One of These Days - Pink Floyd

Saturday 8th May 2010

A day like this comes along occasionally, and in my little world I grab it by the lower band! Wanting to get to Montenegro, with some haste to utilise time, it was fortuatous that the first bus was at 09-00. At Euros 15 for a clean comfortable room you don't get much in the way of breakfast, so it was the 'old reliable' 2 packets of crisps, a bar of chocolate and a bottle of water and we were off.

Through some of the most spectacular scenery, the whole journey from Sarajavo, Bosnia to Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro was by and large through the Balkans. There were 40 people for the 25 seater bus, so I lent on my experiences in India, Ceylon and elsewhere to trample the women and kids underfoot to get a window seat. That achieved, all I had to do was to sit back and enjoy 8 hours of pure beauty. Snow covered peaks fell to meet woodland in full leaf and meadows covered in spring blooms, Cowslips, Celandine, Harebell and Daisies just to name a few. Throughout, we followed the courses of a number of rivers which were dwarfed by giant rock escarpments, ideal I thought for Wallcreeper, but unfortunately none were seen.

10 Km from the border we stopped for a coffee break where at least c3 Nightingales were singing away, while at 'passport control', we waited in the sunshine as Wren and Garden Warbler were added to the 'trip list'. With a hitch, passports were stamped and we were once again on our way passing more crumbling farmsteads and small villages as well as a Booted Eagle.

Don't you know we're riding on the Bosnia Express?

The village of Stanica Foca

Kanjon National Park

Well into the Balkans

At the Montenegro Border

More views through the Balkans on the Montenegro side.








Entering Podgorica, Montenegro

There was some good news and some bad news for me at the Podgorica Bus Station, the good was an overnight bus to further my journey, but the bad news was the wrong destination. No public transport whatsoever ply's the route from Montenegro to Albania, so it looked like an Albanian stamp was going to evade my passport, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. The set price in a taxi to the border is 25 Euros (none negotiable) so e35 'return' seemed like a bargaining chip. With a little help from an English speaking Montenegrin lady I secured this deal with the driver, and we were off to the Albanian border.

Mico Perovic made Jenson Button look positively sluggish as we raced towards the border, but managing to secure Corn Bunting and Black-eared Wheatear on the way. The plan was to literally 'twitch' Albania, get the 'stamp' and return to base, which is exactly what we did. On the way I was a little concerned that the Albanians, not the most confiding nation in the world, would not accommodate me but I need not have worried. At the border post I almost strolled through the Montenegrin exit, while at the Albanian side the official seemed a little too inquisitive? Not satisfied simply with the detail in my passport he wanted to know precisely 'where' I lived in England (unusual). Once I mentioned Dorset, his eyes lit up and went on to tell me that his brother is the manager of a pub in Bournemouth. I could probably have had all the stamps I wanted after a 5 minute encounter. I decided to walk about a mile into Albania, more or less to validate having been there, before returning to the same police officer who led me to his colleague on the other side to complete exit formalities. On the way back to Podgorica, Mico was determined to take me to his local bar, and with time to spare, why not? Half a dozen 'brilliant' locals met us at the door, and already I felt like a 'local' myself, with mine host producing the coffee in double quick time. Some conversation in broken English plus a couple of local songs and my own vocal contribution it was time to get back. Once there, Mico talked the Bus Station Tavern owner to let me use his power connector, and here I am sat in the sun writing up today's Blog with the bus leaving for Skopje, Macedonia in just one hour - I'll be back tomorrow.

with the local darts team, or was it billiards?

Sunday 9th May 2010

After a much more comfortable than expected night on the bus, we arrived at Skopje, Macedonia, via Kosovo, at 07-00. All border crossings went without a hitch and within minutes I found this little coffee bar with free Internet access, enjoying an early morning drink with a Spanish guy I met on the bus. The plan is to have a look around the city before heading off again, probably to Sofia, Bulgaria. If Billy (Rhubarb & Custard) Crumble is reading this I bet a few memories of our visit some years ago will come flooding back. We had just moved on from Burgas, on the Black Sea, to Thessaloniki, Greece when the World Trade Center was destroyed. It was interesting to note the young women in the pub were dancing on the tables while watching the news footage??

Ille's latest contribution to the art world, I hope to be viewing this in real life very soon.

Belgrade to Sarijavo, Bosnia

It took a full hour yesterday afternoon to walk to the Eastrn Railway Station, but once there it was a simple task to get a ticket for the overnight train Prague to Belgrade, Serbia. Getting a meal was equally simple, but the choice was almost Hobson's with just Burger King on one corner and McDonald's on the other. Selection was made simple by the fact that the latter was 50 feet closer, but served as a timely reminder as to why I don't frequent these places. The food was shite (but filled a hole), while the obvious regualar 'grazers' at this establishment were living proof that they did put Humpty back together again!

Having opted for the 15 Euro fare (370 miles x 8 hours) I was only afforded a seat rather that a sleeper, but up to seconds before departurnde it seemed I had secured a compatment to myself. That's when Milan Karobic and his mate Nenad Dugic burst in announcing, "we only chose these seats because you looked interesting". It was one of those moments you wished you'd put a bag over your head, but once we had settled down to some conversation it became clear that they too were interesting. For 20'somethings they were extremely well travelled, and when the chat got round to contemporary music they sure as hell knew their stuff. There was never going to be any chance of serious sleep until we had cleared both sides of the Hungarian/Serbian border by which time we had covered most places between Mongolia and the Grand Canyon, plus Led Zeppelin to The Clash. In addition, during their visit to Amsterdam they had bought endless amounts of cakes, biscuits, waffles etc so we were able to share a fine picnic.

Sleep comes like a drug, in God's country (U2) so I woke just 15 minutes from Belgrade surprisingly refreshed. They on the other hand seemed a bit phased and announced they would be heading home for more sleep. However, that was not before they put me right about visiting the city. I hope they, and the people of Serbia will forgive me for saying that the tour was short lived, but it was interesting walking the banks of the River Sava for an hour or so. You'll note I have spared the reaer yet another bridge photograph!

By noon it was time to move on again, and once again most conveniently there was a bus about to leave for Sarejavo, Bosnia. Once again there was plenty of space on the bus to start with, so was able to concentrate on the lap top until the battery died on me. At the first stop I grabbed an espresso and wandered around outside, to find a man with a huge BBQ spit-roasting a whole sheep, I only wish there was time to have taken him up on it.

After about 2 hours we reached the border town of Zvornik, nestling on the Lake of Drina, where on both sides the officials were very friendly and relaxed and soon had us on our way. Passing the first 2 of a 6 tunnel complex we could already see the lower slopes of The Bakans appearing, with neat, tiny villages and farms it was difficult to imagine that only a short few years ago the region was 'war-torn'. We had also picked up some new passengers, my new travelling companions being Tamara and Marina, both in their late teens and at university. With good English, they were able to fill in all the detail I would otherwise have missed.

As for birds, they were always goin to take a back seat on this trip, but I did add Coal Tit and a late Fieldfare to the 'trip list', while a distant Eagle Sp passed unidentified.

There was a advert hording in the city that caught my eye. I have no idea what for but the caption read:- 'A gentleman is simply a patient wolf'.

This photo, best known to itself, wouldn´t upload yesterday. Me and my Dad in Prague.

Milan Karobic
Nenad Dugic

Me Waffling again

The three of us

Surrounding hills of Sarijavo

The Art Acadamy

One of manz Moscs

War damage still visible on the Library

General cirty scene

12th centurz church

Dowbtown Sarijavo
The new Sarijavo growing

More war damage

More surrounding hills

It has been hell og a game getting this post off, as Ive had to use a local computer. Press S and zou get a hzphen etc, etc please excuse the faults.

Buda -Pest and the Blue Danube

I'd like to start today's post by welcoming all new readers from the Eastern Countries of Europe, which I have passed through this trip, who seem to have swollen in numbers overnight. I have only given the Blog Link to very few of you, but from the Statistic Counter it looks like you have been passing it on. Thank you very much for that, the more readers the better as far as I'm concerned and it's pleasing to note that there are readers in every country I have covered on this tour. Also a message to the young Hungarian couple who helped me at the Bratislava Bus Station,it was rather a rapid departure for me, but I hope you managed to scribble the address down?

Front of the Basilica.

and the back.

They knew I was coming and named a street in my honour! That's how they spell Bagsy in Hungary.

The day started with a real bang as a clap of thunder at 04-16 must have woken everyone in the hotel. By the sound of the torrential rain it could easily have prevented my sight-seeing but by the time breakfast was over so was the rain. However, first things first, I had to make arrangements to move on later in the day and as the string pull on the zip of my money belt had already snapped (catastrophe) I knew it was going to be 'one of those days'. The Coach Station, just ten minutes away, couldn't accommodate me as they only have a service during the summer months, so the train was the only other option. Deciding on the direct 8 stops on the Metro to one of 3 Budapest railway stations, I was first faced with having to obtain some Forintis (Hungarian currency) so had to search out a Cambio before I could go anywhere. It was unfortunately not 'the' station from which trains run to Belgrade, but got all the help I needed to further my plans later.

Not far from the city center, I started my 'self propelled' tour at the Basilica before heading towards a walk along the banks of the Danube. As I was already in Pest, the city on the north bank, I was soon in sight of Buda a short walk away across any of a series of bridges. I simply love bridges in all their forms, so opted for the road/pedestrian one that reminded me of Brooklyn Bridge in New York. With not too many people and the sun now shining it made for a pleasant stroll, except on the down side, for the number of smokers, especially young women. It is impossible to dodge them, with just about every tenth breath being smoke filled.

Continuing the walk into the old town of Buda from where excellent views were afforded of the Hungarian Parliament building across the river opposite. My return to the Pest side coincided in a beer bar which wasn't allowed to sell beer until 15-00,, it was only 1pm. Full of smoke, as they all are, I managed a quick fresh lime juice and soda before heading back to the hotel, now JUST a 3 mile walk away. A quick look in the local market was interesting, especially the wine shops, but was surprised not to see any Tokaji, a favourite tipple of mine especially with a good pudding. As mentioned before my intension is to head for Serbia next and I'm planning to get the overnight train - so here's hoping!

Three views of the Brooklyn Bridge lookalike.



The Danube River looking west.

The Danube River looking east.

This is the Hung'arian Parliament, the people of Great Britain may know what that feels like tomorrow?

Parliament and Tourist Boat.

Maybe a Bridge too far?

A fine selection of sausages in the local market.

and one for Mark and Helen Forster, looks like ya man is playing Budapest too in July. Hope you both enjoy the gig. It was interesting to see that John Mayall & the Bluesbreakers are also playing here in June, at the ripe age of 77, not bad for a youngster!

A Bohemian Rhapsody

A little forward planning should have seen me on the 09-30 Vienna, Meidling to Praha (Prague), Czech Republic, but with a quick breakfast and some slick assistance at the station I caught the 08-25. Leaving right on time, it was a little frustrating to find a stop of a full 20 minutes less than a mile down the line. However, interest was maintained with the stop being adjacent to an inner-city motorway construction site with lorries like a swarm of bees, coming and going, and all manner of heavy plant in operation. Yawn!

Ninety minutes later we arrived at the border town of Breclav where the Austrian train crew were relieved by the Czech team, but not before Jackdaw, Mute Swan, Turtle Dove and Cormorant were added to the 'trip list'. I'd forgotten to mention the family of Peregrines in the cathedral yesterday every cathedral should have one), while also before the border with the train at slow speed, a fine adult male Marsh Harrier was seen quartering the track side.

It was now time to start yet another 'country list', and to recap on the past couple of days. Croatia = 20 species, Slavenia = also 20 and Austria trailing on 16. At the time of leaving Austria the 'trip list stood at 36.

As though flicking a switch the building become far more austere, including huge, dark apartment blocks and villages that had seen better days, with barely a structure having escaped the grafitti vandals aerosol - Rael imperial Aerosol Kid, exits into daylight his spray-gun hid.

Prague Railway Station

The Czech National Museum

The view from Saint Wenceslas Statue looking north.

Saint Wenceslas Square, Prague
A long way to come to see a bloke on a horse!

The view from the statue at night