Central America Tour 04 - Part II

With my civic duties completed it's time to return to normality, but not before completing the Central American tour of 2004. We cleared El Salvador (viva) via the Honduran border heading initially for the capital Tegucigalpa, then further north to visit the

Maya Ruins at Copan. Not as large a complex as either Chichen Itza or Tikal, but equally important historically.

Maya Stelae Stone, their true function has never been proven but could be the counterpart of our grave stones, alters or erected to celebrate major ceremonies?

A pity time and space do not allow as there are dozens of photographs given over to the amassing stone carvings here.

A bonus indeed, dozens of Scarlet Macaw that were totally confiding.

The flight to Islas de la Bahía ("Bay Islands" part of the second largest Barrier Reef in the World) Honduras was, to say the least a 'white knuckle' affair with the biggest laugh coming when we found all the seat belts were too short to go around any of us (yes! even a skinny kid like me).

A totally wild and rugged place with few people, the 2 memories were of being befriended by one of the local gangs, and finding a Scissor-tailed Flycatcher roost of an estimated 1,000 birds. Or hope had been to see Whale Shark here, but no such luck.

It an was equally nerve wracking flight back to Managua, Nicaragua

but great fun in the small villages along the way to our next destination including Tipitapa on the edge of 2 great lakes named after the country and capital. Another coach ride capital to capital saw us arrive at San Jose, Costa Rica where unfortunately we had to say goodbye to Jim, someone had to go back and keep the oil flowing.

Billy and I continued on to the small town of Arenal, a perfect stepping stone to view the Volcán Arenal. The volcano was dormant for hundreds of years and exhibited a single crater at its summit, with minor fumaroles activity, covered by dense vegetation. In 1968 it erupted unexpectedly, destroying the small town of Tabacón. Due to the eruption three more craters were created on the western flanks but only one of them still exists today. From there we

continued to the Monteverde Cloud Forest and to what lay within.

Bare-shinned Screech-Owl was singularly the first time we tried 'digi-scoping', not a bad start eh?

Black-faced Solitaire, locally known as the Garden Gate Bird after a call just like a wrought iron one swinging on the breeze.

Three-wattled Bellbird, also named after its 'call', while the


Resplendent Quetzel needs no explanation as to the origin of that name.

Purple-throated Mountain Gem

Panama City and its surrounds was our final port of call, and what a way to end The Grand Tour!

The Panama Canal one of my top 5 man-made constructions in the world for me. In the end Billy got fed up waiting for me wondering at this epic feat of engineering.

Despite 48 years at sea I never got to traverse the Canal, but should things go to plan that will be rectified next year.

There is world wide controversy about the destruction of Rain Forest, but here there is no such problem. The Canal only operates on 'fresh water', so no rain forest - no rain, no rain - no fresh water, no fresh water - no Canal!

A favoured 'trick question' about the Canal is, "which direction does it run", the majority answer is east to west when in fact it is north to south.

A Mule used to tow ships into position within the lock, and named after their predecessors which were Donkeys.

Wildlife abounds in areas of rain forest such as Pipeline Road including

Three-toed Sloth we also saw Two-toed here as well.

This is Charlie (Red Dread) Anderson (Bass Player with 80's Two Tone/Ska band from Coventry, The_Selecter ) his wife Judy and their 2 sons. On our final day in Panama we had wandered a little further afield than intended and found ourselves many miles away from the city, in fact 'up a creek without a paddle'. After quite a wait, this was when the Anderson's picked us up and not only returned us from whence we came but also took us home, fed and watered us, took us to his studio (featured on biopic), filled us with beer & and his favourite 'white Jamaican Rum' then to a friend who took care of injured Harpy Eagles. You see, there is a HEAVEN!
Fancy trying some Ska?

Then take a listen to On My Radio probably The Selecter's best known hit #8 in UK Top Ten.

Plus a most interesting Charley Anderson Biopic

Goodbye Central America, goodbye Panama, goodbye Charley and Family.
Thanks for your hospitality!

160 Countries & Counting

Best laid plans of mice and men etc........ we won't, as advertised yesterday, be publishing the 2 post series of the Rare Birds of Dorset photographs due to an unexpected addition to the readership early last evening. The country concerned was part of one of the most exciting, if not 'the' most exciting and interesting adventures I have ever embarked upon. While a further 7 other nations were part of that trip, with 5 already being on the reader list, it was the wrongly preconceived idea about this place in particular that jogged all the memories that are to follow over the next 2 days. Admittedly, this is also a bit of an indulgence to myself so it is hoped forgiveness will follow?

In company with Billy (Rhubarb and Custard Crumble) Burke our jaunt started with a sprint through the airport as we were about to miss our connecting flight to Mexico City. From there we 'back-packed' overland to Mérida, Yucatán but found it just a little too far from our first destination.

A short bus ride brought us to the small town of Piste where, having travelled for some hours, we decided to book into the Best Hotel - this is it! However, it was only for a couple of nights and not all bad as on closer inspection you can see displaying Great-tailed Grackle at the top of the ladder, and it was just 2Km from

Chichen Itza seen here from the Bamboo Watchtower, giving great views of the whole complex pocking out above the tree tops.

Temple of the Warriors.

Pyramid of Kukulkan

In time honoured fashion Jim the Medic could not make up his mind about this trip, and at the last moment decided to rendezvous with us at Chetamul (in the nearest beer bar) on the Belize border. Within 15 minutes of his arrival we found him on this balcony sipping a beer - that's our Jim!

I had read about the bird life at Crooked Tree, Belize before leaving, so it was agreed to get the bus there. It wasn't funny to find the bus doesn't stop there, but it was certainly to the amusement of our fellow passengers when the driver dropped us off there.

You would have to wait for my memoirs to get all of the stories, so for the sake of brevity suffice to say we stayed in insect infested wooden huts as guests of 80 years old Randy Crawford (seen here right with the then Belize Deputy Prime Minister John Briceo) and his lovely 82 years old wife Grace. They, along with a family consisting of a cast of thousands, ran everything around there and between them could lay their hands on anything you wanted.

Among our many adventures here, we were invited as 'guests of honour' to the Annual Fish Festival. Jim, Randy, Billy, George Guest (an ex-pat who served in one of the Guards Regiments alongside Kenny Taylor one of our rig mates - what a coincidence?) his wife Shirley & Moi.

Jim the Medic.

Billy Crumble.

Yours Truly. As special guests we were given the best on offer which included plenty of 'home brew' and not just any old BBQ'ed Green Iguana (Bamboo Chicken as it's known locally) but pregnant females complete with unlaid eggs. I can honestly report that every mouthful was a delight.

All too soon the first week was over and on the bus to Belmopan the capital, where we hire a taxi to take us over the border to Tikal, Guatemala.

Not 20 yards into the new country and this appeared in the headlights, an Ocellated Turkey.

The Tikal Complex on an early, misty morning with Howler Monkeys and Montezuma Oropendola (the pendulous nests of which can be seen hanging from the right tree in the top picture) screeching from the trees made for a most eerie feeling.

All of this in a Jungle of Mighty Trees.

Remaining in Guatemala we next headed for Antigua

where we found much evidence of repeated earthquake activity including the Old Cathedral.

This ornate Carpet of Sand was found in the new cathedral, but we were here for something far more adventurous, we had decided to climb the active

Volcan Pacya

It was something of a route march to get there before even starting the climb, this being the subsidiary hill, and additionally

we had to be escorted by 'armed guards' as we were about to enter Bandit Country.

I'm proud to say it was only me that made it to the top (with guard of course)

but what a state we were in when finally reaching the beer bar at the bottom. All of this came about as a misunderstanding, as I thought the organiser had said "you'll be up to your knees in LAGER" not lava!

Ever onward, this time to Lake Atitlan, where once existed a bird the Atitlan Grebe,

we did keep our eyes open but then settled for some fresh fish for lunch.

Next came an experience to remember, a visit to the town of Chichicastenango or Chichi to you and me. It is a large indigenous town, lying on the crests of mountaintops at an altitude of 1,965 m (6,447 ft) and located about 140 km (87 mi) northwest of the capital Guatemala City.

It is said that this is the point on the continent where Christianity meets Paganism. The smoke issuing across the previous picture is from Pine Kernals burnt in tins and swung above the heads of what I could only describe as Shamen.

This is the spot I had 2 handcrafted necklaces made from Guatemalan green jade.

and if you want a Mask, you need look no further!

Eventually, we get to the country in question (about time too I hear you say)

El Salvador

Now, if your impression of this beautiful country is something like this, then BEST FORGET IT as much has changed since 1982. A beautiful land full of warm welcoming people, I am so please that someone has visited the Blog from such a memorable place. Waldo's Cafe was one of our highlights, and while all the very visable security is 'tooled up' (carrying guns) there is much room for high jinx, partying and having a good time.

The Capital San Salvador

Panoramica

Maya Temple

Typical Sidestreet.

Cascada Los Trecios Suchitoto.

The countries highest peak Volcano Santa Ana (borrowed photo).

This is my personnal welcome to the reader(s) in El Salvador, with a hope that the Blog Link will be passed on to others in your fine country. Bagsy

I am unable to resist the temptation to complete this story, albeit in presis form, so will get about uploading more photos this evening. Just wait 'til the book comes out!