other in the world. I did try both the schnitzel and strudel, but unfortunately no room for the array of cakes, pastries and wonderful coffee.

St Stephan's Cathedral, the central point of Vienna.

Some detail of the Cathedral

Reminded me of the immortal line uttered by the wonderful Maureen Lipman in the 5th best movie ever made 'Educating Rita, wouldn't you just die without Mahler?"

The mighty Danube

An impressive church on the banks of the river, but can't remember name.

The Opera House, oh for an evening there!

One of the many City parks, all very spring like.

Statue commemorating the immortal Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

The City Hall from a distance.

Maria Theresa

The National Art Gallery

directly opposite and twinning, The Natural History Museum.

Entrance to the Palace of Heroes.

The Palace

Famous Austrian General but name forgotten.

These horses and coaches are an integral part of city life.

Some architectural detail.

some more,
and more.
Roman Remains,
discovered and unearthed in the early 90's.

Back of the Palace of Heroes.

A typical Viennese street, can you see the litter?

another church with no name.

Preparing City Hall for the Spring Recitals.

Plaque above the house of WA Mozart

Just one of his many homes in Vienna

Time is of the essence so please forgive any mistake. Hope to be able to get 'on line' again tomorrow as the trip continues.

PS
Paul Harris says yesterday's insect may be a Carpenter Bee!

The 'Whistle-Stop' Tour Continues

After a 5 hour train ride to Gatwick and an overnight wait of 6 hours plus a full day yesterday, I was happy to reach any hotel especially The Astoria in Zagreb. A great nights sleep, shower and even better breakfast I set off to discover some of the city. It was a similar day weather-wise to yesterday with most of the sky covered, some sunny spell, little wind and a temperature of about 24C.

This is to be a Capital City hopping trip, hoping to cover 13 countries in the time allowed. The only problem might be Albania which I believe to be little visited as a tourist centre, but the Foreign & Commonwealth Office put no restrictions on it and say that the welcome is 'friendly', so I'll be looking forward to that if I get so far.

The Croatian Flag unfurled in the windless conditions

Hooded Crow breakfasting in the litter free environment of a park. The only other species added to the 'trip list' today were Chaffinch, Great Tit and Collared Dove (total at present 20).

Part of the old Zagreb at the top of the gradient.

This post will be mostly be a pictorial, but it will be interesting to see if the reader can spot any litter or rubbish. This is by no means my first city in the world, but it is by a mile the cleanest, in line with what I saw yesterday. It just highlights what a shower of slobs the English are, with just a moments care we could be like this!

The Catholic Cathedral from afar.

The immaculate Old City

Closer to the Cathedral, pity about the scaffold but you can't have it all.

Detail of the Gothic Arch doorway

Jailed 'Fallen Angels'.

The Cathedral Square

Monument of Angels

Part of the Old City walls.

An Orthodox skyline.

One of an amazing tram system, which I soon found out was free to the over 60's (had to get the grey wig out again).

At that price it was worth a ride out to the suburbs, which were once again 'clean as a whistle'. Every garden looked immaculate, all recycle bins in place and a feeling of pride for their country. The people, as I have found many times in the past, are friendly and most helpful, one lady even going out of her way, several hundred yards, to make sure I got on the right tram back. While this has only been a short stay in Croatia, I can't see that things would change anywhere you travel and would strongly recommend a visit.

Hussar Monument in the Main Square.

This afternoon I took the train to Ljubljana capital of Slovenia (no coaches run on this route). With shortage of Internet access I will need to continue this evening 04/05/10.

A Fairly Average Day At The Office

With the wind in the west and the sky best part covered it didn't remotely feel like a good bird day, but as I set off down a path I have never used before, this striking

Yellowhammer flew into a tree right next to me. Further along on the beach it was the turn of this

Serin to grace my gaze, which immediately flew onto a wire fence

giving me the chance of this second shot. And as if to make up the hat-trick this weird looking

House Sparrow popped out from nowhere, but I am still totally miffed by it!

Oh, by the way perhaps I should have mentioned I'm in Croatia? Now come on how many said "he's spassed up on the Yellowhammer and clicked the enlarge button on the Bunting"? For those who wouldn't know anyway it is in fact a Cirl Bunting, while the strange House Sparrow is a Spanish Sparrow, but what a day it has turned out to be.

I heard the Cirl immediately I left the small, beautifully appointed airport at Split on the Adriatic coast and followed it up without delay. It was one of probably 3, but a bit flighty it was difficult to prove. In the corner of the car park there was a small, c7, gang of Spanish Sparrows which took little time to depart when they heard me clicking away. As for the Serin, 'they' are just 2 of lots at all locations.

It was at this point I decided to investigate the little (broken) road opposite and I was not disappointed, in more ways than one.

This Hooded Crow put in a brief appearance but soon departed, with quiet a few more seen throughout the day in various places.

As for this Herring / Yellow-legged Gull someone will have to fill me in on just which L argentatus occurs on the coast of the Adriatic Sea hereabouts.

Over a mile down the road, and a few birds in the log, I simply fired a cheery good morning to the local cafe own, who reciprocated in the same way, and continued my search. On the way back I decided to see if they had any coffee, which Ivan said they did and summoned his wife Milka to put 'ut kettle on. I hadn't even sat down when he announced I was to eat breakfast with them, making two things clear, 1 it would be fish, caught that very morning and 2 there would be no charge. Luckily he had some English and we all started to get on very well together. The coffee was excellent, for which I paid, as Ivan got down to the serious business of BBQ'ing.

In the meantime, this rather strange insect appeared on his grape vine which we attempted to catch to photograph, but failed. Maybe one of the entomological squad can put me right on this please! By now the list was increasing by the minute, with Ivan giving me the local names for Blackbird, (proper) House Sparrow, Goldfinch, Swallow, Blackcap,Starling, House Martin, Feral Pigeon and even a Common Sandpiper. There was also a suspected 'fly over' Lesser Kestrel, but it was now time to eat.

I never did get to know the proper name of these fish, but they looked rather like a type of Bream.

These little critters were quite boney, but at sweet as a nut!

Dressed with a little 'home produced' olive oil, they have 120 trees just up the road along with a small 'market garden' where they grow a multitude of things.

It wasn't long before first the home made white wine was served, after which there was an insistence that I try the red, brilliant in both cases. While there was no urgency to leave I could see this turning into 'game on', so soon after their daughter arrived with one year old Rocco, we exchanged fond farewells and I beat a retreat.

Thank You Ivan, Milka and Family for a moment to remember.

Back at the main road it wasn't long before the Trogir bus arrived, and seeing a single Black Kite on the way, spending the next couple of hours looking around this quaint town of about 40,000 people.

I have no idea of the age of this beautiful little church, but as well as the architecture there were Pallid Swifts nesting in the little square holes in the stonework.

The Town Hall was similarly attractive and ancient

and the frieze in the colonnade was also interesting.

By 14-00 I decided to make the move north to the capital Zagreb about 350 Km away. A lovely comfortable coach took me through some of the most pristine countryside I have ever seen in the developed world, this is truly a fantastic country. No rubbish (not even small amounts of litter), no rusting farm equipment or other plant, no supermarket trolleys, watercourse clear as a bell with nothing to mar the banks, and very few huge hordings advertising McDonald's or the large hotel chains.

Petrol I noticed was a little cheaper than at home (about £1.05p), the toll highways were in immaculate condition with subsidiary roads about the same, but there were not a lot of birds. However, as we past through towns such as Trogio, Trogovina, Sibenik and Krpani (had to be careful with that one) Grey Heron, Common Buzzard, Jay and a male hen Harrier went into the log. The fantastic beauty of the mainly bush and scrub, much boulder strewn rough grassland and the majestic Dinaric Alps can readily be enjoyed from a coach, while the city of Zagreb will have to wait until tomorrow.

The end of month Statistics for the Blog show a massive increase as compared with March, showing 3,295 separate visits (an average of 109 'hits' per day) from 43 different countries, the latest being Pakistan, Japan and Bulgaria. I doubt it will be long before this fine land joins the list, it being good to know the word is getting around!

PS
Received a most welcome e-mail from Mark Forster today clearing up the mystery behind the ship entering Portland Harbour in yesterdays post. I was correct in thinking it was the former Stena Inspector apparently, but it is now re-named as the RFA Diligence (A132). Many thanks Mark.

Arrogance, Apathy and Anger

At long last, some positive progress on the RSPB front, as late yesterday I was able to speak with Dee Stephens who is the Dorset Coast Team Leader for Natural England. Dee herself was once Manager of a major wetland in Great Britain and seemed, without taking one side or the other, to have a real concern about my misgivings. Talking for nearly a hour she went on to tell me that it was her society that had provided the monies for the construction of the Sand Martin Wall at Radipole Lake, but logistics, construction and 'time of build' had been left to the RSPB (or as Nick Tomlinson has told me, him).

Dee allowed me time to state my case in full, during which time I made ALL the points that I have previously highlighted through this Blog, especially the destruction of rare plants on the reserves, the dog control issue, the great fire and, of course, the extremely poor management decision to undertake any building project in the heart of a Site of Special Scientific Interest during the month of April. She agreed the timing ill considered and said she thought this was being undertaken in March, but gave me an assurance a thorough investigation would be carried out.

She continued that Nick Tomlinson was only known to her by reputation, but this was soon to change when they would have to meet professionally to discuss the promotion our nature reserves during the upcoming Olympic Games. By contrast, I informed her that while he has been a close family friend for a number of years, this would not be reason to dissuade me from pursuing this matter to a satisfactory conclusion. The meeting at my home with Tomlinson was also raised and how I curtailed this at short notice as blind arrogance and bigotry was all he had brought to the table, which further heightened my anger but spurring me further to continue my plight.

She also asked me about feelings among the local community, and with a heavy heart I could only report 2 people (that I know of) having made representation to Tomlinson personally, a further 3 who have written to the RSPB and a massive majority, especially among the 'birding' community (many of whom privately congratulate me on my efforts), stand in silent apathy!

Dee concluded that all of this would take time, asking me what would be a favorable outcome? With The Wall now built, I pointed her to the questions I posed in yesterdays Blog post. Nick Tomlinson is rarely out of the local press, which under any other set of circumstances would be a great promotional accolade for the RSPB. As an ex-manager myself (ships Captain for over 30 years) it is easy to see that he has huge difficulty in identifying his foibles and addressing them, who was it who said "it is human to err"? To reiterate, some of the questions that need answering 'publicly' are:-

1 Why was the Wall built at the height of the breeding season in the heart of an SSSI?
2 Why was a fire started, in the heart of an SSSI, on a day when weather conditions were clearly not suitable?
3 Why was a thriving colony of Southern Marsh Orchids destroyed during dike renovation?
4 Why was the Branched Bur-reed pulled from its moorings in the north east corner of Radipole Reserve?
5 Why don't RSPB employees set the example for dog control on our reserves?

Finally, it begs the question why Nick Tomlinson has not answered these questions before (concluding this sorry state of affairs) or made some kind of representation if I am making liable or slanderous representation.

So, back to the good stuff

It was a quiet day all round today, with my usual walk from home, through the cemetery, around Radipole Nature Reserve, along the Weymouth sea front and on to Lodmoor bearing little in the way of fruit (birds). However, there was more than enough of interest happening in the Bay as the Royal Fleet Auxiliary seemed to have most of its fleet sailing up and down. Apart from the decommissioned 'Sir' landing-craft, now permanently secured in Portland Harbour for Special Boat Service Training, there were also 2 large, grey vessels secured alongside.

Out at sea there was one of the new generation of RFA tankers used for 'refueling at sea' (RAS) in the main Royal Navy ships. The design of this one runs on the lines of the old 'Rover' class tankers but about twice the size.

There was also:-

RFA Fort Victoria (A387)

is a combined fleet stores ship and tanker of the Royal Fleet Auxiliary (RFA). She was ordered from Harland and Wolff in 1986, and was launched in 1990, but just a few weeks after being christened, on 6 September, she became the target of two IRA bombs. One of them was successfully defused, while the other device exploded, causing extensive damage to the engine room. Flooding was only brought under control after hours of work by emergency teams, with this incident, and other problems with the construction of the vessel, causing a delivery delay until 1993, three years after originally planned.

Condor Ferry leaving Weymouth Harbour (it may look as though she is entering harbour but in fact is going astern). These huge cathedral hulled vessels ply the Weymouth routes to Guernsey, Jersey (in the Channel Islands) and St Malo in France.

With no view of her name plate or pennant number I a at a loss to know which ship she is. Seen here entering Portland Harbour, this morning, via the East Ship Channel she is a part of the RFA Fleet. At the beginning of the Falkland's conflict, 2 Diving Support Vessels were bought from Stena Shipping and I believe her to be one of those, maybe the Stena Inspector as was.

Later in the day I visited Ferry Bridge to watch the high tide fall away, hoping for a Wading Bird or two, but I was unlucky. In the Fleet Visitor's Center I came across this rather interesting object, which the caption suggests might be a 'Bouncing Bomb'. It is well known that scientist Barnes Wallace, of The Dam Busters fame, trialed the revolutionary bombs on the Fleet and to my knowledge 2 of these were recovered at the end of the 70's and sent to rest in the Royal Air Force Museum at Hendon. I don't believe this object is a bomb at all, but a well decayed Dan Buoy. The metal body shown would have been a watertight cylinder through which a long spar would pass topped with a flag or radar reflector, and by means of rope, chain and a sinker (or anchor) become a temporary marker buoy. These were used extensively in the Minesweeper service, so it is no surprise that one washed up in the Fleet.

The Lunatics are Definitely Running the Asylum

Fortunately, just before pressing the button to publish today's post a friend, one of only a couple with the bottle to show concern and write to the RSPB NATIONALLY hoping for a little sense from 'higher authority, sent me their reply. It is copied here in full, except for name.

Dear Mr,

Our visitor centre has passed me your e:mail expressing your concerns over the construction of the sand martin wall at Radipole Lake, concerns which I hope I have addressed below, but let me first of all say that we take our duties as guardians of the reserve and its wildlife very seriously and would have not undertaken these works if we felt they were going to disturb breeding birds.

The sand martin wall was part of a programme of works to enhance the site, for both wildlife and people, the planning for which has been ongoing for the last three years, involving a wide range of people and organisations to ensure our wildlife and our visitors get the maximum benefits and, key to that, has been ensuring that we do not disturb breeding birds.

Accordingly, we undertook surveys prior to the work starting and continued to monitor the area throughout the construction phase and if we had felt, at any time, that disturbance was taking place then we would have stopped work immediately.

With regards to the timing of the works, they could not have taken place during the early winter, as we were undertaking extensive habitat management works in the northern parts of the reserve and, constructing the sand martin wall (in the southern parts of the reserve) at the same time would have meant there was very little refuge area left for birds to move to. We therefore took the decision to build in the late winter period to both provide this refuge area during the habitat restoration works but also to offer the best chance of encouraging sand martins to take up occupancy this year.

You are, of course, correct, it is indeed illegal to disturb breeding birds, which is why we took so many precautions to ensure that we did not do so, before or during construction.

Thank you for your concern and I do hope the above puts your mind at rest that, far from causing disturbance, we did, in fact, take extreme care to ensure that these works did not impact on our breeding birds.

Kind Regards

Nick Tomlinson

Weymouth RSPB Reserves Site Manager

My reaction :- The Gloves are Now Off!

They're At It Again!

With the sky 2/3rds covered by cloud, and a threatening looking 'front' approaching from the west the chances of rain seemed high as I wandered through the cemetery. Due to declining numbers on a global scale, it is unlikely we'll ever see the counts of birds we enjoyed up to the early 80's. However, arriving at Radipole about 07-00 there was a glimmer of hope as good numbers of Hirundines, mostly Sand Martin, and a few Swifts had already congregated above the southerly reed-bed. By the number still, or returning to, perch on the reed stems it seemed likely a roost had occurred there overnight? Let's hope for a return to those days when at dusk the reeds filled with these and other birds, such as Starling and Yellow Wagtail, and the opportunist Hobby would happen along for its supper. The only other point of interest was a 'mute' Grasshopper Warbler which, despite a bit of a wait, never blessed me with its reeling song.

Sand Martin cling to the reeds

After a complete 'blank' along the seafront, Lodmoor turned out to be nearly the same, with what action there was being confined to this singing

Sedge Warbler now in its eighth day of trying to attract a mate from the same perch.

This pair of Collared Doves seemed contented snuggling up to one another, but well behind the resident pair close to my home, that are already sitting on eggs. The best sight on the moor today was a pair of Bullfinch, seemingly feeding young, while continuously emitting their mournful call.

Convinced that it was Saturday, there was no need to mark time awaiting 09-30 when the 'bus pass' kicks in, but on boarding the bus was told "it's too early to use that". The walk back to town didn't kill me and as it was still only 9 'o' clock there was still a while before the tide would turn at Ferry Bridge. I arrived to see the 'pot fishermen' laying their traps, in the hope of a few Velvet Swimming Crabs, but what they do with them I don't know. Each makes a lovely sandwich filling I seem to remember, but whether they go to a commercial market is beyond me.

Velvet Swimming Crab

Whatever is going on?

Readers must be reaching the point of boredom and disbelief that I am not anti RSPB, but here is another 'fine' example of Royal Society for the 'Protection' of Birds MANAGEMENT in action!

This photograph shows, more or less, the full extent of what used to be the Little Tern Colony across the water from Ferry Bridge. If you 'left click' and enlarge the photograph, you might see slightly left of center and below the ridge of the beach, RSPB Tern Warden John Dadds. With little else to do while waiting for the tide to fall I watched him shoveling shingle within the Tern Colony while totting up what I would claim to be the highest Little Tern count this year, c23.

At this moment he is wandering through the Colony seemingly kicking shingle about, while, and you'll have to take my word for this, the Terns were flying over his head. He then took up station sat by the perimeter fence and simply watched. Every year that I have watched this Colony, and that's quite a few, guardians have seemed happy to utilise the old shooting butts not far away, not only affording some protection from the elements but also within viewing range without disturbing the birds. Maybe I need to buff up on modern Nature Management techniques or, much less likely, wait for other so called 'wildlife lovers' to pick up their pens in support - I'm not holding my breath!

Danny Fox long time Landlord of the Pulpit Inn (formally the Devenish), long suffering waitress and luminary Clair Harper, Myself and Portland Bird Observatory Chairman Edwin Welland

Edwin and I had lunch together today - nice work if you can get it!