La Plata, a Fine City

Given it has a Cathedral, and a very fine one at that, it would be fair to say that La Plata is a city rather than a town. One thing is for sure, I'm glad I took the time out to discover some of its charms as this is the most interesting city, or town, visited so far. From the hotel it was just a few paces to the very elegant looking City Hall designed, like many of the buildings close by, in the French style. In fact several times during the walk I had the impression of being on the Left Bank of the Seine.

City Hall

My hotel in the middle

Directly opposite stands one of the most awe inspiring 'modern' Cathedrals I have ever seen. I had to look back to my architectural mentor, former Brother in Law and great inspiration, Doctor David Warlmsley to remember much of what I was viewing. Of the Perpendicular Gothic style, for a Roman Catholic Church it differs from most I have seen, as being light, bright and airy. Take the Brompton Oritory or Westminster Cathedral for instance, austre, dark and dreary, like somewhere that faith tell you naughty boys might end up! The exterior of red brick and natural stone fair shines in the sunlight, with solid flying buttresses and spires that fair reach
the clouds, as they should. The interior is simarlarly placed with no dark recesses and very few gordy monuments, enough to scare little children to death. Almost completely lime or sand stone, which looks like it comes from the Sceptered Isle (Portland) itself, it is not of the harder Whitbed or Cap Stone but what a Portland mason would refer to as Roach Stone. The layer above the harder stone, Roach was once considered an inferior product, but nowadays is used extensively, with many London buildings being faced with it. This is the stone that contains many shells and small fossils, and once polished also makes for most pleasing hotel desk tops, window ledges etc. While not expecting anything like the magnificent Scissor Arches of Wells Cathedral, the vaulting too hold great charm and above the naive, in natural light defused by stained glass is a beautiful octagonal gallery of some of the saints. The only disappointment came at mid-day, when I returned especially, as the noon bells were a wishy-wash, mish-mash of nothingness, and if the hour was struck it was not discernible. While I'm not looking for everything to be Westminster Chimes, there was nothing resembling "turn back Whittington, Lord Mayor of London".

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, east aspect

South Transept showing Flying Buttresses

Grand Entrance and Rose Window

Arches and Vaulting of the Naive

Saint's Octagon above the Naive

Some of the finer stonework.

Heading towards the Central Park, between avenues of mature London Plain trees growing in wide graveled margins, (on which in France boules would be played) I noticed also that the pavements were all 'tiled'. A brilliant effect but whoever s brain child, never gave any consideration to the existing trees. Over the years the rootstock has undermined every one, the walkways now being not only a serious hazard but a real eye-sore. There were also a number of fine monuments two of which particularly caught my eye, the first to Simon Bolivar, revolutionary and probably singularly the most famous person on the sub-continent. In every country his name resounds in street names, districts and in Ecuador even the currency used to bear his name.The second, a column to an Admiral unknown to me, was just a pleasing tribute with an anchor and cable at the foot, a gathering of people decorating the plinth and the man himself, Almirante Don Guillermo Brown, atop in best blue suit.

Simon Bolivar 1783 - 1830

Almirante Don Guillermo Brown

and Band Stands, don't you just love em? Despite this one being a little neglected, at least it is still standing. A thing of the past I fear, once every town and even village had one, now the only example I know locally is the fine Victorian one in the park in Dorchester. I wonder if many, or any of the Weymouth & Portland readers remember those at the Alexandra Gardens, Weymouth and Easton Square Gardens, Portland? Unfortunately long gone, so see you all at 'Swing in the Park' Dorchester later this year and we can all share the fine sight of one in use!

Arriving at the park, I was surprised to see such a vast tract of woodland and thought of the half dozen or so 'lifers' within. Noticing a man paying particular interest to the Monk Parakeet nests, went and made contact with what I hoped might be a birder. He had a passing interest, but like me was being eaten alive by mosquitoes. They were only in the woodland, but in unbearable numbers so just taking a few shots of Chalk-browed Mockingbird we both beat a hasty retreat.

Chalk-browed Mockingbird, should see plenty of these at the Costanera Sur next week.

Seems to be one of the traits of this species, 'umbrellaing' much like some of the Ibis to see their prey in the shade?

A Pavement Butterfly, in no hurry to move.

Quad-Bike Country with Tears of the Clowns

Will Fay J, Tim Sexton and Donald the Birder please read today's comment Muchas Gracias!

Did a walk of the beach late yesterday afternoon and found one Olrog's Gull, a lot of Kelp Gulls, c2 Elegant Terns and a group of the Tern featured below. I'm sure I can see a very small yellow outer end to the bill, but in the field (on the beach) it looked nothing like Sandwich, suggestions please. In addition to that, I can only report that in my view and from what I have seen over my trip northwards along the Argentine coast that the whole thing is knackered. All the beaches along the full length have been taken over by every type of mechanisation you can think of, but quad-bikes are in epidemic proportions. There is no life on any of the fore-shores, the sand dunes are badly scarred with tyre ruts and in general there will never be (or maybe WANT to be) any recovery. Everything I found was dead, as can be seen, except a few birds and the ever present 'black beetles', even the flies have abandoned ship!

Do you recognise this Tern?

If so let me know please.

Large Jellyfish Sp (dead).

Fish Sp (also dead) When first seen it was upside down, and on seeing the 'barbel' thought it was

a common Atlantic Cod, but this way up I haven't got a clue!

One thing I am looking forward to on my return, is a 'Quiet' nights sleep, lovely as these people are, they easily qualify as some of the NOISIEST on the planet. I got turned in about 21-00 and thought to myself just how tranquil it was. Nodding off with no problem at all, it was 23-18 precisely when I was woken by a rendition of The Theme from Bonanza which was shaking the windows, unless that was Hoss Cartwright. This was followed by another unrecognisable song which got me out of the bunk to investigate. The street was thronged with people as the annual Mardi Gras got underway, with made Weymouth Carnival seem like a very subdued affair. The photographs below are a record of some of the stuff that passed right below my room - Bless 'Em!

One Snow White's enough girls!

Thought all those feathers wa another 'lifer'.

It could be.

and the music blared on.

The massed Tambourines of the Salvation Army Deserters

Everyone having a GREAT TIME!

The kids are alright.

If you can smell something strangely sweet while you read this Post, it's only me.

I opted for a slightly more expensive hotel , for these 4 days, as the springboard for my final journey to the Capital on Friday. Paying on average £20 a night, as last night, which didn't include breakfast but the Internet streached as far as the cabin. Here they want £32 for a room with bags of space, breakfast and as I've just found out dinner as well, but the Internet is confined the lobby, I can live with that. As for the smell, for the first time since leaving home I've dhobied my barnet with shampoo and then applied conditioner, I'll be getting drummed out of the Submariner's Old Comrades at this rate.

On the strength of yesterdays findings it was most definitely time to move on. I'd sussed the bus times to La Plata, and unless I wanted to wait until p.m. it would have to be 08-30 or 08-40, don't ask me why 2 so close together. I was there in plenty of time for the first bus, and just over 4 hours later we arrived at the town named the same as the famous river. However, our arrival was 'only just' as twice on the way there was need to stop for repair, while over the last 12Km we barely made 20 knots. On the face of it this place has lots of promise as the countryside all of the way was pristine and interesting. In the main rough grazing, the fields were once again full of cattle and on 2 occasions were were able to watch the Gauchos working, but unfortunately no boleadors (or boulas as we called them at sea) throwing. At intervals there were 'stock yards, crammed full of cattle probably at their last stomping ground before being hauled off to the shambles? This was also Canal Country, including Shipping Channels leading from the sea plus all manner of waterways and flood plains. Here, were stacks of Coscoroba, another Maguari Stork, small black Crakes in just about every drainage channel and a fine Roseate Spoonbill. Unfortunately, all of this was some way before we got to town. The coast looks, from the map, to be about 20Km away, so tomorrow will be given over to looking around the town, Thursday to the coast, and I was going to leave for Buenos Aries on Friday. That is before I met a whole squadron of (professional) Clowns who are here to pit there wits against other troupes in the annual Clown Festival. It wasn't long before I musseled my way into that, and got an invite to the event at 10-00 on Friday.

Have You Missed Me? - Back On-Line Again

Saturday 13th February 2010

Woke this morning to a very fresh breeze, perhaps close to 25 knots, with much debris falling from the trees but despite my wait, no Monk nests. With only 30Km to travel today, got up at a leisurely pace, had breakfast and still got to Madariaga by 09-30. Most of the terrain over the journey was pampas, open grazing land, small reed beds with a few open pools. The 'trip list' increased by one, Long-winged Harrier, with c2 adults sat on a roadside fence. In addition there were no fewer than c5 Southern Screamers, when considering I have only seen c2 prior to this trip, now the total is c9. The expression 'one horse town' must have been coined when someone visited Madariaga, but the advantage is everything is close to hand, plus it is the springboard for The Lakes. Raul, at the R&C Hosteria, soon had me fixed up with a room at £15 a night, got me some info on Laguna La Salada Grande and estimated the return taxi fare would be about the same price as the room. At about 30Km from here, and no buses, I was happy with that so approached an independent cabby outside of the bus station. He was making a bit of a meal of the language barrier, but as I made to walk away came up with a 70 pesos each way fare. I attempted to knock him down but he seemed reluctant either to reduce the fare, or for that matter want the job, I could only assume because it is Sunday. He kindly directed me to the taxi office where there were a couple of geezers about my age, and we hit it off immediately, I didn't even bother to barter the 90 pesos round trip, so all is (should be) fixed for manana! I know nothing about this area, only that it looks wild on Google Earth and Raul assures me there are plenty of Aves.

Victuals were next on the agenda, but not before giving the local park a good grilling. You know, that 30 seconds fair flew in, so headed for a most well appointed fruit store and loaded up. So, mid-day and what do you do next? Certainly not sit around on your ass' you come up with something! Catching the Pinamar bus back and getting off half way seemed like an excellent idea, and with prospect of photographing both the Screamers and the Harriers I bought a ticket. Now, it seems no matter how far you are going on a local bus, it is impossible to spend more than a quid, and as so far the 'Bus Pass' hasn't worked, I handed over the 60p to get back. There was no chance I could remember where these birds where, so decided to look for a likely area and, as this seems to be a stop on request, just asked the driver to stop. That worked perfectly, now which direction to walk? On the outward journey, this had seemed like a country road, but now in the middle of the day, and packed with traffic, it made Silverstone look like a wheelchair rally, everyone gunning it! The wind had also freshened to a good 30 knots, so considered walking with it the best option, also putting the sun behind me. There was some chatter along the way of small passerines, but among the swaying reed and stands of maram, there was little, if any, chance of seeing these. There was a period of over 30 minutes when, except for Pigeons, no birds were seen at all. c2 Barn Swallows appeared out of nowhere, to relieve the situation, and a distant 'Harrier' (thought to be Cinnereous on short wing length alone, and there are only 2) also helped. By now only 3 things were getting on my tits, the heat, the wind, road noise and the lack of birds, it's the weekend so you get one moan free, so decided to call it a day. It was some way to the next bus stop, but as you can see I made it! During the 15 'click' ride back I saw c3 S Screamers, c2 in a pool so close to the road even I could have got a photie and c2 each of the Harriers. How does it go, "ticking away the moments that make up a dull etc etc".

And finally today, before I have a banana and get my head down, I found a Web Site in English to read up on Olrog's Gull and it makes disturbing reading. Opinions vary a little with one authority stating 7,000 and another 4,000 being the number of birds in existence. They are known to breed at just 5 sites on the Bahia Blanca River estuary and human disturbance is pushing them back all the time. As far as Gulls in general go, they are extremely selective eaters and will only consider 3 species of Crab as food. They are not an Argentine endemic as some frequent the shores and waters of Uruguay in the southern winter, and there has only been a single inland record. How does that Genesis track go, "too big to fly, Dodo ugly so Dodo must die"?


Sunday 14th February 2010

Laguna Salada Grande, Madariaga, Argentina

The analogy of a pint of Strongbow after walking across the Gobi Desert sprang to mind as we reached the gates of Laguna Salada Grande, refreshing after too long an absence of birds in good numbers. That was the story here, as before we even got to the lake 2 'lifers', Speckled Crake and White-winged Black Tyrant were in the log, in addition to which Coscoroba (Swan) and Maguari Stork were also additions to the Trip List. The taxi arrived before I did, a little early, for a prompt start. The first 7 or 8Km was on the familiar road from yesterday, and I started getting the dreaded feeling that was where we were going to end up. Not so, as we took a left fork off of the duel-carriageway and onto a dirt road leading through marsh and farm land. Daylight was already with us, which is a good job, otherwise we would not have been able to identify the Crake which seemed to be feeding/gritting in the middle of the road. At our destination it was obvious the driver and warden were good mates, and they made it clear that should I want anything, all I needed to do was ask!

Rufous-bellied Thrush, thought I'd indulge myself with a couple of photos of this fine looking bird

Don't you just love the 'Thrushes' Dave? Rig mate, and fellow 'birder' Dave Penney gave me World Thrushes for my 60th, what a volume!

The lawn outside of the boat-shed was literally covered with Rufous-bellied Thrushes, plus a sprinkling of Rufous Hornero and Great Kiskadee while out on the huge lake there were at least 2 species of Grebe, Pied-billed for certain. In the far distance a group of Coscoroba's were feeding, and as it put the sun behind me what better way to set off than in their direction? It was a matter of minutes before the familiar Great Pampa-Finch, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet and Black-and-Rufous Warbling-Finch were recognised and just a little further on, in knee deep water, a pair of Southern Screamers. With camera clicking away in multi-fast mode I had cracked the desire of the day, so could put the toys back in the pram, take an anti-excitement pill and get on with the rest of it. Capped Heron, was about the only other waterbird but others all in good numbers included Chilean and White-rumped Swallow, Shiny Cowbird, Saffron Finch, Chimango Caracara, Grassland Yellowfinch and Grass Wren. That's when the Field Flicker appeared in company with c2 other Woodpeckers both Green-barred, a fine looking thing. Another walk along the reed-bed produced the Striped-crowned Spinetail, only identified with the aid of photographs, and a fine, but distant, Red-crested Cardinal, I'd put money on it that we are going to see much closer ones later in the trip. There were also 'thousands' of the smallest Damselflies I have ever seen, I would guess about 2/3rds the size of say Blue-tailed, and whether they were male and female or 2 different species one was green and the other ocher yellow, both with black stripes.

Field Flicker front

and back

I'd now been in the area of the lake for 4 hours, so decided to try a different area making my way back along the dirt road. On the way out there was plenty of action and there was still much to be seen. The Harrier quartering the reeds a good way ahead was thought to be Long-winged as I'm sure I could see red legs, but it went to ground. A good while later what I can only assume was the same bird, took off and allowed for a few decent flight shots. No sooner had that happened than the same went for a Southern Screamer in a roadside mud wallow, but for me the best was still to come.

Long-winged Harrier

probably an immature bird.

At odd times during this trip I have ventured my opinion on the most beautiful Gull and Tern, and today I fulfilled another little 'birding' dream, I saw the species I consider to have the best name. A rather nondescript bird, a little Pipit like, was perched on a fence post so obviously I fired off a few shots and it remained there while I checked the Field Guide. Despite no showing too much of the distinctive black dots on the side of the throat, it showed all the other characteristics of a Firewood-Gatherer - what a name, it just does it for me!

May not rate very highly in the Beauty Stakes, but what a name,

FIREWOOD-GATHERER

It had been a fantastic morning and the Amigo el Taxi was right on time again for the pick-up at noon. On arrival back in town there was no hassle about the agreed price, which there so often is and can take the gilt off the gingerbread a bit. Dropped outside the hotel I could smell meat being cooked and a short investigation reveled the BBQ shop at the end of the street, closed yesterday, was now in full swing. A chance to try the first Argentinian beef this trip I opted for the rib, with papa frits and a bit of banter with the chef. This place just had a huge charcoal griddle and a serving counter, as the food was all take away. The orders were coming in thick and fast, so I just indicated which piece of beef I wanted and he did the business. I had thought of a sausage as well, but decided against only to find he'd thrown a 'banger' in buck shee, so I was well satisfied. Arriving at the cabin for the feast I noted a Hummingbird on the flowers outside, but with hands full was in no position to do anything about it. Luckily it came back 4 times to be identified as White-throated Hummingbird another 'lifer'. I may just stay on another day here?

White-throated Hummingbird

Photos so poor, thought you deserved another one!

Black-and-Rufous Warbling-Finch

Great Pampa-Finch

Red-crested Cardinal, hope to get some better views at the Costanera Sur next week.

Shiny Cowbird (juvenile) with Cleat, thought it was about time we had something 'nautical'.

Snake Sp there have been all too few this trip.

Southern Beardless Tyrannulet

Southern Crested Caracara

Southern Lapwing

Vermilion Flycatcher (molting adult male, or more likely juvenile male)

and as far as I'm concerned 'best till last'.

Southern Screamer (presumed male and female). The book describes voice as often 'duets', one

calls aha, with the mate responding with a soprano oglik, this is what I got when getting too close

Lucky to see several on the wing, when they became more vocal still.

Today's Update

COSCOROBA
MAGUARI STORK
SPECKLED CRAKE*
BLACK-AND-RUFOUS WARBLING-FINCH
GREAT PAMPA-FINCH
WHITE-RUMPED SWALLOW
WHITE-WINGED BLACK TYRANT*
YELLOW-BROWED TYRANT*
RED-CRESTED CARDINAL
WHITE-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD*
STRIPED-CROWNED SPINETAIL*
FIREWOOD-GATHERER*
FIELD FLICKER

Trip Ticks - 886
World Lifers - 569

and today?

Well it started with some indecision, whether to stay another day but with no Internet I decided to move on. Only 80Km north lies the town of San Clemente and with no knowledge of what I might find I have stopped here for at least one night. Later I'm going to suss out the beach for Gulls, and already have met someone who tells me there are birds to be seen here. So, if I am here tomorrow then you'll be hearing from me, otherwise who Knows?

Eureka - Or Have I?

There's a lot of German influence about Pinamar, for instance I am staying at the Berlin Hotel, but for what it is, a seaside resort, its quite nice! I don't know where the cartographers get the 'A' at the end of the name, but there is no reference to it here. There are lots of little bars, restaurants and clubs, some made to look Alpine, while just across the road there is the best Deli I've ever been in. The landlady, who's mother (in attendance) was born in Buenos Aires which must have been close to the outbreak of WWII, has been helpfulness itself and today suggested I go to Carilo where, she said, there is less human activity and more wild beaches. Just 12Km south, the local bus got me there for 9 'o' clock and while there was plenty of Grockle paraphernalia to be seen, so far there were few people about. From the bus to La Playa (The Sea - look almost fluent) was a walk of about one kilometer, between some of the nicest houses I have ever seen. Like yesterday built in the heart of a Pine/Eucalyptus forest, the predominant feature were the Monk Parakeets. Not 'hundreds, but 'thousands' with their huge, communal nests built in at least 50% of the trees. Again my landlady had a comment about this, saying they used to be content with the Pines but in recent years have favoured the Eucalyptus. She chuckled when she told me that many of the nests become too heavy for the trees, and also in high winds they come crashing to the ground. The mirth was raised by tales of a number of human near misses.

Already the deckchairs were being laid out and beach huts opening, but as I hit the waterline I was just in time to see a Pomarine Skua relieve a Gull-billed Tern of its breakfast, so considered this a good omen for the rest of the day. Not a lot of activity to seaward, but the unexpected appearance of a Fork-tailed Flycatcher, also at the waterline, gave a little entertainment. A little further on Gulls were starting to appear, but only Grey-hooded, and so were the humans. A real bonus came with a small party of Snowy-crowned Tern preening close to the sand dunes, but that was short lived with the arrival of 63 quad-bikes. Of course I counted them, there was nothing else to do! After walking about 6 clicks, the first Black-backed Gull turned up. OK it was flying and it was high but it was an adult and definitely had a 'banded tail', all that was needed now was for it to settle. It didn't, and nor did the c4 that followed it, but even futher ahead there were large Gulls on the beach. This is when the frustration set in. Every time I close almost to camera distance there was a disturbance, I'd been constantly looking for humans and dogs and there seemed to be none about. First it was a woman jogger, then another woman decided to let her pets loose at the crucial moment, and then a wayward quad. Was I ever going to get my shot. Each time of course it sent the birds further along the beach, and at what turned out to be the final effort I politely asked a gentleman walker if he could divert his track and give me a chance. Despite the language barrier he knew just what I was up to and allowed me to produce the 'limited' photographs below.

For those of you who are interested (pay attention Julie & Lisa this means you) an update on my little quirk of wanting to see all the Gull species in the world. None have been added this trip, with just 3 outstanding being Relict Gull (China, Mongolia, Korea), Yellow-footed Gull (Baja California) and Red-legged Kittiwake (Pribilof Islands, Bearing Sea), little job for when I have a week-end to spare. However, having recouped Swallow-tailed, Lava, Grey and Grey-hooded Gulls, to the lens, since having my back-pack (including films) nicked in Bolivia, I now believe there is a real chance of photographing them all as well. Apart from the 3 already mentioned, 3 of the remaining 4, Sabine's, Ivory and Ross's Gulls could be photographed in the UK. That just leaves Heerman's.

Should be moving on tomorrow, but not sure where as yet. The Lake Lands sound attractive but seem a bit awkward to get to. So, will seek some more advice in the morning and let you know.

POMARINE SKUA
SNOWY-CAPPED TERN
OLROG'S GULL

Trip Ticks - 872
World Lifers - 563
Endemics - 57

PS - Welcome aboard as 'Followers' Ginge and Val, my shipmate from HMS Undaunted days (1967) and his lovely lady. There is certainly going to be a visitor to Northmoor Park before the years out, so lock up your daughters. Great to hear from you both. Yours aye etc.

Just a small one of many Monk Parakeet nest.

One bird I didn't expect to find on the beach,

this Fork-tailed Flycatcher was having a Hay Day with these Beetles. What you might call Rain

or Bloody-nose Beetles were everywhere below the high-water mark, don't know what they do when the tide comes in?

and this I feel sure is

Olrog's Gull. Compared, at the time and with photographs of juvenile Kelp Gulls it looks just right

A good deal smaller, it has that petite look Lesser Black-backed has against Great Black-back and lacks the 'brutish' look of Kelp.

It also has the long, narrow bill with full sub-terminal band, but with lack of literature I remain open to correction.

A nifty group of Snowy-crowned Terns had the odd

Yellow-billed Tern among them, (and Gull-billed which I didn't get at)

but all were regularly being put to flight

by these! Is there any hope or the Planet?

And maybe someone would like to try identifying this, taken a few days ago a little further down the coast.

I only have a few line drawings in this book which soon merge into a solid haze.