'Birding' Santiago

Santiago is, by comparison with most South America capital cities, ver small. That also goes for the 'tourist center' which appears less than a square mile. That may not be a bad thing this year, as like other places along the way numbers of visitors have been much reduced. However, my main objective this morning was making an early start at the Parque Metropolitano de Santiago, a wooded area I knew nothing about. Again at 06-30 I was listening for new sounds and calls, the most distinctive and numerous coming from flocks of Austral Blackbird, a species I hadn't seen previously.The same can be said for a lone Tufted Tit-Tyrant that put in a brief appearance, but not long enough to capture the image. It was good to start the day with a brace of 'lifers', but next came a conundrum, while out of range according to this book, I feel the Thrushes I was recording were Slaty, with very few being the resident Chiguanco, so until otherwise convinced I'll stick with the first option (good opportunity to get the 'Thrushes book out Dave!). Breakfast starts at 09-00 and while that wasn't the most important consideration of the day, I did restrict myself to the lower level of the Parque albeit a good number of steps above street level. There I found 2 raptors that for now remain unidentified, along with 3 California Quail and a pair of Chamango Caracara, while somewhere in the distance there was the raucous chatter of Parrots. The day had started very well!

After 2 slices of toast and a cup of coffee, advertised as breakfast, I was back again this time to take the funicular to even higher ground. Up in 'the gods' there was precious little sign of any life let alone birds, and as the day got hotter and I followed the long and winding road it seemed like I had returned to a different place. In my customary 'navigator' way I took a wrong turning and when reaching the bottom of the hill found I was 2Km from where I wanted to be. Front and center a Fast Black. Seemingly more expensive here, especially when you get seen off, the fare was £2, but worth it as one, the day was now roasting and twp, the Parrots were calling close by. A gang of about 30 Monk Parakeets awaited me. and if my memory serves this is the only Psittacine that builds a nest and does so communally? After a lunch of fine Chilean beef steak, mashed potato and coffee I spent the rest of the day lazing. Where I am staying is in the heart of Boogieville and despite the ear plugs the 'war drums' could still be heard at 04-30.

Never mind, a new day tomorrow and one in which I mean to branch out and try a real adventure. If it comes off it should be a great moment in my travelling life, if it doesn't, nothing ventured nothing gained!

WATCH THIS SPACE!

'Lists Update'

GOLDEN-SPOTTED GROUND-DOVE*

WHITE-WINGED CINCLODES*

ANDEAN HILLSTAR*

PUNA MINER*

LESSER (PUNA) RHEA*

GIANT COOT

AMERICAN GOLDEN PLOVER

BURROWING OWL

PERUVIAN THICK-KNEE*

AUSTRAL BLACKBIRD*

TUFTED TIT-TYRANT*

CHIMANGO CARACARA

CINERIOUS HARRIER

MONK PARAKEET

SLATY THRUSH*

CHILEAN MOCKINGBIRD*

PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND-DOVE

CHILEAN SWALLOW*

CALIFORNIA QUAIL

WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA*

CINERIOUS HARRIER

Trip Total - 845
World Lifers - 554
Endemics - 57


Andean Hillstar nest, unfortunately the parent birds were not seen to return.

Overlooking Santiago, Chile

Parque Metropolatano de Santiago

White-crested Elaenia

showing a little more of its usually hidden treasures.

Being claimed, until further checks are made

as Slaty Thrush

The streaking on the throat points to Slaty Thrush

California Quail (male)

California Quail (female)

You said I'd have another Dave and here it is (also species as predicted). Just as a matter of interest, this is also on my Derbyshire List, as Andy Lindsay and I 'clocked' one when Barbel fishing on the Derwent some years ago!

Monk Parakeet - back

front

and center

Chilean Mockingbird

Austral Blackbird

Plain-breasted Ground-Dove

Unidentified Raptors

if anyone can help,

it would be very useful.

Thank You!

Eduardo Rosencruz ???? to 2006

This one remains unidentified, but still working on it. Found near Arica yesterday there seems to be nothing like it in the book - what is it Daragh?

With very few choices of transport, I decided to 'bite the bullet' and do the full 2,300 'clicks' to Santiago in a oner, stopping off briefly to fulfill a mission I'd promised myself if I should ever venture this way. A 'luxury' coach, as they call them, would have been ideal with huge front parlor like seats and slightly closer attention, but I'd made my play and would have to put up with what was thrown at me! A 14-00 departure gave me little time to get back to the hotel to collect my things, and make a point of saying farewell to a staff who had really taken to, and helped me, but I was there in good time for the delayed 15-00. Seats double banked and the coach full, I was ready for a deal of discomfort, but as it turned out they were comfortable seats with ample leg room, excellent A/C and a reasonable Steward service, except for the victuals which were a little Sparta. Deciding to kill a little time by starting a 'birds seen for the coach' list (what else?), it started well with House Sparrow, Pacific Dove and Turkey Vulture but that was IT for the next 6 hours as darkness fell. It was inevitable sleep would come slowly, and by mid-night I was still shuffling around in my seat, but that was the last I remembered until 09-00 as we pulled into Santa Rosa Bus Terminal, one of just 5 stops on the way, and right outside a coffee shop. I was happy to get out, enjoy a favorite early morning beverage, then climb back aboard for the next leg. The terrain for what seemed like the whole distance barely changed, with desert of one description or the other being the main feature. Sometimes stark and arid, others boulder strewn and occasionally sparsely vegetated, the only change seemed to be the distance away from the mountains (some snow covered) and high hills. Despite being a coastal road, there were very few glimpses of the Pacific and what habitation there was only amounted to a few broken down old steadings.

Anyway, one thing that did come from this trip, apart from getting me where I wanted to be, breaking the previous record of a single journey on the same vehicle. 21 hours was the figure to overtake, as Mike Hughes and I ventured from the Paraguayan capital Asuncion to Buenos Aries, Argentina in 2003. Then, the countryside was a good deal more eye-catching as we passed hundreds of miles of the Pampas and through thePalm Fields of cattle country.

The beautiful sea-side city of Valparaiso perches, literally, on the edge of the Ocean, and was the birthplace and home, for many years, of my (and everyone else's) GREAT rig mate Eduardo Rosencruz, colloquially known as Eddie the Night Baker. Ed was one of the most personable individuals it was ever my pleasure to rub shoulders with, and I can state, without fear of contradiction, that would go for every Core Crew member on the Buchan Alpha. Eddie was a Chef extraordinaire, but his 'baking' was legendary across the North Sea. However, even that was surpassed by his cheerful, obliging nature nothing ever being too much trouble. Any Buccaneer could tell you endless stories about him and his Chelsea Bus, Dutch Pastries, Cinnamon Cakes etc, but above all his bread, which rarely got to the table as the Shite Hawks pounced (no disrespect meant).

My favourite story, involved a none too slim woman who worked on the rig and to be honest not the prettiest 'rose in the bowl'. Entering the galley ay 04-00 to get my routine 'fresh baked 'egg and bacon banjo (quick release at turn of the shift to go birding), I threw Eddie a usual Que Pasa (what's up), he replying in his normal fashion, F**k All! Thinking to throw him a curve I casually said "eh Ed would you have sex with the woman concerned"? quick as a flash he replied "only in an emergence", which sent me into fits of laughter which still exist today.

To all our loss, Eddie became seriously ill in 2006 and past away after a bad time in hospital. I, like many others, visited him in the Aberdeen Infirmary, and to see a once fit man waste away like that was tragic. After he died I made that promise to myself and today I fulfilled it. Just sitting on a bench for a few minutes I just wanted to make sure Eddie had made it home. A message to those readers on the Buchan 'A' (I know there are a few) he's there, looks happy and is flying around with the Seagulls. RiP Eddy the Night Baker.

My intention now is to bird the park for maybe one or two days, dependant on the birdlife after which I have a 'side-track' project that I'm going to chase up, but more of that later.

Finally today, I arrived in Santiago after 29 hours on the coach but cannot complain of a bad trip, in fact it was much more comfortable than I could have hoped. At the Coach Station the Tourist Information soon fixed me up with a map and assured me there would be plenty of Aves in Central Park manana. This had been my hope all along and seeing that the taxis were controlled from a booth were the price was agreed and you were allocated a cab also pleased me. That way there can be no questions at the destination and everybody leaves happy. Unfortunately, this was not the case tonight, as we reached the street the tourist lady had suggested chiefy, the driver, asked for 5,000 peso, a 'fiver'. To cut a long story short I summoned a motorcycle copper, who after a long haggle which only those 2 understood it was decided I had to pay up again. So, no matter how seasoned a traveller you may think you are someone will get you some how. On the up side he had put me down right outside what in UK you would call a quaint Victorian town house, where the room including breakfast is just £15, so all's well that ends well.

PS

There is one hell of a curse on that 5,000 'sobs' so he'd better be careful how he spends it!

Golden-spotted Ground-Dove, here's one that nearly slipped the net. The Golden-spot is clearly visible but overlooked as crap on the lens, one born every minute? TICK!

Andean Duck, some still say it's Ruddy and who am I to say? TICK years ago?

Heading South

Time to move on again with the aim of reaching Santiago (2,100Km) in the next few days. Arica has been a great place to spend a little time but all of a sudden days seem at a premium, so gotta move! Don't know when I'll get access again so for now here are a few photos to keep you going.

White-winged Cinclodes

Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch

and for those who seem not to be getting enough Mammals (Nick), despite Ocelot earlier, here are a few.

Southern Viscacha

Vicuna the smallest of the Llama family

Alpaca is third largest, but couldn't get a photo of Guanaco (the next down in size)

and finally, Llama. This one is a truly 'wild' beat as can be told from the red and white outer ear coverts, there you've learnt something new today!

Reserve National Humedal, Arica, Chile

I must say that in line with most other places, the lady on the desk and the Night Porter at my latest hotel have been so very helpful. Seeing my Field Guide, they suggested after Lauca, Humedal might be a good place to visit. On the Web-Site it is described as Reserve National Humedal and the accompanying photographs show boardwalks and small wooden bridges reflecting into cobalt blue waters, while in reality it is a run down coastal fringe topped up with junk and litter. Nevertheless, there are similarities with Burton Bradstock (a coastal site west of Weymouth, often good for birds for the none Dorsetite's among you) with several small lagoons protected by a shingle beach on one side, and sand dunes plus small stands of reed throughout its length. The other feature of Humedal is just about the whole area is covered by a thick plant growth that I can only describe as terrestrial 'Parrot Feathers', so similar is it to the aquatic growth. A main road runs a few hundred meters from the lagoons and beach, which appeared devoid of traffic when I arrived at 07-00 this morning, but later discovered it to be a 'dead end'. Between that and another road, forming a V and going back in the same direction, there is waste ground main use 'fly-tipping' where there are a few shrubs.

I had arranged for the Porter to get me a taxi, but would have to forgo breakfast due to the earliness of the hour, wanting to reach this site by dawn. I arrived in the foyer at 06-30 not only to find the taxi on 'stand-by' but also a breakfast awaiting (including coffee) perfect start. About 15Km from town, the fare was £3 which I didn't pay as the arrangement was for him to pick me up at noon, when the sun just becomes too much. He was happy, I was happy.

Andean Coot

Black-crowned Night Heron (adult)

It wasn't difficult to see many birds from where he put me down, but on a quick scan it was seen that all were familiar and already on the list. The open waters of the lagoons had their share of Andean Coot and a variety of Gulls, while in the margins the odd Greater Yellowlegs, Spotted Sandpiper, Snowy Egret and a Moorhen were feeding. Returning to the road, to seek higher ground when approaching any of the many small streams running to the sea, there were many Black-crowned Night Heron (adults and juveniles), American Oystercatcher and, maybe fair to say 'not before time', an American Golden Plover. Apart from Rufous-collared Sparrow, only 2 other passerines were seen and both are in the pending file awaiting identification.

Cinereous Conebill

Crossing the road onto the wasteland, it was easy to coax Cinerious Conebills from cover, but unfortunately a fine pair of Band-tailed Sierra-Finch, showing their bright yellow legs and bills evaded the Canon. Scanning across the area, a small bird of prey was seen perched on a round white stone, but at that distance too far to photograph or ID for that matter. Needing to get the sun behind me, I started to walk a wide arc when something else caught my eye. There in a clearing among the undergrowth stood a whole bevy of Peruvian Thick-knees, 9 to be precise. This was considered a huge bonus, and I still had my eye on the potential raptor, that might be American Kestrel. Despite having seen good numbers of them, I just love this little bird of prey so thought it well worth the chase, but the overall appearance was changing as I got nearer. Eventually, it sometimes takes a little time in these matters, it dawned on me that it was in fact a Burrowing Owl, another species that maybe should have been added to the Trip List long ago. Maybe the most common Owl in the Americas and certainly one of the easiest to see, being diurnal, at last it was going in the log. But there was more to come as I picked up on 2 more further on, and on close approach found a family party of seven.

Peruvian Thick-knee

Peruvian Thick-knees

Burrowing Owl

a long time coming, (look closely you'll see all 7)

but at this range well worth the wait.

The sun was high now, time rapidly approaching noon and still an hour walk back to the starting place. On the way back I found a pretty dowdy Peruvian Meadowlark, but managed this photo so no complaints, and one of the many Turkey Vultures at perch. Seems like this youngster wasa waiting for mum or dad to return with a dead dog or something. All in all this was a pretty good site, so tomorrow I may return and try for some Gulls in flight shots.

Peruvian Meadowlark, still thought by some to be a sub-species of Long-tailed Meadowlark.

Numero Uno juvenile Turkey Vulture

and a close up of and adult birds head, that should be full of groceries!

Four Seasons in One Day

Firstly, 1,000 apologies for not making the deadline yesterday, but despite burning 3 cubes of 'midnight oil', at the witching hour some fool decided to disconnect the router!

and to clear up another small matter, this is the raptor, struggling with a plastic bag, that remained unidentified on 26/01/10. It is of course a juvenile Mountain Caracara, but have to say the brief look at its dad earlier was far more dramatic.

Well, I made it at what was thought to be 15-00 yesterday but in fact, and to my surprise, they are 2 hours ahead of Arequipa here, which is almost directly north, so must have something to do with daylight saving? The formalities at both sides of the border were very slick as all has changed since the last time. Now, a whole new complex, both stations (Peru & Chile) within 200 meters of each other and special lanes for coaches, buses, cars, pedestrians etc, most impressed. The only shortfall was the guy who was suppose to be meeting me with an onward ticket didn't show up, surprise, surprise but I'd opted for the collectivo so only lost a little under £2, a little 'shoplifting' will soon redress that!

With no tours to Lauca National Park on Monday, once again it was Hobson's and so I got the lady at the hotel desk to book me for today. I was outside at 07-20 with a potential pick up 10 minutes later and despite being right in the middle of town to pass the time I tried a little 'pishing'. Immediately, 6 Rufous-collared Sparrows and a Cinereous Conebill appeared from nowhere, and whether by skill or coincidence so did a Hummingbird, which had a nest on a bare branch right above my head. With no time to further that, identification will have to wait until later but once again I suspect it to be Andean Hillstar?

A dozen of us, all Chilean except for 2 Parisian lads and myself, was a comfortable number, while our guide, Benjamin Araya, and driver were among the best I've ever been with. I had taken this tour before, in 2003, and with very few exceptions it followed exactly the same route with more or less the same stops. First of these was to view the 1,000 year old 'sand dune carvings' which due to the constant weather have stood the test of time. It was also at this very spot that L first saw Peruvian Meadowlark, and almost as if to order another turned up right on time. A little further up the hill we stopped at the tiny church where all my fellow travelers headed while I looked around at a couple of dozen House Sparrows, a male Vermilion Flycatcher and an American Kestrel, although my main interest was in a caged Parrot that kept shouting Ola, Ola at the top of its voice.

Golden-billed Ground-Dove

Between here and the 3,000 meter level we stopped at a couple of view points, one of which is shown in the following 3 photographs.

The next port of call was to view Candelabra Cactus which, according to our host, only grows between 2 & 4,000 meters and is 'endemic' if you like to the few miles of this terrain either side of the Peru / Chile border. There were of course other kinds of cactus, but the one further down remained unnamed.

Candelabra Cactus

Another type of Cactus.

By now we were making noticeable altitude as part filled plastic water bottles started to compress and eardrums started to fill. Que for a stop at the local canteena where I among others enjoyed a couple of local chees rolls and a couple of cups of Coca Tea, said to help with the effects of altitude. It was also said that the tea is good for rheumatism, but I feel a little seen off as I suffered 3 cups in all but don't have any signs of rheumatism yet! Next on the agenda was an example of the earth's magnetic pull, where a large bottle of water was placed in the middle of the tarmaced road and started rolling uphill. If this was a 'trick', it was a bloody good un, but look as I may could see no 'trick of the eye', hidden strings or any sign of Paul Daniels, it really was quite amazing.

One of only 2 'lifers' today, Puna Miner

By 4,000 meters we had left the canyons, dunes and lush valleys behind, while ahead we were begining to see the Lake Lands surrounded by their volcanic sentinals. Coupled with an abundance of birdlife, plus a few mammals I have to admit to being quite overcome. A state that is all too infrequent, just sitting in total silence, at one with the natural surroundings, indescribable views and uncontrollable tears rolling down your face. The only other times I remember feeling like this before have been, Antarctica, Iguassu Falls, Mongolia's mountain Steppe, Angkor Wat and the Western Desert, Australia. Already from the moving bus I could see Flamingos and was desperately hoping for another stop.

Buena Vista

Stop we did, but out exit was blocked by an over enthusiastic Llama which was obviously more than used to 'tourists' and hell bent on getting into the bus for the tit-bits, payment for the upcoming photo call. Me, I was out and gone to the lakeside where the 'lanky pink jobs' all turned out to be Chilean but there was much better to view in the further distance. Unfortunately out of camera range, but eminently viewable where 3 Lesser Rhea, the South American and smaller cousin of the Sudan (African) Ostrich, the second of the day and one of the most exciting 'lifers' of the trip. No need to look for too much detail and size would only be relevant if 'Greater' were by its side, the larger of the 2 species of Rhea rarely, if ever, venture this far west.

Black-hooded Sierra-Finch

Climing to 4,880 meters, the highest altitude we would reach today, we came to Lago Chungara, for the present silently watched over by Vulcan Parinacota, which was teaming with birds. Most were the same as I have witnessed previously except no sign of the tens of thousands of Wilson's Phalarope, but on the credit side there was Giant Coot. This is a bird we (Mike Hughes and I) had eaten at Lake Titicaca on our last trip, with many split open, disemboweled and lying in the sun to dry, just what the doctor ordered. Today I was just happy to take a few photographs, but again no sign of either Andean or Puna (James's) Flamingos.

A 'near endemic' in front of the 6,330 meter high Parinacota Volcano

Giant Coot

Our final visit before dinner, and a diversion from the last tour, was a visit to the tiny Andean village of Do Leo, Parinacota. I doubt there have been many changes here since the small church was built in the 1790's and the friezes painted on completion. While flash photography was only allowed at the naive end there was sufficient light to capture most of the beauty of the wall paintings. At this point we were just 1Km from Bolivia, and 10K from Argentina.

We descended to the small town of Putre, inhabitants 3,000, half of which are Military Personnel stationed at the Army Base, in very slow time and surely at the cost of a set of brake linings? Being the main road from Arica to La Paz, Bolivia there was much in the way of heavy traffic, but for just once here in South America everyone had the sense to take speed easy. A table had already been prepared for our small party, withe a locally grown salad and fresh baked bread awaiting. This was followed by a choice of Chicken or Alpaca and I'm sure most regular readers will guess my option! While on the 'Clapometer' the worst day of this trip would score a resounding 'Very Good', I think today has been the best. All aspects of nature overwhelming, company as good as anyone could wish, and my personal repartee with Ben reached great heights. So much so, I have been invited to his house, in the main because we seem to be like minded people, but feel there is a small side issue. Ben tells me his 14 year old son is suffering an acute bout of Beatlemania and would welcome a visit by anyone from England, even though I have only been to Bootle and Liverpool once each. However, the stakes were raised even further when I told him of my acquaintance with my mate Robbie McIntosh, who played guitar on the McCartney's 'Wings' world tour. Unfortunately, with his work commitments and the fact I cannot stay here for ever it may not happen, but what a gesture?

As if to 'rubber stamp' the day, I walked out of the restaurant to find Spot-winged Pigeon on the roof opposite, and

Bare-eyed Ground-Dove just a little further up the road.

Don't know who that 'stone-faced' geezer in the middle is, but he's got a good looking lad either side of him!

So, What's all this about Crowded House? Well, when we left the arid coastal strip this morning the sun was already shining, there wasn't a cloud in the sky and the temperature gauge in the city square showed 22C. As we passed through the lush valley at lower elevation, the temprature dropped slightly, but all around us the maize, alfalfa, sugarcane etc was just sprouting in the fields and there was even a short April shower. Sipping coca tea a hundred meters os so higher, the few deciduous trees there were shedding leafs, maize had been harvested with the yellowing storks remaining in the ground. As will be noted from the picture of that beautiful little church, the sky was already looking angry and a few moments later there was a dramatic fall of hail, followed by some light snow. All of this was a phenomena I had not experienced before. In short - '4 Seasons in One Day' - long live the Finn Brothers.

and if you needed a Cherry on a metaphoric cake that would slake Billy Bunter's greed, try these 3 little beauties for size!

Andean Gulls close up!