Friday, 7 May 2010

Belgrade to Sarijavo, Bosnia

It took a full hour yesterday afternoon to walk to the Eastrn Railway Station, but once there it was a simple task to get a ticket for the overnight train Prague to Belgrade, Serbia. Getting a meal was equally simple, but the choice was almost Hobson's with just Burger King on one corner and McDonald's on the other. Selection was made simple by the fact that the latter was 50 feet closer, but served as a timely reminder as to why I don't frequent these places. The food was shite (but filled a hole), while the obvious regualar 'grazers' at this establishment were living proof that they did put Humpty back together again!

Having opted for the 15 Euro fare (370 miles x 8 hours) I was only afforded a seat rather that a sleeper, but up to seconds before departurnde it seemed I had secured a compatment to myself. That's when Milan Karobic and his mate Nenad Dugic burst in announcing, "we only chose these seats because you looked interesting". It was one of those moments you wished you'd put a bag over your head, but once we had settled down to some conversation it became clear that they too were interesting. For 20'somethings they were extremely well travelled, and when the chat got round to contemporary music they sure as hell knew their stuff. There was never going to be any chance of serious sleep until we had cleared both sides of the Hungarian/Serbian border by which time we had covered most places between Mongolia and the Grand Canyon, plus Led Zeppelin to The Clash. In addition, during their visit to Amsterdam they had bought endless amounts of cakes, biscuits, waffles etc so we were able to share a fine picnic.

Sleep comes like a drug, in God's country (U2) so I woke just 15 minutes from Belgrade surprisingly refreshed. They on the other hand seemed a bit phased and announced they would be heading home for more sleep. However, that was not before they put me right about visiting the city. I hope they, and the people of Serbia will forgive me for saying that the tour was short lived, but it was interesting walking the banks of the River Sava for an hour or so. You'll note I have spared the reaer yet another bridge photograph!

By noon it was time to move on again, and once again most conveniently there was a bus about to leave for Sarejavo, Bosnia. Once again there was plenty of space on the bus to start with, so was able to concentrate on the lap top until the battery died on me. At the first stop I grabbed an espresso and wandered around outside, to find a man with a huge BBQ spit-roasting a whole sheep, I only wish there was time to have taken him up on it.

After about 2 hours we reached the border town of Zvornik, nestling on the Lake of Drina, where on both sides the officials were very friendly and relaxed and soon had us on our way. Passing the first 2 of a 6 tunnel complex we could already see the lower slopes of The Bakans appearing, with neat, tiny villages and farms it was difficult to imagine that only a short few years ago the region was 'war-torn'. We had also picked up some new passengers, my new travelling companions being Tamara and Marina, both in their late teens and at university. With good English, they were able to fill in all the detail I would otherwise have missed.

As for birds, they were always goin to take a back seat on this trip, but I did add Coal Tit and a late Fieldfare to the 'trip list', while a distant Eagle Sp passed unidentified.

There was a advert hording in the city that caught my eye. I have no idea what for but the caption read:- 'A gentleman is simply a patient wolf'.
This photo, best known to itself, wouldn´t upload yesterday. Me and my Dad in Prague.

Milan Karobic
Nenad Dugic

Me Waffling again

The three of us

Surrounding hills of Sarijavo

The Art Acadamy

One of manz Moscs

War damage still visible on the Library

General cirty scene

12th centurz church

Dowbtown Sarijavo
The new Sarijavo growing


More war damage


More surrounding hills

It has been hell og a game getting this post off, as Ive had to use a local computer. Press S and zou get a hzphen etc, etc please excuse the faults.

Thursday, 6 May 2010

Buda -Pest and the Blue Danube

I'd like to start today's post by welcoming all new readers from the Eastern Countries of Europe, which I have passed through this trip, who seem to have swollen in numbers overnight. I have only given the Blog Link to very few of you, but from the Statistic Counter it looks like you have been passing it on. Thank you very much for that, the more readers the better as far as I'm concerned and it's pleasing to note that there are readers in every country I have covered on this tour. Also a message to the young Hungarian couple who helped me at the Bratislava Bus Station,it was rather a rapid departure for me, but I hope you managed to scribble the address down?

Front of the Basilica.

and the back.

They knew I was coming and named a street in my honour! That's how they spell Bagsy in Hungary.

The day started with a real bang as a clap of thunder at 04-16 must have woken everyone in the hotel. By the sound of the torrential rain it could easily have prevented my sight-seeing but by the time breakfast was over so was the rain. However, first things first, I had to make arrangements to move on later in the day and as the string pull on the zip of my money belt had already snapped (catastrophe) I knew it was going to be 'one of those days'. The Coach Station, just ten minutes away, couldn't accommodate me as they only have a service during the summer months, so the train was the only other option. Deciding on the direct 8 stops on the Metro to one of 3 Budapest railway stations, I was first faced with having to obtain some Forintis (Hungarian currency) so had to search out a Cambio before I could go anywhere. It was unfortunately not 'the' station from which trains run to Belgrade, but got all the help I needed to further my plans later.

Not far from the city center, I started my 'self propelled' tour at the Basilica before heading towards a walk along the banks of the Danube. As I was already in Pest, the city on the north bank, I was soon in sight of Buda a short walk away across any of a series of bridges. I simply love bridges in all their forms, so opted for the road/pedestrian one that reminded me of Brooklyn Bridge in New York. With not too many people and the sun now shining it made for a pleasant stroll, except on the down side, for the number of smokers, especially young women. It is impossible to dodge them, with just about every tenth breath being smoke filled.

Continuing the walk into the old town of Buda from where excellent views were afforded of the Hungarian Parliament building across the river opposite. My return to the Pest side coincided in a beer bar which wasn't allowed to sell beer until 15-00,, it was only 1pm. Full of smoke, as they all are, I managed a quick fresh lime juice and soda before heading back to the hotel, now JUST a 3 mile walk away. A quick look in the local market was interesting, especially the wine shops, but was surprised not to see any Tokaji, a favourite tipple of mine especially with a good pudding. As mentioned before my intension is to head for Serbia next and I'm planning to get the overnight train - so here's hoping!

Three views of the Brooklyn Bridge lookalike.



The Danube River looking west.

The Danube River looking east.

This is the Hung'arian Parliament, the people of Great Britain may know what that feels like tomorrow?

Parliament and Tourist Boat.

Maybe a Bridge too far?

A fine selection of sausages in the local market.

and one for Mark and Helen Forster, looks like ya man is playing Budapest too in July. Hope you both enjoy the gig. It was interesting to see that John Mayall & the Bluesbreakers are also playing here in June, at the ripe age of 77, not bad for a youngster!

A Bohemian Rhapsody

A little forward planning should have seen me on the 09-30 Vienna, Meidling to Praha (Prague), Czech Republic, but with a quick breakfast and some slick assistance at the station I caught the 08-25. Leaving right on time, it was a little frustrating to find a stop of a full 20 minutes less than a mile down the line. However, interest was maintained with the stop being adjacent to an inner-city motorway construction site with lorries like a swarm of bees, coming and going, and all manner of heavy plant in operation. Yawn!
Ninety minutes later we arrived at the border town of Breclav where the Austrian train crew were relieved by the Czech team, but not before Jackdaw, Mute Swan, Turtle Dove and Cormorant were added to the 'trip list'. I'd forgotten to mention the family of Peregrines in the cathedral yesterday every cathedral should have one), while also before the border with the train at slow speed, a fine adult male Marsh Harrier was seen quartering the track side.

It was now time to start yet another 'country list', and to recap on the past couple of days. Croatia = 20 species, Slavenia = also 20 and Austria trailing on 16. At the time of leaving Austria the 'trip list stood at 36.

As though flicking a switch the building become far more austere, including huge, dark apartment blocks and villages that had seen better days, with barely a structure having escaped the grafitti vandals aerosol - Rael imperial Aerosol Kid, exits into daylight his spray-gun hid.

Prague Railway Station

The Czech National Museum

The view from Saint Wenceslas Statue looking north.

Saint Wenceslas Square, Prague
A long way to come to see a bloke on a horse!

The view from the statue at night

Tuesday, 4 May 2010

This Means Nothing to Me, Oh Vienna - Ultravox

Immersed in the Blog, I almost missed the 13-00 train from Zagreb to Ljubljana capital of Slovenia, where the countryside continued pristine throughout. This time almost all of the journey was through a shallow tree lined gorge with a fairly major river running alongside. Small Hamlets were dotted along each bank and with farming seeming the most prominent way of life, things looked idyllic.

The train now standing at platform 1 is the 13-00 to Ljubljana.

Slightly late, the train duly arrived at the small city where I had time to take a quick look around. That was all that was needed, as Ljubljana is tiny to say the least, so with little to see it was easily covered withing the hour. Returning to the railway station, I was lucky to find a train heading for Vienna in just15 minutes time. Not wishing to delay matters any further I hopped aboard and that is where I am now. The only new birds added to the trip list were Pheasant, Magpie, Stock Dove, Mallard, Grey Wagtail and Common Kestrel.

A couple of shots from the train window on the way to Vienna yesterday.

Not ideal but tells the story.

A final shot from yesterday as we reached the Austrian lowlands.

Vienna, Austria

After a 6 hour rail journey, I finally arrived in Vienna, Austria, or to be more accurate on the outskirts. It was an interesting trip once again, through lush montain habitat, including the Kara Wanken Mountains along the Austrian border, while at every station stop it was good to note the 'Wheel Tapper' is still alive and well. Unfortunately, nearly all the way here the rain didn't stop, nor did that change at our destination making hotel finding a little more difficult. The 'cheap' one that was recommended by a fellow traveller turned out to be 120 Euros which I hoped was just this establishment and not an indicator of price generally.

Across the road I sought temporary refuge in a garage coffee bar where I met Tony & Christine from Russia, Andy from Austria and the most helpful of the 4 of them, who's name I don't remember, from Turkmenistan. They seemed alright, and while I'm not given to taking too many risks, I decided things would be OK and accepted the lift they offered to a cheap hotel. It was in fact a Hostel, and not particularly salubrious at that, but as luck would have it there was 'no room at the inn'. However, the people did help by saying there was a Pension within walking distance, which on the face of it looked a bit grotty. Checking, what was an apartment, I was pleasantly surprised especially with the price tag of E35. Bidding farewell and thanking my new found friends, it was always too late to be thinking about Blogs and with no Internet on site I left
yesterday's post until this morning.

Breakfast was a sparse affair with just 2 bread rolls butter and jam plus a cup of coffee, but all I needed at that time of the morning. The local Internet Cafe couldn't facilitate (I need to use my lap-top to down load photos) but the hotel next door did the trick.

Immediately after that I got the Metro into the city and started my sightseeing tour with a 'day ticket' on the usual 'City Tour Bus'. That got off to a smashing start as the coach in front backed up, but despite directions, crashed into our bus! The city of Vienna is probably the most cultural place I have ever been with a choice of just about anything from music to architecture, theater, opera, art,history before you even get on to the good stuff. Pressing time didn't allow for one of the many Mozart (or the Strauss', Beethoven, Wagner et al) concerts advertised or a look at The Spanish Riding School of Vienna with their fabulous Lipizzaner Horses. In addition a look around the National Art Gallery would have been an eye opener, said to be crammed full of early Klimt, Egon Schiele (although sometimes a little too pornographic for me) and even an Andy Warhol exhibition beingstaged at the moment. It was also interesting to note that Jethro Tull, Supertramp and Faith No More are also playing in the city this week, but there was no mention of the world famous Bot's Choir which I once saw at the Albert Hall, London.

In addition to all of this there was also the parks and gardens, which are said to cover over half of the city area, plus restaurants and cafes which the city boasts having more per capita than any other in the world. I did try both the schnitzel and strudel, but unfortunately no room for the array of cakes, pastries and wonderful coffee.


St Stephan's Cathedral, the central point of Vienna.

Some detail of the Cathedral

Reminded me of the immortal line uttered by the wonderful Maureen Lipman in the 5th best movie ever made 'Educating Rita, wouldn't you just die without Mahler?"

The mighty Danube

An impressive church on the banks of the river, but can't remember name.

The Opera House, oh for an evening there!

One of the many City parks, all very spring like.

Statue commemorating the immortal Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

The City Hall from a distance.

Maria Theresa

The National Art Gallery

directly opposite and twinning, The Natural History Museum.

Entrance to the Palace of Heroes.

The Palace

Famous Austrian General but name forgotten.

These horses and coaches are an integral part of city life.

Some architectural detail.

some more,
and more.
Roman Remains,
discovered and unearthed in the early 90's.

Back of the Palace of Heroes.

A typical Viennese street, can you see the litter?

another church with no name.

Preparing City Hall for the Spring Recitals.

Plaque above the house of WA Mozart

Just one of his many homes in Vienna

Time is of the essence so please forgive any mistake. Hope to be able to get 'on line' again tomorrow as the trip continues.

PS
Paul Harris says yesterday's insect may be a Carpenter Bee!