Time is Money, and a Good Time is Even More Money

Not time for a proper post today. We leave Bogota in about 30 minutes to fly South West 200 miles to Cali in the western Andes. Today was a completely different ball game to yesterday, but more of that when I get time. For now asta la vista.

Birding Bogota - Day One

Bogota from the Northern Hills

Our first full day birding, starting at 05-30, could be described as a little like the Curate's Egg - good in parts. Bogota is built in a natural bowl surrounded on all side by big hills and our first destination,Cerro Guadalupe, was to the west. Here at some altitude the low cloud was dropping moisture and there wasn't a bird to be heard, let alone seen. Our guides, Steve Bird, Gina Nichol and local expert Carl Downing described the early situation as unheard of. It was a full 2 hours before we even identified a bird, even the so called ever present Great Thrush were nowhere to be seen. By now the light rain had ceased and the sun was trying to get through as we looked on our first 'lifer' a Glowing Puffleg. Photographing was tried but everything was against this, so we waited and soon were blessed by Coppery Puffleg and Sparkling Violetear. Next came the tiny and none to common Tyrian Metaltail making it 4 Hummingbirds in a row. Next we managed to find a Black-crested Warbler that was not very obliging, but we were able to redress this later with some good views. A most striking Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager showed next along with Ash-coloured Tapaculo and as we made our way back down the hill we found the elusive and endemic Mattoral Tapaculo said to be showing well for this 'mouse like' little bird.

Keeping in with the Local Police

Next we hit the Tomine Gravel Pit some 30 minutes down the road, in search of our next endemic, we didn't have to wait long. As we headed to the watercourse several Eastern Meadow Larks, mostly in song, were seen, followed by Merida and Blue-winged Teal, American Coot, Pied-billed Grebe and White-tailed Kite, recently split from Black-shouldered. We then picked up the first of what was to be about a dozen Spot-flanked Gallinule and then the subject of our quest. Bogota Rail is considered rare and declining in numbers but we probably saw 6 at rthis site. Before leaving we put up 4 Noble Snipe a welcome addition to the list. It was then a 11/2 hour drive to the next destination, Lake Fuquene where almost immediately we picked up Apolinar's Marsh Wren, another endemic and the Bogota sub-species of Least Bittern.


Spot-flanked Gallinule
Bogota Rail
Apolinar's Marsh Wren
Least Bittern

Haven't Seen Bobby Moore Yet!

Hi everybody. Arrived,safely, in Bogota at 16-00 local (21-00 GMT) afetr an uneventful journey door to door. Air France was splendid serving a light snack and coffee on the way to Charles de Gaulle, a 90 minute wait and we were in the air again. Same, same really with very attentive cabin staff, decent food, a drink if you wanted it and, most important, no delays. In fact the whole journey seemed very quick.

Formalities at Columbia's capital airport were swift, polite and efficient, Steve Bird our 'group leader' was at the terminal and even the hotel trasfer was laid on. Both Darragh and I had guessed what the first identifiable bird would be, and he was spot on with Cattle Egret, but not to be outdone I did come second with Black Vulture. The Egrets were seen as we made our landing approach, and were in company of a number of Green Ibis and pefore we pulled up to the stand Eared Dove was also seen in numbers. Outside the airport the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrows were in full song, while at the hotel 3 of the afore mentioned Vultures flew over as Feral Pigeons forraged on the grass verges. There was a real highlight as well as half a dozen Brown-bellied Swallow circled above us. This wasn't just a 'lifer' for me, but also Darragh and Steve, a good start for the trip you might say! We, in company with our new found Dutch friend Bart, went for a sortie but only saw more of the same, and the rapidly fading light made for poor photographs. I'm hoping to produce better than these 2 images before much longer.

Eared Dove

Great Thrush

So finally today, before a much needed shower and kip, Love to Julie, Lisa and Families and the same to Ille. Watch these pages or miss out!!

Leaving on a Jet Plane

The day of leaving is finally upon us and I'm all but ready to go. Edel and Marion flew from Tromso to London yesterday then drove down this morning. Not enough time with them, but if the're here when I get back (they should be) we can make up then. So, a message for those of you who pass 'Slight Return' occasionally, if the lights are on it's only the Noggies! (that's probably racist and definitely not PC)

I must say I've felt a little humbled the last few days, as the well wishing has been almost continuous, with texts, e-mails, phone calls, meals out etc, etc some from most unexpected quarters. Thank you all for that, and hope I can keep you all up to date via these pages. Without wishing to single anyone out it was 'brilliant' to hear from both Joe Cockram, now feverishly studying at Bournemouth Uni and Jo(sephine) Lawrence, from the Cabinet Office, a new found friend this year. Most unexpected guys, and most welcome!

So, it's down to JD's shortly to meet even more friends, have a lamb shank and hopefully get the 18-15 National Express to Heathrow. I hope to be wishing you all a proper Merry Christmas from a far warmer place on the day, but if I can't log-on, here it is now -

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Finally, a few images from the archives just so no one gets withdrawal symptoms if I don't achieve the said access.

Asta la Vista (note - just naturally into Spanish)

Chilean Skua - Beagle Channel, Argentina

Black-faced Siskin - Gypsy Cove, Falkland Islands

Blue-eyed (Imperial) Cormorant - Ushuaia, Argentina

Austral Thrush - East Falkland Isle

Southern Lapwing - Ushuaia, Argentina

Falkland's Grass Wren - Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Falkland's Flightless Steamer Duck (male) - Port Stanley

Falkland's Flightless Steamer Duck (female) - Port Stanley

Falkland's Flightless Steamer Duck (recently arrived) - Port Stanley

Who'd Want to be in a House Full of Leake's - Me!

A huge thank you to Sooty and Gill to start this post, an excellent meal, great conversation and a promise to do it again on my return. For those of you who eat out in Weymouth and go Indian, Chilli's opposite the train station is a good bet. Can't say I've ever been big on this type of food, but certainly enjoy it on that odd occasion, last evening was full of good flavours, quality ingredients and friendly, polite service. There doesn't have to be a criticism but if I voiced one it would be to vary the muzak, U2 have made a good deal of excellent tracks, but nowhere enough to fill an entire evening!

Today has been total getting ready, seeming like every time one task was completed two others appeared. Any rate sprinting blocks are hammered in, so just waiting for the gun. So, this being the penultimate post from the UK for many a day, I'll get straight on with the second and final part of the Yukon visit.

Having warmed to Heather immediately, she straight away went on to earn more 'team points' by saying it would be Moose for lunch - yum, yum. Perfectly complimented by a Mediterranean salad and freshly baked bread, I can report that it was some of the finest meat I've eaten. After our repas (whoops, better not use that word - private joke) meal Colin had to return to work, and collect the Elk which was planned for dinner, while Heather had to busy herself with tending the horses, paperwork plus a number of other things. She was most concerned about what I might do, I assured her that after a look around their most interesting house, I would be more than happy to spend the rest of the rainy afternoon in the wood shed. She was bemused by this until I pointed out the birds outside were common place to her, but likely to be a first sighting ever for me. As will be seen from the photographs below it proved very profitable, with 3 'world lifers' entering the log.

The area just outside of the house where Heather's father fashioned all the timber for their house.

On arrival I was issued with the leather cowboy hat.

Side elevation of the Leake homestead.

Front elevation.
Invited to stay as long as I liked, this was the out-house I would have to sleep in.

If I described the look around the house as 'interesting' it would understate the experience entirely. The structure was centered on the lounge / living room, where a huge natural rock had been left in place with the footings dug around it. Alone it would have made the most novel centerpiece, but with the strategically place wood burner fire it may be unique? The photos give a limited look of the decor most of which, despite Colin's hunting prowess, was found around the forest floor. The wolf skins are attributed to him as are the fishing lure, all crafted by him from mostly natural materials. It was obvious a whole lot of thought had gone into the design and construction and given they also have 2 daughters (and a young lad who apparently spends more time here than at home) and the local conditions, creature comforts would be paramount.

Some of Colin's trophies from the back-woods.

Heather, closest camera, 2 friends Colin, Shona, Amber and young friend Joseph

Similar shot, except for me with Colin's 'longbow'.

It was getting near time to leave, but Colin assured me that we would be back at Toad River in time for the Greyhound. Before that, there was to be another treat, the Elk. Served with boiled potatoes and roast vegetables, only a good Burgundy counld better things. It was better than good, and by the time of leaving all I needed was a kip, I was going to the right place. A long coach ride under the cover of darkness was made shorter by a welcome sleep, and my memories of some of the finest people and hospitality I can remember.

Purple Finch (male)

Golden-crowned Sparrow

Caribou

American Robin - what a garden list?

My best wishes go to the Leake's. It's always good to receive your e-mails, hope you got mine with this link.

Yukon Have Elk & Moose!

Last nights get together was a little boisterous, to say the least, while in the melee of yarns, tales and ditties many went unfinished. When the moose photograph was posted the other day I said I'd relate the tale of eating the meat, which falls in nicely with a few topics from last night.

The main thrust of my North American trip in the spring of 2008, was to travel the full length of the Alaska Highway by road. Starting at El Segundo Beach, Los Angeles most of the journey was undertaken on the efficient Greyhound coaches, and after a few diversions to view Las Vegas, Flagstaff, Phoenix plus Yellowstone and Yosemite National Parks the trip began in earnest. Probably 'the' highlight, for a multitude of reasons, had to be an unscheduled stop at Toad River, Yukon Territory between Dawson Creek and Whitehorse. Here the coach stopped and I joined the driver for a coffee in the small roadside bar, where he suggested I might stay for a few days. It was indeed the 'wilderness', which was what I had come to see, so with his assurance another bus would be along some days later I booked into one of half a dozen sparse but comfortable wooden huts on the edge of the lake.

Yukon Territory, Canada

Toad River Camp - the huts are just out of picture, to the left.

Hospitality was the bye word here between the small population and it seemed in very short time I was a member of the community. Weather was the main concern, as the rain had been persistent and was now turning to snow, but from my room I could view the full length of the lake from where I saw 21 species of wildfowl during the stay. In addition there were Elk, Moose, White-tailed Deer, Red Squirrel, Marmot, Chipmunk plus an active Beaver lodge right next door. Much of the time was spent observing from the cabin, where Dark-eyed Junco, Boreal and Black-capped Chickadee, Say's Phoebe, Swainson's Thrush and White-winged Crossbill were daily visitors. In addition a bird subject of discussion last evening, the Whiskey Jack (yes with an 'e'), was ever present, prompting us to wonder why or how the Grey Jay had come by this nickname?

White-tailed Deer

Beaver Lodge

Dark-eyed Junco

Black-capped Chickadee

Whiskey Jack

Grey Jay

Priority, every morning, as daylight crept across the distant mountains was a large mug of strong coffee, as once I've had my caffeine 'hit' I'm up for anything. That was when a stranger (they were all strangers to me) came in made his first question "where are you from partner". Only Mars would have sparked a more jubilant reaction as I told him "England", to which he countered, " finish your coffee, I have 10 minutes business then I'll take you on a tour". Not believing my luck, I did just that and was soon making the acquaintance of Colin Leake, Maintenance Manager for the Alaska Highway. He suggested collecting my bags and checking out, after which we retraced the route I had taken on the bus. By now the snow was getting heavy, and Colin was taking me to the highest point on the highway, some 40 miles south. What before had been open road, was now all but impassable but his 4x4 got us through and we headed back from whence we came. In both directions there had been a fair amount of mammal activity, but at one stop we encountered a small herd of Bison. Probably naturally, Colin is a hunter, his nickname being 'Trailsniffer', but told me these magnificent looking beasts were left alone as protected. I was to find out more about his hunting prowess later.

American Bison

Returning to the vehicle having capture the image above, he informed me that he had phoned his wife Heather who was now expecting us for lunch. All she needed to know was would I prefer Elk or Moose, as Colin would have to call in at the Maintenance Base to collect the meat. It transpired that the generators at home were sufficient for low domestic supply but could not cope with 'freezer' power, so his company provided the necessary. My request was if both were on the menu, it would be a double 'first'.

Turning off the main highway, we drove down a narrow metaled lane for what seemed like miles until by a pile of recently sawn trees we turned into the Leake homestead. As we passed the logs Colin explained how his father in law had fashioned each and every plank, on a bench saw, and between them had built the fine house that now stood before us. Heather met us at the door, a warm, friendly woman anyone would take to immediately. The introductions soon over we entered the house feeling a drastic change in temperature, accompanied by the smells of cooking, burning wood and pine logs. I had to pinch myself!

some other birds of Toad River

American Wigeon - numerous and confiding.

Barrow's Goldeneye - this astounding duck was approachable with a little patience.

Canvasback - always distant, but afforded this shot.

Slavonian (Horned) Grebe - good numbers of breeding pairs.

Ring-necked Duck - common.

Bonaparte's Gull - only half a dozen seen in this area.

Cinnamon Teal - the only ones seen on this trip.

Mew Gull - subject of another part of the conversation last night, thought distinctive as an adult, but would you pick one out at Ferrybridge? Only a few around Toad River, but some large breeding colonies further north.

Bufflehead - what a little 'cracker'! A few on the lake and common throughout the YT.

Snow Goose - Unlike the 'thousands' seen on another trip over the eastern side of the sub-continent, this was the only one seen.

Trumpeter Swan - The only one at the lake, receiving adverse attention from the Canada Geese, with others elsewhere.

to be continued.

Close to Leaving

Is there ever a good time to get toothache? The short answer is NO, but 4 days before setting off on a 3 month adventure makes the situation even worse. Anyway, I've been to see 'the man' who has prescribed a few anti-biotics, and I'm good. Not so last evening when I had to resort to going next door for help where, I'm sure Joy won't mind the analogy, The Witch wove her spell. Dispensing some green, Vietnamese jollop (quite honestly I'd have administered cow dung if convinced it would relieve the pain), this potion, rubbed externally on my lower cheek bone did the bizz within 10 minutes. Good as new, I was able to embark on yet another farewell dinner this evening, as a few like minded 'birders' met in JD's (north) for a pre-Christmas good-bye.

Paul Harris, John Down. Darragh Croxson, Peter Coe and the good looking one

Despite some spells of 'fair' weather I haven't ventured very far in the last couple of days, 'sea watching' being the least favourite of my bird watching activities, but apart from that I don't think I've missed much as I continue to make at least some provisional plans for the upcoming trip. Byron's notes have kept me very busy and I have now got much of the Ecuador leg in place, despite needing much more time there. My mates from Norway arrive tomorrow, as they have decided a few weeks in Weymouth will be preferable to another winter in Tromso, so for the sake of a 'couple of bob' in the meter they will look after my trappings while I'm away. If you're passing and see any lights it's only them!

For a little padding here are a couple of images from the archives.

Australian Magpie - Australia

Tufted Puffin (not the Kent bird) - Alaska

Shaheen - Sri Lanka

Stork-billed Kingfisher - Sri Lanka