Friday, 22 October 2010

Day 2 Tana to Antsirabe

Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world, twice the size of Great Britain and 50% bigger than France, and lies in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Mozambique. There are several large islands and hundreds of inlets, with the Hauts Plateaux forming the central highlands which occupy more than half of the island while dividing it both climatically and scenically. The narrow strip of lowland on the east coast is largely covered by pockets of dense rainforest ,whilst the west, once dry deciduous forest, is now mainly Savannah. The south western and southern extremes are semi-desert with large cactus like plants known as the 'spiny desert'. The capital Antananarivo is high up on the plateaux.

Despite the late arrival, there were 3 of us out birding at first light (05-30) but despite our efforts no new birds were added to the list. After a particularly nice breakfast we boarded our mini-bus to begin the 200 mile drive south west, punctuated by several 'birding stops, to the town of Antsirabe . The name literally means 'the place of much salt' and there are many theories as to how in gained this name. High on the list of favourites is the legend that many years ago the townsfolk woke to see the ground covered in what they thought was salt. It was of course frost but the stuck for this rural town which lies at an altitude the same as Ben Nevis in Scotland.

Before leaving a slightly better photograph was taken of a Madagascar Mannikin,

while this stunning blue Butterfly obliged

close to a blooming Jacaranda Tree.

Soon after leaving we were rewarded with the first new bird of the day, the 'endemic' Madagascar Black Swift just before we reached the US Embassy itself on the border of the small village of


From there the terrain turned even more rural with

rice paddies everywhere

and dozens of 'brick kilns'. Made in the time honoured fashion, the clay is dug from worn out rice beds but hand providing an ideal building material for homes.

One or two of the population were even trying their hand at a spot of fishing.

Out first stop was the Tsimbazaza Zoological Park where many of the endemic birds and mammals are caged, where once Aye Aye could be seen but not any longer? Apart from various Egrets

White-faced Whistling Ducks were first to be seen, while

white & black morph Dimorphic Egrets were seen

Unfortunately, the back ones were not as obliging as the whites.

The were about 10 species of Butterfly but all very flighty, this one being the only one to succumb.

A Black Egret was found feeding along the margins

giving a fine demonstration of its fishing technique

'umbrellaing the light from the surface of the water cutting down glare.

There were also many dozens of Black-crowned Night-Herons with this juvenile perfectly placed, but all the adults kept their distance.

We also recorded 2 Madagascar Malachite Kingfisher, also endemic

while Common Squacco Heron were also numerous.

An hour after departing the park we stopped to view the President's Palace

and take in a couple of trinket stalls. Here a couple of us were far more interested watching 3 Brown-throated Martin hawking insects right above our heads.

A few school children passed our mini-bus on their way home from school and there was also

time to capture part of this fertile valley.

At almost the highest point this stunning Long-billed Green Sunbird captured our attention, yet another endemic.

The blossom on a nearby tree was worthy of a shot, while these Orchids are dedicated to Bowie & Sheila Edwards.


One final stop to search a river bank before reaching our destination rewarded us with a group of 'calling; Common Quail plus another endemic and by definition 'lifer', as none of us have been
here before, a number of Madagascar Bush Lark. Other birds added to the list today include:- Great Egret, Madagascar Hoopoe, Bee-eater & Little Grebe, Red-billed Teal, Common Sandpiper, Pied Crow, Purple Heron and Hammercop.

It was also interesting to watch these children helping with the crop and carrying it across the river.

Tomorrow we head even further south west and almost to the coast to spend 3 days at the Ranomafana National Park, where I am advised Internet access is not available. It is my intention to keep the diary and photographs up to date and post them at the next opportunity, so please do not give up hope!

Trip Ticks - 26 World Lifers - 12

Thursday, 21 October 2010

Welcome to Madagascar

The immediate good news is that while we only got to the first hotel at 02-30 (BST +2) Internet access was immediately available. This in turn brings up country number 103 as I have had to log on myself.

There were no snags or delays with Tuesday's flight, but finding the Transit Bus for the Comfort Hotel was a little less pleasurable, even the locals were having difficulty. One Frenchman also staying there even phoned the hotel, but unbeknown to them? bus stops and schedules had been altered, but in the end 4 of us shared a taxi. Again this morning at Charles de Gaulle things went swimmingly, the Parisian strikes seemingly not effecting the airport. By take off time 10-35 all passengers were embarked but still the manifest was absent and there was no sign of the doors being shut. After an hour of silence the pilot then announced that the 'tug' drivers were going on strike and so there would be no way of reversing the plane onto the tarmac. After a short time he came back to inform us that it looked like this was only going to be a 'token' protest and we were slotted for take off some time after 14-00. Then came the best news, that they had returned (what was all that about) and we finally left the ground at 12-30 just 2 hours late. In made up one hour en-route and so all in all our holiday is underway. Obviously no time for 'birding' now but I am informed daylight starts at about 05-00 and I'll be there to meet it. Predicted first species, either Common Myna 0r one of Alpine or Little Swift. Later today we drive for about 2 hours to Antsirabe during which time the wildlife watching will start in earnest and hope to be able to continue this post from the hotel there. Meanwhile Good night!

Here is the 05-30 to 07-30 update:-

The Welcoming Committee, and most welcoming they were!

Madagascar Wagtail,

the first bird heard and seen.

Common Myna and as the name suggests very common.

Madagascar White-eye in poor light.

Madagascar Red Fody (pronounced foody so I'm told)

in eclipse at this time of year

so with varying amounts of red plumage.

Madagascar Mannikin, plentiful but a little flighty.

In addition Feral Pigeon (if you count those sort of things Daragh), Cattle Egret and House Sparrow have been seen with the

Trip Total - 8 World Lifers - 4

Wednesday, 20 October 2010

Normal Service Will Be Resumed

Should be in flight all day today, arriving Madagascar under the cover of dark so not much in the way of a post. It is hoped that tomorrow will see the start of some good stuff?

DON'T GO AWAY!


Tuesday, 19 October 2010

Teal of the World

Yesterday was the birthday of my dear next door neighbour Joy, so in the evening we were all round her house for a cider & sandwich party. Guests of honour were our German friends Norbert and Marion who seem to be facinated by some of the goings on here inWeymouth. As usual the whole thing ended in a long sing song, mostly 60's & 70's, and a good time was had by all.

Not quite bright eyed and bushy tailed this morning all I had to do was sit on the coach to Heathrow Airport, so managed a bit of extra shut eye before flogging up on some of the creatures we may encounter in Madagascar. With some concern reguarding the protests in France, I was pleased to see that the flight toParis was both on schedule and on time, with the only reportable action being the Chilean Presedents flight taking off right outside of terminal 4, after his short visit to England.

The Chilean Presidential plane.

Our flight from Charles de Gaulle airport is at 10-35 local time tomorrow and we should arrive at the Madagascan capital Antananarivo at 21-00 also local. In the meantime I hope the readership will be content with a few more images from the archive, this time featuring those dinky little ducks the Teal.

Blue-winged Teal - Crooked Tree, Belize

Cape Teal - Strandfontain, South Africa

Chestnut Teal - NSW, Australia

Cinnamon Teal - Beaver Creek, Yukon

Green-winged Teal - Cape May, New Jersey, USA

Grey Teal - Alice Spring, Australia

Puna Teal - Alto Plano, Peru

Red-billed Teal - Maseru, Lesotho

Speckled Teal - Falkland Islands

PS

The 'spell check' has unfortunately crapped out so the spelling is goin to be worse than usual, if that is possible

Blame It On Costa Rica

On the day I leave for Madagascar, two things are on my mind. Firstly, will we ever make it with the situation as it is in France, as we fly to Tana, Madagascar via Paris where it now appears the situation, especially fuel, is becoming critical. Anyway, that's in the lap of the gods, or the French and unless I hear otherwise it's the 09-00 National Express to Heathrow.

Secondly, with the prospect of so much unique wildlife, and by definition photographs, I think back to when this digital business caught my imagination. Billy Burke and I were backpacking from Mexico City to Panama City, meeting up with Jim the Medic in Chetumul, Yucatan. Both were taking photos on the way, but after Jim had departed in Costa Rica Billy and I continued to the Monte Verdi rain forests. There we found a young bird guide who, after getting a severe telling off for being alcohol induced late, showed us the techniques of digi-scoping (taking photographs through a telescope). Below are some of the images we captured, and wap that was me hooked.

Bare-shinned Screech-Owl

Black-faced Solitaire (nicknamed the 'garden gate bird' in Costa Rica as it has a call like a wrought iron gate swinging in the wind).

Purple-throated Mountain Gem

Resplendent Quetzel

Scarlet Macaw

Three-wattled Bellbird

Coati

and finally, country number 102 join our ranks in the guise of Cameroon. My friend John Down has a daughter who is working in research out there and has joined our readership. Thank you for that Amy and hope both your trip is progressing well and that you might pass on the link to those you know in that and any other country.