Half Way To Paradise - Billy Fury

Trans-Atlantic Update

To be kind, the last 3 days since leaving Funchal, Madeira have been by and large barren with little in the way of wildlife and even less shipping. The weather has steadily improved during the passage with some bright and sunny periods, more prolonged as we have progressed, an almost continuous 15knots wind (direction variable) and light to moderate swell.

 Mooring ropes were slipped at 18:00 precisely on Saturday afternoon and having Dropped the Pilot (Joan Armatrading) the Captain set course for our next destination which was calculated to take 6 full days. No knowing what we might encounter crossing the Atlantic, the keener members of the wildlife brigade had binoculars pressed against eye-sockets during most hours of daylight.

 

Saying farewell to Funchal.

Leaving the 'over-sized' Cruise Ship 'AIDA' behind us.

Mist rolling down the mountains at the back of Funchal

It was a full 6 hours before the first bird was detected and only watched for a matter of minutes before what was considered a ‘Storm Petrel’ Sp (species) disappeared from view. That far out there was only the likelihood of it being European, Wilson’s, Leaches or Madeiran but with these tiny sea birds, about the size of the Common Starling, much more detail was needed. The next wait was less long, as within the hour I spotted a pod of 4 to 6 Pilot Whales close on the starboard quarter, albeit briefly, but as a Single Observer Sighting you know what that can lead to? There had been sporadic reports of ‘Whales’ from elsewhere during the day, most amusingly from the Choir practise area as one vocalist broke off and yelled “Whale” sending the whole group scurrying for the windows. Finally, what was the ‘miss of the day’ as the ships Carpenter found another ‘Storm Petrel’ resting under a rack of inflatable life rafts which he was able to catch. Not knowing the enormity of the find to some of us, he simply took it to the quarter deck, where most of the birders were standing, and released it. One lady did have the sense to shout ‘Bird’ as it took to the air allowing me at least time to zip off a few shots in the general direction for later analysis. 

From this, the only photographic evidence, we identified it as a LEACH'S STORM PETREL

Other than that, there was one more bird that could have been a juvenile Gannet or one of the larger Shearwaters for that matter but so far away as to be of no consequence.

 Monday dawned with the navigation lights of a large Freighter disappearing into the east, followed by a period of 8 hours of ‘empty ocean’ – need I say more? Talking of ‘more’, that is precisely what we got the next day with the odd cry of “Whale” which came to nought and the odd item of flotsam.

Tuesday was almost a carbon copy, except just before ‘close of play’ a small white bird was spotted following our wake at a distance. This turned out to be a most unexpected ‘first winter’ BLACK-HEADED GULL which, I for one, didn’t realise ventured this far out into the open ocean.

 Other than that we have a camera team on board, along with these 2 models preparing a new promotional magazine for Voyages of Discovery.

and we end with a 'Tasty Break' as ERIC the HEAD WAITER shows off what is only the food for afternoon tea! More of that if and when I have the time.

Madeira - Part III

Back in Funchal, Brian and Shelagh went off to the Mall to access the free Internet, catch up on e-mails and watch Man U dick their City rivals. Meanwhile, I would do some reminiscing and visit some of those places we enjoyed so much during our voyages on ETV Auricula.

GOVERNMENT OFFICES and

The BEATLES BOAT which most of the crew enjoyed on an almost nightly basis. Bought by the Fab 4 once the serious 'dosh' started rolling in, this fine vessel was soon abandoned here when they got fed up with the idea.

Some forward thinking individual bought it and gave it a permanent 'land' berth, built a watercourse around it, filled that with fish and turned the whole jolly lot into a really fun restaurant.

We didn't go to see the scantily clad waitresses in their crisp white mini-skirted uniforms, in fact someone told me that. No we were there for the beer, wine and singing and of course later in the evening the novelty ice creams served with burning 'sparklers'.

During the winter months, the water is drained from the 'fake lake' and there were few customers, but I do remember this place with great affection of great 'runs ashore'!

Little Red Corvette - Prince.

A sea-side cafe, and so into town.

Heading along the sea-front the Cruise Ship AIDA entered port, and oh how glad I was to be on the VOYAGER. As she started backing towards her berth, it was just as though someone had kicked an ant-hill as passengers came 'spewing' out from every doorway. Thousands of them, with barely space for them all - what did I tell you about 'Small Is Beautiful' at sea - Long Live VOYAGER!

Other items of interest before returning to the ship, where the dozens of BLACK CRABs

on the rocks of the Sea Wall,

with the sea 'alive' with fish of 5 different species, only one of which I could identify a GREY MULLET.

Other Fish, Crabs and Crayfish were not quite so lucky as the fate had already been decided by the restaurateur!

A small PORTUGUESE PATROL BOAT was seen leaving harbour, just before finding this fine fella on the rocks below.

A most obliging COMMON SANDPIPER was followed by a quick look at this replica
sailing ship

before perusing the marks left by previous visiting ships on the sea-wall. At 18:00 we sailed for our next destination - Talk Soon!

Please note:- Clocks are changing here almost on a daily basis resulting in 'late' (for UK) publications!

Madeira - Part II

Continuing down hill, more small hamlets with their neat little houses

as we also noted our second, and much more obliging, BUTTERFLY.

This FUNGUS clad Tree Stump got 99 for Artistic Impression but was well outdone by this

male BLACKCAP feeding on Pyrocantha Berries

THISTLE while up ahead

the tiny church in the village of ASSOMADA.

One of the 'WHITES'

and an example of the beautiful street signs.

Blue Morning Glory? Who knows but no doubting the little fella up that tree.

Not at all complementary to the MADEIRAN FIRECREST, another Sub-species, this photograph is nowhere near as good as looking at it through the bins!

More hillside fields as we rounded a bend to find the only bus of the day bearing down on us. Still 20 or so 'clicks' from Funchal we stuck our hand out more in hope than anything else, as the driver squealed to a halt.

Yes, he was going to the capital but better still he would drop us at the Botanical Gardens, his passengers being more than helpful on the way.

Not a lot in the way of bird-life here, except for what we had already seen, but excellent gardens and a huge system of aviaries dedicated in the main to Parrots.

Of these, DERBYAN PARAKEET was of most interest and worth of a shot even if only to dedicate to Dave (Parrotface) Penney, as being from China and Mongolia and of which none of us had ever been aware of.

The views from here were also magnificent with some of the Islands tunnel entrances in view

along with the 'mighty' VOYAGER waiting to take us to our next destination after a sumptuous dinner on board.

Finally, there was a meeting with one of Lonesome George's mates before we took a taxi back to town.

At this time and date, we are in fact mid-Atlantic where any action has been 'thin on the ground'. There have been one or 2 highlights which I will publish in a 'round-up' later in the week.