Side by Side - Ornithology & Archaeology

Charles el Taxi was absolutely right when he described Alburfera de Media Mundo as being 'alive with birds'. However, his suggested boat ride to the end of the Laguna and back wasn't all it might have been on a good day. Probably I have got so used to seeing so many birds, and wildlife in general, that when it's a bit quiet I start getting one on? We followed a similar plan as yesterday and drove the full length of the lake and more or less the first species we clapped eyes on was an addition to the trip list, but unlikely to be seen at Radipole, Ruddy Duck. Despite my vast and often travels in all of the America's, this is the first time I have recorded this beautiful little duck outside of the UK. The second was even more welcome as a pair of Red Shoveler past by but too far away for a decent photo. According to the book these would be well to the north of their usual range, and as I've said before it's not the best guide in the world, and I doubt even I could cock-up that bill. This was the only 'lifer' of the day, but there were other additions to the 'trip list' such as Great Grebe, White-tufted Grebe and Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant. Of the latter, so many birders seem to rave over this one, but while it would be wrong to call it dowdy, there are far more spectacular birds in the world deserving of the name.

The 14 years old Oarsman who pulled his little heart out.

Neotropic or Olivacious Cormorant in 'breeding plumage'.

Three shots of

Great Grebe

showing signs of mating.

Most of the birds mentioned above were seen from the rowing boat which took me over a good proportion of the lake, and initially pulled by a wiry, strong looking adult man. However, he only rowed across the lake, which I have to say reminded me so much of rowing across the Fleet, and then handed the oars to a 14 year old lad. This in turn led me to think of my older grandson Lee, who will be 14 this very year. With no disrespect meant I couldn't see him pulling a boat across the Fleet let alone what this child did. For 3 and a half hour, without a stop, he just kept going and didn't even get short of breath, and while I rarely tip anyone, this was an occasion to waive the rule! On the way back, it started to get hard going especially with the wind, on the bow, freshening so I took the opportunity to climb ashore at a convenient slipway. The moment I reach the rough road a Short-eared Owl flew past quartering the reeds in search of prey. Looking beyond that and to the sea, there were literally 1,000's of Pelicans (both Brown and Peruvian) with a whole mix of sea-birds which were next to be investigated.

These were just some of the scenes down at the sea shore, in this picture there are to my knowledge, Semipalmated Sandpiper (you'll have to take my word for that), Hudsonian Whimbrel, American Oystercatcher, Franklin's, Grey and Belcher's Gulls, Royal, Sandwich & Elegant Terns, Black Skimmer and Neotropic Cormorant.

Somebody, no names no pack-drill, stepped a little too close, 'putting up' mainly Franklin's and the Skimmers.

Black Skimmer with damaged wing, it could fly (see below) but only just.

See!

Lists Update

RUDDY DUCK

RED SHOVELER*

GREAT GREBE

WHITE-TUFTED GREBE

SHORT-EARED OWL

MANY-COLOURED RUSH-TYRANT

Trip Species Total - 792 Lifers - 523

Bandurria

When was the last time you had a thoroughly interesting afternoon for £4.17p, including an ancient monument older than the Egyptian Pyramids, Chichan Itza and the Great Wall of China? I have just returned from Bandurria, which was in fact £4.20 but you've got to get a bit of discount haven't you? To start with there was a 10Km taxi ride to the site (plus of course the return), no entry fee and a compulsory guide. For years, in fact 4,500, Caral just a few miles north of Huacho was thought to be the oldest settlement not only in Peru, but on the whole Sub-Continent. That is until recently when archeologists started investigating this site, finding clothing, fishing gear and household items thought to well out-date the neighboring village.

By no means on the scale of other ancient sites, this tiny village gave me quite a buzz, as the oldest in the land.

The 'Lagoon', main water supply for the settlement, looking to the north.

Like the Fleet, a watercourse where fresh and salt waters meet, looking south.

Central Colonnade

Plaza Circular. These people who pre-dated the Inca by about 3,000 years were Sol and Lunar worshipers.

Haveing said that, evidence of 'human sacrifice' has been found at this site.

Afternoon at The Plaza

The plinth where once stood one of eight pyramids.

A 'Scope, a 'Scope My Kingdom for a 'Scope

There was a little controversy over the taxi fare first thing this morning, soon overcome. The doorman at the hotel had told me 2 soles would get me to Laguna el Paraiso, which I considered extremely good value for what I thought was a 6Km ride. The first cab I hailed wanted 80 soles but this would include the taxi being with me for 3 hours. Nevertheless, this was a massive difference from the first estimate and that is when the hotel manager stepped in. He too thought the cabby was taking the Mickey and sent him packing, then explained the doorman had thought I was going by bus. Quickly, he arranged for another car and this time it was S/.60, just over a 'tenner', for the ride and 3 hour stay so I was happy with that. The initial plan had been to be dropped off, do my days birding then hail a return cab from there. The manager advised against that saying it would be impossible, when we got there I saw exactly what he meant.

Charles, the driver, had a decent command of English and put me in the picture about things on the way. The drive was closer to 20Km and on the way we must have seen at least a dozen chicken farms. Each consisted of about 20 extremely long huts, shrouded in canvas not allowing any light of day. By definition, there were the attendant chicken lorries, each overborne with small, plastic cages shipping the hapless birds to an early exit. At about 15Km we turned off the Pan American Highway onto a broken road, giving us about 5Km of discomfort. All the way had been desert and now either side were steep hills before the lake opened up in front of us.

Immediately we could seen many hundreds of Wildfowl, but none very close to the shore. We drove the full length, taking a few shots as we went, but nothing of any value. For the first time this trip I was wishing there was a telescope available, but had been able to identify the most prolific waterbird, Andean Coot (100's), the second White-cheeked Pintail (many dozens) and third Chilean Flamingo (about 100). There were also a few Snowy Plover, Semipalmated Sandpiper, Neotropic Cormorant, Blue-winged Teal, American Oystercatcher and a single juvenile Peregrine. All of these I had seen before, as was the case with an attendant Wren-Like Rushbird, but additions to the World List, along with the Andean Coot, were c2 Horned Coot and a Correndera Pipit.

The time was soon up, but so was the heat of the day so we were ready to leave. On the way back we stopped at a small bushy area where I found what look every bit like Pacific Parrotlet, Yellow-rumped Siskin, also new to me, and House Sparrows. This afternoon I went in search of DVD discs to download some of the 'thousands' of photos on my lap top, get more provisions and got acquainted with Peruvian coffee. Every bit as good as Colombian and Venezuelan I had 2 cups. Another day over, and the prospect of another birding site tomorrow, so talk to you then!

BELCHER'S GULL

INCA TERN

BLACK OYSTERCATCHER

GREY GULL

PACIFIC GULL

PERUVIAN BOOBY

KILLDEER

ANDEAN COOT*

HORNED COOT*

CORRENDERA PIPIT*

WREN-LIKE RUSHBIRD Lists Update

The 'Trip List' now stands at - 786
'World Lifers' - 522
'Endemics' - 57

These two seemed to be enjoying each others company, but were desperate to get closer to the shore.

Andean Coot

What I am considering to be the male bird was brave enough to get closer.

It soon became obvious there was a nest close by,

and Dad was determined to feed the nippers.

Job done, he swam out for more groceries.

Correndera Pipit

Some of the many Chilean Flamingos, with good numbers of Wildfowl in the background, and the Huacho Lighthouse in the far distance.

Adult Chilean Flamingos showing diagnostic 'half' black bill.

In flight the 'blueish' legs and reddish pink knee joints can be seen.

What a magnificent sight!

Wren-Like Rushbird

Almost certain these are Pacific Parrotlet, but seem out of range?

Can you confirm please Dave (Penney)

and this Pipit-like bird is presenting an ID problem, I think it's either a Miner or a Canastero??

Lima to Huacho

I woke to the news that the national bus strike continues, and likely to do so until Saturday at the earliest. So, there's more than one way of skinning a cat, find out how much your journey will be by taxi. Compared to UK prices they are paltry, so wasn't surprised that the 150Km north to Huacho would be $60. I can manage that, but there is always the problem here, and of course in many parts of the world, the quality of car and driver. The 'beat up' Toyota looked like it might get there, and I'd informed the hotel doorman of my destination, agreed price and no tip - all confirmed with the cabby.

There can of course be one more slight snag as far as this sort of thing is concerned, and that is does the driver know how to get there, I was assured he did!! Seven times we stopped to ask the way, while even I knew that the town was on the Pan American Highway going towards Trujillo. Yes, I hear you say why didn't I drive then, well because these maniacs make up the Highway Code as they go along, for example, if a left indicator is flashing there is no way the vehicle is turning in that direction. I always find it facinating to watch a city or large town come to life in the morning, and so the traffic jam both ways was a bit of a bonus. Where do all those people come from, what do they do, just like the rest of us trying to make a living. All along the track, especially within the city, there were a forest of stalls being erected, buses jam packed and most risking their life at some stage just to get across the road. It was a full hour getting out of the conurbation, after which the terrain turned to desert which is how it stayed for the rest of the journey. Anyway, I'm here, the hotel in adequate, clean, cheap and only a stones throw from the sea, where I'll be heading as soon as the temperature drops a bit.

Andean & Horned Coot are high on the list of species I'll be seeking tomorrow (don't ask me why, I just fancy them) and already have spoken to someone, with the aid of the Field Guide, who tells me they are available. The lake I had sussed before leaving home, Laguna El Paraiso is, according to Google Earth, just 5 miles south of here, but there is also an archeological site with its own lake where I could get lucky. Either way the taxi fare is said to be less than 50p so I can cope with that as well. So for now, off to get some provisions, suss the laundry and Post Office then back to work, and hopefully finish this later.

The beach, or should I say the cliff top, was no more than 5 minutes walk from the hotel, band an excellent vantage point from which to make a decision which way to go. To the left, there wer hundreds of people and what seemed like as many dogs, so my choice was already clear, but to the right were 'thousands' of Gulls. Not wishing to risk the scree path I took the scenic route down to the sand where straight away I saw Belcher's, Grey, Franklin's and Grey-hooded, but much further on there were 'clouds of them occasionally filling the sky so there had to be a Sabine's Gull or two among them. I was only part way to my target when a group of women and their children came running towards me shouting "no, no don't go, robbers", I didn't need a second telling. Turning about I walked the 2 or 3 miles to the small fishing port where Hudsonian Whimbrel, Snowy Egret, all in the dozens, and a single Spotted Sandpiper were seen. In addition, in the arid area away from the beach I found a new species for the trip, a pretty handsome Killdeer. Making it back to the main road through the docks full of vessels on stocks being repaired, I decided on a Tuk Tuk, and as if to order there was Chiefy with his Mrs and Chico just waiting to take me back. At the end of the ride they didn't want any money (puzzled) but a few bob must have come in handy, while the nipper got a shilling too.

Killdeer - like to find one of these at Lodmoor Daragh?

Killdeer showing 'bib'.

Grey-hooded Gull with still a sign of juvenile plummage.

Sow's Ear into Silk Purse!

What could have been an extremely long day today, turned into something of a prefect 'silk purse'. The rumored bus strike was ON and so my latest, Belgian, acquaintance couldn't get to Arequipa and I couldn't get to Huacho. Nevertheless, the taxi had driven along about 5 miles of sea-shore earlier this morning, and that for one had to be worth investigating. There was time for a hearty breakfast, and to say farewell to Benito & Brenda as they endeavored to get a flight to Tacna, just this side of the Chilean border, before I set off myself.

I was advised that there was a steep cliff road and a very busy motorway between the hotel and the beach so a taxi would be the best plan. All of 4 miles and what wouldn't have been a very pleasant walk was a costly £1.40 so I was glad I took the advice. At the shore the 'surfers' had beaten me to the punch, and were already catching some serious waves, but I was undeterred as I saw a whole squadron of birds at the end of the pier so it was game on. Unfortunately, the pier didn't open until noon, and no amount of charm was going to get me past the henchmen guarding the entrance. Fortunately, some of the afore mentioned were flying this way, and in quick time I had the much wanted Belcher's Gull in my sights, along with Inca Tern, Franklin's Gulls aplenty, Neotropic Cormorant, Black Oystercatcher and a single Grey Gull.

Only a few years ago, the coveted Gull came under the heading of Band-tailed Gull along with its east coast cousin, but after the 'split' of these 2 species they were re-named Belcher's and Olrog's respectively. The latter will be the subject of my desires when I get to Bahia Blanca, Argentina in February. For now I was happy to click away at anything that came within range, and a 2 mile walk along the beach turned up 4 age phases of that Gull. By the time I got back the pier was open, and well worth a walk to the end if only to see the superb restaurant there. I took some time to give it the once over and can report the decor, menu and wine list (had there been another day) would have been worth a small indulgence! In addition, the Inca Terns were favouring the roof areas and made for a brilliant and close sight looking through the windows.

So, all in all another splendid day as on the way to find a taxi back I came upon the beautiful Pacific Dove, almost close enough to touch, and although none of today's encounters were 'lifers' there was certainly some quality there. The Belcher's also wasn't strictly an addition to my Gull photo archive, but the 2 35mm snaps I had taken in 2003 couldn't even be described as 'record shots', in addition to which it was still Band-tailed Gull.

Belcher's Gull adult

Ditto

Ditto

Ditto

Belcher's Gull - head detail.

Belcher's Gull - tail detail.

Belcher's Gull, thought to be 'none-breeding adult?

Ditto, head detail.

Belcher's gull, second calander year.

Ditto

Ditto, head detail.

Belcher's Gull, first winter.

Ditto

Grey Gull, probably 3rd winter

Same bird

Black Oystercatcher - on the rocks below the pier and almost impossible to see let alone photograph. I stepped on an electrical box, to gain vantage, got a rollocking from security so was only able to get this by leaning over the high fence.

Pacific Dove

The other day I took the liberty of presenting what I think is the most astounding Gull in the World. Today, I do similarly for Terns. Is this a stunner or what?

Inca Tern

Ditto

Perched on the rocks, they take a 45 degree angle stance then extend their neck towards the sea. Sighting a fish they launch forward and rarely miss.

Shame about the wing-tip.

There, see what I mean?

Taken through the closed window of the restaurant.

The Restaurant at the end of the Pier in all its glory. Click on photo to enlarge, and note the Terns on the Cupola, there were well over 100 on the various roofs.

The Florentina Lighthouse atop the cliff. Not built to the same design as Pisa, just the cameraman with a list to starboard! Think the palm trees look good too.