Saturday, 9 March 2013

Rocky Mountain Way - Joe Walsh (Eagles)

Historically, the Mountain Villager's of North Eastern Thailand, Laos and elsewhere in Indo-China, the The HMONG_PEOPLE, have had a strong allegiance with France throughout many years and conflicts. So, when that country found many thousands of them 'displaced' they set-aside a fertile region in French Guyana (similar in so many ways to that they knew 'at home') to continue living a peaceful life. They brought with them many of their historical agricultural techniques and now continue a decent existence growing produce and catering to the tourist trade. The Market, I was told, should not be missed.
 
Along with Jean Francois and Roong again
we drove through lush Rain Forest, recording
WING-BARRED SEEDEATER on the way

to the village of CACOA.
My breakfast, lunch and dinner were all supplied by this lady
selling the most delicious 'nibbles'.
Most of the older generation still use their native tongue, so Roong was able to communicate.
so much so, she managed to coax a huge bag of these
Lychee-like fruits for free!
YES! we have No Bananas.
This young lad deftly chopped away the copra from this Coconut
making a lovely drink for this little girl
who wouldn't share it with her sister.
Roong also discovered the total age of these 3 ladies - 252 years!
The 'specialty of the house'
LAO SOUP
 
That's the Tab-Nabs now
here comes the coffee.
BLACK-HEADED PARAKEET
While I am opposed to any wild creature in a cage
this did give an opportunity to see a beautifully marked
bird at close quarters, previously only seen in flight.
It had been ON and OFF all day
but then the rain started in earnest
sending all the punters
scurrying for the 'undercover' food stalls,
much to the delight of the stall-holders.
 FLOWER HMONG PEOPLE
in traditional dress, Vietnam.
 picture thanks to Wiki.

Friday, 8 March 2013

'Rock' Around the 'Cock' - Bill Haley and the Comets

Having found yesterday that the
OLD PORT is blocked on 3 sides by Mangroves, I made an
early start and taking the scenic route to see if any birds were to be found.
Reaching the sea wall a small flock of Sanderling, in company
with a Yellowlegs Sp, were spotted
along with these c3 ROSEATE SPOONBILL
perched in the bushes. What I hadn't realised was that I too had 
been 'spotted' by
 JEAN FRANCOIS OZOUX
 and his lovely wife ROONG
Now, before continuing, there are a number of factors that need considering when concluding what sort of a 'quirk of fate' this was! Having stated earlier that I am not on this adventure as a 'twitcher', but there are certain birds I will put in the extra mile for, Blood-coloured Woodpecker, Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock and  Capuchinbird, being 'the' 3 quoted before leaving England. Secondly, that I am now a few days behind the 'flexible itinerary', so had things followed the sketchy plan I wouldn't even be in French Guyana now, and finally, that Jean Francois and Roong live in Thailand it was 'inevitable' that we were to meet and the following table of events follow? I will now attempt to relate the conversation verbatim as it had me back on my heels. As I removed the camera from the bag and pointed in the direction of the Herons, Jean Francois approached and asked "are you a bird watcher". You know the reply to that, but the very next question was, "have you seen Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock", you also know the answer to that (it ain't in red!). Here I digress slightly to say I did, before setting out, have contact with FG Birding Pal Nial de Pradontal who said it unlikely that he could guide me, gave me a location to find this bird and "do not hesitate if more information is needed". Back to Jean next asking, "would you like to"? I'll give a moment here for you to 'catch up', while I finish 'punching the air' and grimacing like a Lottery Winner, if you are finding the answer to this one a little difficult.
 
Golden-headed Manakin
Next thing I know, I'm in their car heading for their apartment where they had 10 minutes worth of things to do, while I flicked through Jean's 'excellent' water-colour portfolio, and then back on the road for the 80Km drive south.
I remember thinking to myself,
this could be heaven or this could be Hell!
Hotel California
It was about 10:00 when we crossed into the Parc Naturel,
before which I had been briefed that mid-afternoon would be best 
for the 'target bird' and a stopped at another site should be productive.
Well, some may consider the word 'productive' to be appropriate
but we had to stand about for a full minute and a half before the 
appearance of this adult male
GOLDEN-HEADED MANAKIN,
coinciding with the only photo I had taken of
Jean's entire etchings, not an addition to the World List
but the first 'male' I had ever clapped eyes on!
Once again, stood there waiting patiently, it was easily gone 10:08 as a
male WHITE-BEARDED MANAKIN
appeared out of the jungle, accompanied by a female.
Departing the location some long while after it was decided, around noon, on another stop where a picnic of salad, pate, crab, prawns, fresh baked baguette, fromage, jambon etc, etc. I was only glad that my contribution, the drinks (oh, you may have noticed the beer) , was accepted.
Our eating took place while watching
at least c17 SWALLOW-TAILED KITE swirling across a blue sky
and the occasional inquisitive
GOLDEN-HANDED TAMARIN
peered out of the foliage.
SWALLOW-TAILED KITE
 
 Photo-Call for the Humans as we entered 
TRÉSOR NP
The steep down-hill path to the site was not an easy one, although on volcanic rock underfoot continuous flowing water, root-stock, fallen trees and the
lack of light all added to the hazards
as we arrived at the viewing area overlooking the Lek!
Heard well before they were seen
the first male
GUIANAN COCK-of-the-ROCK
was tantalisingly close but obscured by undergrowth.
with silent patience the views got nearer and clearer
and I think it can be left at that.
In all we reckoned there were somewhere in the region
 of 20 individuals, including just a single female.
The 30 minutes walk back up the steep incline was a bit of a ball breaker,
but the continuing thoughts of what we had just witnessed
would have spurred anyone on.
 Stopping briefly at the Manakin site on the way back,
we were lucky to 'pick-up' on this male
PURPLE HONEYCREEPER
unfortunately the light was now poor.
As this is
SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE VIREO
it makes the fifth 'World Lifer' of the day as
c2 RED-BILLED PIED TANAGER were also seen. 
A Golden-headed Manakin was also still there.
In the
there were some good views from the hilltops across the Rain Forest Canopy as we wended our way back to Cayenne. A HUGE THANK YOU goes out to Jean Francois and Roong for their grand hospitality!