Good Morning Vietnam - Goodbye Bagsy

Today saw the last day of the 'Planned Passage' and the first of the just taking direction as it comes. I had a flight booked from Manila, taking me as far as Hanoi, Vietnam (via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) and had also consulted the Foreign & Commonwealth Office about entry but had to have a Plan B ready. A little ambiguous as to whether a visa could be obtained 'on the ground' in Vietnam I was always prepared to be 'bumped' should that situation arise. It did, and I was, and I'm now in Malaysia!

Always considered a part of this trip, the plan would have been to enter Malaysia from the north but this change will be of no concern and life goes on. There can be few serious 'birders' in the world who have not heard of, or been to, Fraser's Hill and being only 4 hours or so from this Avian Mecca the choice was obvious.

Time for a coffee and lunch, once again the Tourist Information sorted out all my travel detail and very soon I was on the easy to understand under/over-ground to Rada.

I did rater like the idea of a 'Ladies Only Coach'.

Having visited this capital city before and the Petronas Towers there was no need to linger, but did catch a sight of the landmark (between the tall buildings foreground) in the distance.

A change of train about half way produced an hour delay, but struck up conversation with a very nice gentleman who was able to give me further useful information. It would have been nice to report the ASIAN GLOSSY STARLING above as the first bird on Malay soil, but yes, you've guest it that pesky TREE SPARROW was in first.

Another 'Lifer' as we crossed the line to exit the station, a Television in the lift, unfortunately no settee and chairs so a quick move on. Knowing little about my destination, I was soon to learn that while all facilities are in place there it is what would be described as Very Remote. No public transport, so first an £18.00 taxi ride to the resort 45Km away and worth every penny.

At 4,200 feet above sea level, the Resort is modern, well run, inexpensive and where the hot and bothers from KL come to cool down. It is surrounded by almost untouched jungle and the reputation as a Bird Watchers Paradise is well known.

There being only one taxi in what is effectively a series of 'resorts, the driver touted for the return journey (while I'll be touting for a lift back) there was now about 2 hours of daylight to find a hotel (not difficult) and have a wander.

The PUNCAK INN

fitted the bill perfectly and as I made my bid to check in I was approached by K.S. Durai the local Bird Guide. A most pleasant character who is good friends with former TV presenter and naturalist Tony Soper and has a CV as long as your arm. His first question "do you have a Field Guide" was met with a No as my East Asia book expires before here, to which he thrust a copy of Birds of South East Asia into my sticky mit. Next came the formidable Fraser's Hill Bird List, complete with 296 species to 2010, and a list of telephone numbers should I get stuck and a promise that he would contact me later.

For a little less than 22 quid B&B this is about the best value room I've had thus far, but having already logged HOUSE SWIFT, GLOSSY SWIFTLET, ASIAN PALM-SWIFT and PACIFIC SWALLOW I was more interested in getting out there.

Apart from the afore mentioned, it would be impossible to visit here without instantly getting

LONG-TAILED SIBIA

so the first 'Lifer' and from what Durai had told me by no means the last!

No, the 'second' came in the same amount of time, a 'second' with the rather fierce looking

JAVAN CUCKOOSHRIKE

being next to join the list. An ORIENTAL MAGPIE ROBIN put in a brief appearance as did some

Way-side Flowers before a cacophony of chatter drew me to a nearby tree. The chatter was that of a fine

male ORANGE-BELLIED LEAFBIRD

in company with almost as nicer looking

female.

It was considered a GREAT start given the amount of day-light left, and with even more flowers

these ARUM TYPE LILIES looking a treat, there was time to photograph

PACIFIC SWALLOW before going on to find what would effectively be the final bird of the day.

male LARGE NILTAVA and

female LARGE NILTAVA

If this had been a example of what can be seen just one hour before dusk, then I felt a sleepless night coming on once again. Cannot wait to follow some of Durai's suggestions and fell a return to the 'check-in' desk for a longer stay wont be too long in coming!

HUGE & JANET "I don't have your E-mail address - HELP"

River Deep, Mountain High - Ike & Tina Turner

A FAREWELL to the PHILIPPINES

Each day has begun and ended in the same way during my all too brief stay here, with a sky full of birds. Included in their ranks are Asian Palm-Swift, Philippine, Island & Glossy Swiftlet, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Barn, Pacific & Red-rumped Swallow etc.

No visit here would be complete without a visit to the Botanical Gardens, so that was my target today, but not before greeting the dawn 'on the bridge'.

It was thought at least 5 STRIPE-HEADED RHABDORNIS were present there today, with what seems sure to be

GREY-STREAKED FLYCATCHER

Again the services of a Jeepny were required, but thus far they had remained absent so, with only one reason for having a thumb on your hand as Marillion would say, "the habit of a windswept thumb and a sign of the rain".

First vehicle, driven by one of the Lecturers, kindly did the honours and dropped me outside of the gardens. 35 minutes too early for opening, I was sent on my way only to spot a large raptor circling over-head.

OSPREY

is always a welcome sight, wherever in the world, but with all the other possibilities here the sighting was tinged with a little disappointment.

Hardly had it disappeared behind the trees and another Bird of Prey flew over, this time a CHINESE GOSHAWK

To make up the 'prile', what must have been the same PHILIPPINE FALCONET was preening in the same tree.

A quick look around some of the Uni Buildings produced nothing else, so was glad to see the gates of the

swing open.

A quick look at the map and my 15 pence paid (see just throwing it away) I was in to a fantastic sight

of tall mature trees everywhere.

An Insect that probably of the Demoiselle Family was first to show followed by some background to the

ARBORETUM

There were lots of creatures and plants to be seen, but seemed very strange that there wasn't even a bird in song.

It was a full hour of wandering the winding paths during which time only 2 birds were seen, both of which were

GREY WAGTAIL

Taking a long look at hundreds of these 18 inch long seed pods, I noticed the gates to the Nursery were open and once again adopted the Banksy policy - " it is easier to get forgiveness than permission" - and wandered in. Doubtful the gates were to keep anybody out as the whole place had fallen to the forest, but it was interesting to find

what must have been, in its hey-day, a fine Field Station.

I would guess that 95% of the forest was in a natural state, augmented by a small number of other indigenous and endemic species, with these

WHITE LAUAN TREES

being of particular interest,

particularly some of the parasites which on closer inspection

looked to be positively 'man-made'. I've seen loads of necklaces looking like this,

but don't know about man-made Fungi?

THIS IS 'NOT' MY PHOTOGRAPH

but for such a bird thought some sort of illustration was a must. Initially caught out of the corner of my eye, a SCALE FEATHERED MALKOHA was flitting from tree to tree. While watch via bins for a full minute, there was never a hope of bringing the camera into focus. Nonetheless, a fabulous addition to the list and another 'endemic'.

As I started the extremely slippery downhill walk I mused as to how life and luck could change in a split-second, with hardly a bird all this way then the Malkoha. Still very aware of the conditions underfoot, that is when my feet shot from under me and I was on an even more slippery and steeper slope down the mountainside. While I didn't recognise it at the time, there was still 50 feet below me before meeting the river, but did have the presence of mind to grab a sapling. With every orafice (of the camera and binoculars I should quickly add) filled with loam, badly shaken and clinging on like a Sloth, what was needed was HELP! There hadn't been a sole thus far, but there is still "an ANGEL standing in the Sun", and out of the jungle walked

MY SAVIOURS

This Dutch gentleman and his Filipina girlfriend were right on cue, both quickly scrambling up the sheer bank to my aid. Bloody Lucky is how I would sum up this episode as a twisted left ankle plus bruised knee & calf, a couple of trouser tears and a few pounds of soil to cart around I was otherwise in fairly good shape!

Back at the river crossing, where most of the Insect action had taken place earlier, there was time to

take stock, assess the damage then get on with it! My biggest concern was what Rogerman (the Shoeshine Man in Vigan) was going to think about all his hard work?

Whether it was the minerals in the soil, I was now carting around, or the smell of 'fresh blood' but the Butterflies now started landing on me - quite novel!

A selection of those lovely creatures and

A FLOWER

before ending an eventful day with yet another TREE SPARROW and a bout of
'CLEANING STATIONS'.

Have been a little slack on the TOTALS of late, so here's the update:-

Trip Total - 236
Total Lifers - 92
Philippine Total Species - 84
Philippine Endemics - 20