Wonderful Land - The Shadows

We are delighted to welcome another country, and another Caribbean Island, to the readership by way of Dominica, number 162. Not to be confused with Dominican Republic, where I have yet to visit, some time was spent on this beautiful place during a cruise in 2004. Thanks for joining us, please pass the link on to your friends and families and hope you enjoy the ride.

	1	0.00%	Fiji
	1	0.00%	Albania
	1	0.00%	Guyana
	1	0.00%	Zambia
	1	0.00%	Nigeria
	1	0.00%	Macao
	1	0.00%	Botswana
	1	0.00%	Saint Lucia
	1	0.00%	Aruba
	1	0.00%
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	1	0.00%	Dominica
	1	0.00%	Bolivia

Before getting on to today's report proper, some information for 'birders' particularly but also others who may follow this trail behind me. The last 2 nights stay at the Aultguish Inn have been everything you could expect from a hostelry, with the geographical location probably being key to any bird watching expedition. The narrative of the last 2 posts will identify what may be seen, except the real chance of Otter, the odd Whale etc.

A good job I'd loaded optics, maps etc into the car before breakfast because as I made to leave the mother of all squalls hit and there I stood a little damp to say the least. From thereon it seemed to be a day of deteriorating weather with every element of BAD manifesting itself at one stage or another. There might have been a couple more 'bites of the cherry' as far as Golden Eagle was concerned, but not under these conditions, so by-passing Loch Maree I continued the 60 mile drive to the next location.

It should be said that due to the poor weather all of the wildlife shots are from the archive while all others were taken today.

With very short spells of sunshine en-route, there was chance to investigate some habitats visited in the past such as the bridge just south of Garve where Dipper breeds. There was a single bird on site, and I like to think it may have been one of last years offspring.

Further south, and just before the Torr roundabout, stands the Tollie Red Kite Feeding Station, a great little place Dave Tissington and I discovered on our visit last year.

3 Red Kite were seen today, but it was a much larger and more powerful raptor I wanted to see, however there was other business to attend to before that possibility. Passing the Culloden Battlefield, it was on to

the Slochd Summit, the highest point on the A9, and infamous for bad weather. Some say "if you can see the top it's going to snow", others say "if you can't see the top, it is snowing"! Just past this point on the right is a fine Grouse Moor where I have never failed to see Red Grouse. Today I couldn't even find the turn-off.

If I was going to see any Eagles today this would be the place, a single lane road at the Tomatin turn-off, where both Golden and White-tailed Sea Eagle are sometimes seen (eh Bomber?).

There are the 'headwaters' of the Findhorn River and one of the most scenic and tranquil places in this part of Scotland.

Common Gull have a breeding colony covering much of the area shown in the 2 photographs above.

One of the many tributaries of the River Findhorn.

Looking west down the Findhorn Valley.

I was only prepared to walk part way up this slope to get the photo!

There were Red Deer on the slopes but even they seemed to be cowering against the elements.

This is as far as you can go by car, on another day the 5 mile walk to the collapsed bridge would have been in order. I sat here for a full 3 hours this morning, stretching my legs as weather allowed, but it was never going to be an Eagle day!

A Golden Eagle? No unfortunately not, just a much smaller Common Buzzard. So. giving up, but only for the present, I pushed on to

Carrbridge, a village named after this fine structure. Luck certainly befell me as I tried for B&B, stumbling on Craigellachie House, the most beautifully appointed Guest House I have ever seen. With that accolade perhaps no need to say that I am staying for the next 2 nights. Having decanted my things, the search continued but with the RSPB Reserve at Loch Garten 'closed' I was at a loss as to where to find Capercaille.

The only site I know for Black Grouse, is in this direction but there were none here today. Things were starting to look a little grim, so next best is to slowly drive the forest roads in the hope of seeing either. This didn't work here,

but a stroke of luck did bring a 'chance' sighting of a large flock of Brambling*

without which the Year List would have remained the same.

With still some daylight left and still plenty of sleet, snow and now developing heavy rain, it was thought worth a drive to the Rothiemurchus Forest

to try our luck in this wonderful habitat. We came away empty handed, but there's another day tomorrow and no matter what the weather may bring you can be sure your correspondent will be in the field.

The Year (January) List now stands at 184

O Ye'll Tak' the High Road and I'll Tak' the Low Road

Just a quick look (to the left) from the doorway of the hotel this morning was enough to realise the day was going to be very much at the mercy of the weather.

There had been little more snow fall overnight but to the north (right) the clouds were most definitely gathering. News from mine-host suggested that at least one Golden Eagle had been seen with some regularity not far along this road

so stationed myself in a lay-by and scanned all around. For those following progress via a map, the circuit today would run from the Aultguish Hotel just north of Garve on the A 835, NW to the A832 completing the loop via Dundonnell, Laide, Kinlochewe and Achnasheen back to the A 835.

Unfortunately, no joy but the disappointment was mellowed by the stunning scenery which will be difficult to translate via photographs.

Reaching Little Loch Broom the weather changed dramatically, with no sign of snow and while just as cold the sun was even trying to show through. The Loch was a great disappointing as it is usually a formality to see all 3 of the more common British Divers, while on 2 previous visits White-billed Diver has been seen as well. However, when compared with the man working on this floating Salmon Farm, I considered my luck to be IN!

Along the side of the road this Red Deer was having trouble getting back onto the fenced Moor.

Next comes Gruinard Island, probably most noted for experiments with the anthrax bacterium during the Second World War,

while in the far distance lies the village of Laide

with more Deer closer at hand. From these fantastic vantage points much can be seen of the surrounding countryside and seaways, and it was no surprise that 2 juvenile White-tailed Sea Eagles* flew across the bay.

Here too were a group of both Atlantic Grey and Common Seals.

Further along in this clump of trees is the nest site of a pair of Sea Eagle, with close approach being, thankfully, extremely difficult.

With a 'scope, 20 x 20 vision and a little imagination the pale head of an adult bird can be seen in the nest.

On the subject of nests, this islet would make an ideal home for a pair of breeding Red-throated or Black-throated Divers which are common here but thus far not seen. A right turning in Laide leads to a single lane track taking you to the village of

where 'remote' is not the word. A hamlet of no more than half a dozen dwellings,

a fine herd of Highland Cattle,

a wintering flock

of true Rock Doves and much besides.

At Udrigle Beach

this Great Northern Diver

was feeding well inshore and seemingly having plenty of luck with the Crabs and

also preening and flapping.

A short wander back, a stop at Laide Jetty saw this

immature Gannet appear and start

diving for fish right in front of me.

I have never managed to capture

this sequence before

so made the most of it while the going was good.

PS - it didn't appear to catch anything. During this drive I encountered a dog walker and past the time of day, finding that he is a Sea Captain serving with the Scottish Maritime Lights Authority. Interesting to talk to, we found we had a mutual friend in Captain Peter Coul who worked on the Buchan Alpha Standby Vessel during my time and often shared a drink (along with his lady-friend Gladys) when we met up ashore. Small World!

During this time 5 Black Guillemot* were recorded, 4 in 'winter plumage' remained on the sea while an unmistakable all black Auk with white ovate wing patches had to be a 'summer plumage' bird. In addition Red-throated Diver plus Black-throated Diver* were also logged.

Soon after leaving this area the journey back begins as you sight Loch Ewe and the Ministry of Defence Ships Fueling Jetty and Storage Bund under this hill. As a Submariner this area was very familiar back in the 60's.

Next comes Loch Maree which is reputed to have the highest population of Golden Eagles in Scotland, I wonder what the people of the Isle of Skye make of that?

Having said that, I have never seen one here in all the years visited and

unfortunately my 100% record was kept in tact today.

Glen Docharty is undoubtedly one of the best sights along the way, so I was more that happy to perch here for half an hour, but still no Eagle,

and so back to the A835 and home for a hot toddy.

The Year (January) List now stands at 183